> 5 


*> > 
> 

5 

) 
-> ' 


3> > 


> 
> 


3> > 


.y 


» -> 


> 


p :> 


> 


5> > 
> 3 


> 


5> > 


> 


> > 


> 


!> 


> 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



t~%&\ 



%v W x^'^a 

' Shelf. :.§.4AWS 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 









LSI. Barbara 



TOPOGRAPHY, 

CLIMATE, 

RESOURCES, 

A N 1) 



Published by the 
INDEPENDENT PUBLISHING CO. 

Santa Barbara, Cal. 




Hitta 



arhra m It 



%. 



TOPOGRAPHY, 

CLIMATE, 

RESOURCES, 



|!33pil(Da.'3 JD_£ |! ISS^^M^aa^ 




Published by the 
INDEPENDENT PUBLISHING CO., 

Santa Barbara, Cal. 



:>***- 



Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1884, by 
MARY C. F. HALL-WOOD, (1^*/ 

in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at "Washington, D. C. 



f«TtP| 



'Rc-fal 



INDEX 



Page. 

Access, Means of „ 20 

Address, Agricultural 94 

Arlington 50 

A?; the Fair(Poern) 101 

Burton Mound 52 

Carpinteria, 30 

CasitasPass 62 

City, Santa Barbara 23 

Climate 13 

Pairying 89 

Debt , 22 

Dr. Dimmick 7u 

Ell wood 35 

Ferns 67 

Fisheries 92 

Flora 63 

Game 02 

Oaviota Pass 02 

Geology ,., 70 

Glen Annie 85 

Goleta 33 

Historical 7 

Hogs ss 

Hollister's 34 

Honey 82 

Horses 87 

Hot Springs ; i 

Indian Remains 68 

Indian Village 58 

Industries, Miscellaneous 8B 

Introductory 5 

Jesus Maria.,.,,,,,, 4} 



Page. 

Lake Fenton 58 

La Patera 33 

Lemons 7S 

Lighthouse, Mesa 57 

Lima Beans 79 

Lompoc 39 

Los Alamos. 43 

Mission, Santa Barbara 50 

Mission Canyon 59 

Mollusca 60 

Montecito 28 

Mountain Trails 59 

Objects of Interest 49 

Ojai 62 

Olive Culture 79 

Paleontology 70 

point Concepcion 3u 

Population 22 

Poultry m 

Punta del Castillo 19 

Ranchos (Table) 12 

San Julian 42 

s in MfircosPass oi 

Santa Rita 42 

Santa Maria 40 

Santa Yncz 37 

School Districts 22 

Sea Mosses 54 

Sevi n Falls 5Q 

Surf Bathing 51 

Topography 9 

EJpperSanta Ynez 61 

Wool Growing 93 




i 



X 



1 



INTRODUCTORY. 

A 

*^i?X presenting this brief description to the public, our aim is not 
so much to lavish poetic praises upon an "Earthly Par- 
adise," as to gather into convenient and consistent shape 
the practical details of soil, agriculture, climate and socie- 
ty, which will answer the questions naturally asked by tour- 
ists or intending settlers. 
Although much has been written about Santa Barbara, good, bad 
and indifferent, we feel that there is still something to be said; that 
the new material, together with a condensed statement of all that has 
been previously noted, may yet find interested leaders. Still, we enter 
with diffidence upon the task, aiming onty to present to our readers a 
resume of Santa Barbara's natural gifts and advantages, her hotels, 
schools and societies, her fauna and flora, her mineral and agricultural 
wealth. 

We have drawn largely upon whatever was of definite value in 
other publications. We are also greatly indebted to certain gentlemen 
to whom credit will be given in the proper place, whose names are of 
recognized authority upon the subjects whereof they individually treat. 
Within the limited space allowed, our only object is to present 
such a picture of Santa Barbara that the most enthusiastic reader 



SANTA BAEBAEA COfNTY. 



sliall not be tempted to exclaim, how delightful! — but rather, how true, 
how plain, how accurate! 

The exact truth about Santa Barbara is enough, and more than 
enough. Exaggerations injure us in large measure. Leading the 
stranger to expect but a single ray of sunshine more than he finds, 
renders him discontented with the most genuine of fair facts. But 
when all is said, the real glory of the land, its* gentle and gracious 
atmosphere, cannot be explained to a northern ear. One must live in 
it, be thoroughly steeped in it, to love it as its native races do. The 
old saying, applied to many other pleasant places on the earth's surface, 
is particularly true of this : " Whoever has lived in it a year, is sure 
to come back to it at last." 

" It is not your mountains, or magical chain 

Of islands dim purple, nor even the sea, 

With gay racing billows by day, and by night 

His monotone chant to uncomforted souls ; 

Not these,, but the spirit of these, but the breath, 

The reviving, the incomprehensible air, 

That we breathe in and live in and love till we die !" 



M. C. F. Hall-Wood. 




Santa 'Barbara County, 

FROM 1542 TO 1884. 



A BRIEF HISTORICAL SKETCH. 



CHAPTER I. 

Jyty^HE earliest authentic record of Santa Barbara is found in the nar- 
jLAJ^ rative of Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, a Portuguese navigator in 
the service of Spain, -who, on the 27th day of June, 15-12, just fifty 
years after the landing of Christobal Colon on the island of San Sal- 
vador, sailed northward ffrom the western coast of Mexico, with two 
vessels, the San Salvador and the Victoria. He passed through the 
channel of Santa Barbara, observing upon the islands a dense popula- 
tion, "men and women of fair complexion." He claims to have spent 
months among the natives of what is now Santa Barbara county, and 
notes the names of forty populous villages on the mainland. After 
voyaging up the coast, Cabrillo returned, landing upon San Miguel 
island, where he died and was buried. All traces of his last resting- 
place have long since been obliterated by the shifting sands. Sixty 
years later, Sebastian Vizcaino, commanding a Spanish fleet, re-dis- 
covered the channel and named it "Canal de Santa Barbara," presum- 
ably because it was reached upon the 4th of December. 

Three hundred years ago, these valleys supported a swarming 
population. Its soil freely supplied nuts and wild fruits. Game 
abounded on the land and fish in the channel. The simple and indo- 
lent aborigines wore no clothing worth mentioning. All their necessi- 
ties were furnished by a fertile soil with little labor, and their days 
were passed in calm security and animal comfort. At long intervals 
strange ships appeared in the roadstead. Strange [men landed, pro- 
cured supplies and sailed away. Gradually, it became known to the 



8 



SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 



brawny rovers who sailed under the victorious banners of Spain, that 
California was not an island and not a peninsula, that the great river 
to the north did not connect with the Atlantic Ocean, and that neither 
the Isles of the Amazons nor the seven cities of Cibola lay in this di- 
rection. 

The strangers continued to come, encroaching more and more 
upon the territory of the simple inhabitants, until this primitive race 
slowly faded away before the resistless rovers. Their day had reached 
its twilight one hundred years ago, when the Catholic religion and 
the Spanish arms had gained a firm foothold upon the Pacific Coast. 

The first efforts of Christian civilization in this county were made 
by the Franciscan friars. The Mission of Santa Barbara was estab- 
lished in 1786, the eleventh in p>oint of time among the Missions of 
California ; that of San Diego, in 1769, being the first. After a few 
years of toil and privation the Holy Fathers began to grow in power 
and opulence. They were the temporal as well as the spiritual lords 
of the land. They cultivated, by the hands of their Indian converts, 
the olive, the fig and the vine, enjoying all the luxuries of a genial 
climate and a generous soil that this great and costless labor could 
produce. The whole race of natives were in fact serfs whose toil was 
repaid by spiritual blessings. Until 1830 the Fathers held undisputed 
sway. Missions were established all down the coast, making a close 
cordon from San Francisco to San Diego. In this county the Mission 
la Purisima was established in 1787 ; that of Santa Ynez in 1804. 

From the year 1800 Anno Domini to 1822, (when the Spanish 
dominion was finally overthrown in Mexico.) were the halcyon days 
of the Mission system. The Fathers dwelt in patriarchal state ; with 
regal revenues and powers. In 1825, it is recorded that the Mission 
of Santa Barbara possessed 75,000 cattle, 5,000 tame horses and mules. 
and 40,000 sheep. 

But this also passed away. Mexico was in a chaotic, transitional 
state, — hurrying from revolution to revolution. Every new govern- 
ment sent new plunderers to loot the wealthy Missions. Finally, in 
1833, the Mexican Government took possession of the Missions, and 
the greater number of them were allowed to fall into ruins. Only 
the Missions of Santa Ynez and Santa Barbara were retained by the 
Franciscans. After the priestly dominion was followed bj the mili- 
tary and civil rule of Mexico, now independent of Spain, Santa 
Barbara became a place of importance. Here certain Governors of 
the province resided, and here were held Departmental Assemblies, 
until the time of Pio Pico, in 1846, the last of the old time Governors. 
In 1841 Los Angeles was the largest town in the Californias, and Santa 
Barbara and San Francisco were of equal size. 

In 1846, the question of annexing California to England was dis- 



SANTA BAEBABA COUNTY. 



cussed and decided negatively in an Assembly convened in Santa 
Barbara. 

Then in 1849, came the grand event of the Pacific Coast ; the 
discovery of gold. In the mad rush for sudden wealth, which drew 
the adventurous of all classes into its seething vortex, Southern Cali- 
fornia was almost abandoned. New centres of wealth and population 
were formed as if by magic. For twenty years this portion of the 
State lay in its golden sunlight, smiling and unknown. Rumors then 
began to spread of an unparalleled climate below Point Concepcion. 
Straggling invalids made their way here and wrote back ecstatic- 
accounts of balmy, delicious airs and everlasting sunshine. In 1872, 
along with a crowd of health see&ers from all parts of the United 
States, came Charles Nordhoff, an experienced journalist, whose en- 
thusiasm and ardent praises awakened an unbounded interest in all 
parts of our common country, spreading even to Europe. The inhab- 
itants of Santa Barbara awoke one morning and found their cherished 
valley famous! 

From 1872 to 1875, nothing less than insanity ruled. Prices of 
property advanced, doubled, quadrupled! It was in those days that 
the country and climate were puffed out of all reason. Consumptives 
in the last stages of the disease thronged the streets and the hotels. 
Even private houses were filled with ghastly guests who ought never 
to have left their homes. The inevitable crash came, following on 
the heels of the Eastern panic, — and this was a ruined community. 

In time, business recovered its tone, slowly but surely. The old 
enthusiasm gave way to a more even growth, and to-day Santa Bar- 
bara can boast of a solid and steady prosperity beyond the reach 
of any ordinary panic. 



CHAPTER II. 



TOPOGRAPHY. 

SrcrjftHE County of Santa Barbara, roughly stated, is in shape a par- 
j^Ai; allelogram, bordered on the south and west by the Pacific ocean, 
on the north by San Luis Obispo County and on the east by Ventura 
County. The southern side of the parallelogram, nearly sixty miles 
in length, begins at Point Concepcion, where the coast suddenly trends 
to the eastward, and ends at Point Rincon, when it again assumes a 
southeasterly course. An extra depression in the coast line just where 
the city of Santa Barbara is situated, curves in so deeply that the 
frontage of the city itself has decidedly a southeastern aspect, its 
streets thereby running diagonally across from the cardinal points of 
the compass, from northeast to southwest and from northwest to 
southeast. 



10 



SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 



From Point Concepcion to the northern edge of the county is a 
distance of about thirty-five miles, as the crow fiias; but on this west- 
ern border of our parallelogram, Point Argnello, Point Purisima and 
Point Sal reach out into the Pacific, more or less boldly. 

A large portion of Santa Barbara County is covered with mountain 
ranges. Parallel with the southern shore and the Santa Barbara 
Channel with its outlying islands, rise the rugged heights of Santa 
Ynez. These traverse the county from west to east, a solid [range, 
from 3,000 to 4,000 feet high. Beyond the Santa Ynez, the San 
Rafael range lies, running in a northwesterly direction, almost at 
right angles. Beyond these again to the northeast, the irregular peaks 
of the Coast Bange combine to form a wild melange of mountains, 
onl} r broken by the valleys of the Cuyama. The greater part of this 
northeastern quarter is set down upon official maps as unsurveyed 
Government land. Yet among these inaccessible heights are many 
narrow valleys, canons and canadas, watered by mountain springs, 
pleasant and fertile; occupied by adventurous settlers and traversed 
by intrepid hunters or the still more intrepid prospector, in search of 
mineral wealth. 

Between the Santa Ynez and the sea lies the unparalleled valley 
of Santa Barbara. It is about forty-five miles in length, averaging 
perhaps three miles in width. It contains a matter of some 86,400 
acres of land. It is this belt which has become noted the world over 
for its semi-tropical climate and phenomenal fertility. 

The valley of Santa Barbara proper, extending from the Bincon 
to Point Concepcion, comprises the valley of the Carpinteria, from 
the Bincon to a small spur of the Santa Ynez called Ortega hill, a dis- 
tance of about nine miles; the Montecito, from Ortega hill to the 
city limits, some six miles; the city of Santa Barbara itself , occupying 
a space fully two miles square and still reaching out on all sides; and 
eight miles beyond, the small village of Goleta. Beyond Goleta, 
still following the broad avenue, the great ranchos of Hollister and 
Cooper, Los Dos Pueblos, Nuestra Senora del Befugio, and other 
ranchos brings the traveler to the Gaviota Pass, and a few miles be- 
yond the Pass, Point Concepcion. Here the Santa Y»nez range runs 
bodily into the Pacific Ocean, and the valley of Santa Barbara comes 
to an abrupt termination. 

Beyond the Santa Ynez range, beginning near the eastern edge of 
the county, slowly opens between the Santa Ynez and San Bafael 
ranges the lovely valley of the Santa Ynez. The Santa Ynez river, 
running almost due west from its mountain source, parallel with the 
islands, the channel, Santa Barbara valley and the Santa Ynez moun- 
tains, waters a wide extent of agricultural lands, and near its mouth 
runs through the broad valley of Lompoc, emptying at last into the 



SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 11 

Pacific, between Point Concepcion and Point Pnrisiina. The towns 
of Lompoc and Santa Ynez are contained in this valley. 

The next valley, Los Alamos, is watered by an arroyo of the same 
name, which rises in the Sau Rafael mountains and empties into the 
Pacific between Point Purisima and Point Sal, though sometimes 
sinking into the ground and becoming invisible. Los Alamos is a 
long, narrow valley , scarcely more than two miles wide in its broadest 
part, and contains but one town, that of Los Alamos. 

The great Santa Maria valley lies upon the northern limits of the 
county. It is said to contain at least 65,000 acres of tillable land. 
Tbis is certainly underestimated. The Santa Maria river, forming 
the northern boundary line of the county, is a continuation of the 
Cuyama, which waters the valleys of Cuyama in the northeast, the 
only open portion of the piled up mountain ranges of that quarter. 
The valley of Santa Maria proper contains the towns of Santa Maria, 
formerly called Central City, and Guadalupe, near the mouth of the 
river. 

Three of the channel islands also belong to Santa Barbara County. 
San Miguel, the most western of the group, is about 2% miles in 
width, and 7% in length. Santa Rosa contains 53,000 acres and rises 
to a height of 1,172 feet. Santa Cruz, lying almost opposite the city 
of Santa Barbara, at a distance of twenty-five miles, contains 52, 700 
acres, and attains a height of 1,700 feet. 

The county is still divided into the ranchos of the Mexican period. 
As a matter of special interest, and with the kind permission of Joseph 
J. Perkins, Esq., of this city, we append hereto the very valuable table 
compiled by him; showing at a glance these rancho divisions, wit] i 
their acreage, etc. All lands not enrolled among these ranchos arc 
either pueblo lands or unsurveyed Government lands. The city oi 
Santa Barbara and the suburbs of Montecito and Carpinteria are built 
upon pueblo lands. 



SANTA BAEBAKA COUNTY. 



Names of Banc ho*. 



Lompoc and Mislon Vieja dela] 

Purisima 

La Espada y \ Forming Punta de 

El Cojo. > la Coneepcion 

W. y> N uestra Senora del Refugio.. 



San Julian 

Canada de Sal Si Puedes. 



Santa Rosa 

santa Rita 

Mision de la Purisima (Malo 
South Vy Jesus Maria... 



"-Cuyamsi Nos. 1 and 2 1 » 

*Sney by 

Tepusquet. I Sg" 

Sisquoc r 2t^ 

Tinaquaic I S'n* 

-Punta de la Laguna | ?~% 

••Guadalupe J S* 



North % Jesus Maria. 

La Laguna 

Los Alamos 

Toclos Santos 

Casmalia 



J s*« 



San Carlos de Jonata 1 '£ 

Corral de Quati j tp 

LaZaca -q 

Canada de Los Pinos | S 

San Marcos ! § 

Tequepis j m 

Los Prietos y Najalayegua | £• 

Las Loraas de la Purificacion t 

Nojoqui ■%• 

Las Cmces (two leagues) I r- 



East % Nestra Senora del Re- ") ^ID 
fugio 9. ?= g 



Canada del Corral 

Los Los Pueblos 

Las Positas y La Calera 

Santa Rosa Island 



■r. o P £ 



Santa Cruz Island J 



A cres. 



46,499 04-100 



24,992 04-100 
13,265 



18,221 
6,656 21-100 



16,525 

13,316 
34 012 

20,000 



55-100 
05-100 
56-100 



233,487 45-100 



71,020 75-100 
48,834 

8,900 
35,485 90-100 

8,874 60-100 
26,648 42-100 
43.681 85-100 



243,44-5 52-100 



22,184 93-100 
48,703 91-100 
48.803 38-100 
20,772 17-100 
8,841 21-100 



149,305 60-100 



26,634 31-100 
13,322 29-100 

4,458 10-100 
.3-5,499 
35,573 10-100 

8,919 
48,728 67-100 
13,341 39-100 
13-284 

8,888 



208,647 86-100 



13,264 

8,875 
15,534 76-100 

3,281 70-100 
62,696 49-100 
52,760 33-100 



156,412 28-100 



Cattle. 



950 



Sheep. 



2,000 



1,400 

Stock in eluded 
Julian. 

Stock in 
Julian. 

78 
50 



200 



3,000 

200 
. 660 
1,200 

300 
1,-500 



6,860 



300 
250 
.500 
200 
150 



J, 400 



100 

Stock in 

1.114 

'300 

Stock in 

Stock in 

200 

1,000 

1.315 

100 



4.129 



,-500 



64,703 
eluded 



17,000 



8.000 
4,000 



95,703 



250 
4,200 

•500 
4,000 
5.000 



13,950 



6,000 

10,000 

2.5.000 

3,000 

6,000 



-ii.OtiO 



1.590 
c'd'd w'h 

3,100 

2,000 

c'd'd w'h 

c'd'd w'h 

None. 

3,000 

5,9.50 

5,900 



21.750 



22.200 



29,000 

27,000 



2, r 00 I 78,200 



Hors 



500 



40 

with San 



with San 



20 

200 

50 



837 



40 

200 

19 

60 

300 

300 



919 



20 
100 
300 
50 
25 



495 



100 
La Zaca. 

20 

50 
Xojoqui. 
Xojoqui. 

20 

10 

88 

50 



338 



2-50 



100 



-Portions of the Guadalupe, Punta de la Laguna, Suey and the Cuyamas ex- 
tend into San Luis Obispo county, but the full acreage is given here as repre- 
sented by the U. S. patent. 



SANTA BARBAE A COUNTY. 13 



CHAPTER III. 



CLIMATE — EEPQBTS OF DE. NELSON AND DE. LOGAN — TESTIMONY OF 
OTHEE PHYSICIANS AND VISITORS . 

nvfT is impossible to say anything new about the climate of Santa 
£jy Barbara. That it rains, sometimes, in the winter, that snow never 
falls, that even frost is a rarity , — all these things have been told a 
thousand times. Tables of temperature and rainfall, with other inter- 
esting matter, will be found at the end of this pamphlet. The figures 
tell the story as well as figures can. But it must be considered that 
not only these tables, but the printed praises of hosts of visitors, ap- 
ply simply to the narrow strip of land noted as the valley of Santa 
Barbara proper, which lies south of the Santa Ynez mountains. Above 
Point Concepcion, the climate is colder and more moist. There the 
summer trade winds blow, from which this valley is protected by the 
mountainous islands in front and the mountain ranges behind it. The 
islands also intercept, to some extent, the rain-bearing winds of winter. 
The climate is still further modified by a warm ocean current flowing 
along the county's southern border. The interior valleys have an 
atmosphere remarkably dry and pure which in some diseases has been 
found of incalculable benefit. By the tables of rainfall for the past 
fifteen years, it will be seen that the amount is subject to great varia- 
tion. It is in fact proverbial that no two years are alike. The pres- 
ent season (1883-4) has been the severest known for thirty years, 34. 7G 
inches having fallen in this valley up to the first of May. 

In order to "see ourselves as others see us," the remainder of 
this chapter will be devoted to the statements of the best authorities 
on climatology in its relation to disease; also the impressions of a few 
distinguished visitors. 

Dr. Wolfred Nelson, C. M., M. D., Member of the College of 
Physicians and Surgeons, Quebec, Canada, at present U. S. Consul 
at Panama, South America, published an exhaustive article in the 
Planet, from which the following extracts are taken : 

"This small but charming seaside city is probably the best known 
of all California resorts. Its fame, both for health and residence, is 
world-wide. * * * Owing to the bend of the Coast range of 
mountains to the north of the city and the nearer foot-hills, it is all 
but closed in by them. Many of the mountains, some distance back 
of the city, are 3,000 or 4,000 feet high. The valuable protection 
they afford the place will be appreciated at once by the medical mind. 
The}' deprive cold and damp winds oi their moisture by filtering the 
air; hot breezes from the sandy plains, or the California desert of the 
olden writers, are likewise tempered by taking up a little moisture. 
They stand faithful sentinels to watch over the spot. * * * Owing 



14: SAXTA BARBARA COUNTY. 



to its geographical position, lying in a bend on the coast, the moun- 
tains to the north modify sea breezes and wind. Looking seaward, 
we see that its own coast is protected by the beautiful islands in the 
Santa Barbara channel. The large and mountainous islands of Santa 
Cruz and Santa Eosa, lie all but opposite, they are some miles out, 
and with others of the group form a protecting barrier that lessens 
the force of the vast rollers as they flow in from the grand old Pacific. 
* * * Santa Barbara has sprung into general fame within the 
last fifteen years, and now takes front rank, and deservedly so, as a 
health resort, and watering place. It has been selected by many ex- 
perienced travelers as a home, both for residence and health; the 
scores upon scores of comfortable homes in the city, as well as the 
cosy suburban villas in the Montecito, surrounded by their sub-tropi- 
cal trees, plants and flowers, say more for its healthfulness and de- 
lightful climate, than any mere verbal description can attempt. In 
that it is not expensive, it offers many inducements to those of easy 
or small means, who wish to settle down. The country itself and its 
environs have to be seen, ami its climate experienced, to be awarded 
their due meed of praise. * * * A great deal has been written 
.well and ably on the climatology of Southern California, but it will 
stand all the descriptions that have appeared hitherto, and still have 
a handsome balance in its favor for future writers, medical and 
lay. None know better than medical men than no one spot suits 
all classes of cases, or that no given climate is perfect. Patients 
must visit places like those now under consideration — and judge for 
themselves. It is to be presumed that all such leave home under 
medical advice. Their physicians will be able to say, generally, 
whether a stay on the sea-coast, or in the valleys or mountains of 
California, will be best suited to their cases. Sea air is often too 
stimulating for some pulmonary cases, while it agrees perfectly with 
others. Heat and a little moisture suit some cases very well, as we 
know, while the same agents exercise a pernicious influence on others. 

Should mountain air be necessary, patients can visit the Ojai 
Valley, fifteen miles away from Santa Barbara, easily reached by 
the very comfortable line of stages of Mr. Bundell's line. There they 
can camp out or live at the hotel — 2,000 feet above sea level. The 
Ojai Valley, however, is too important as a mountain sanitarium to 
be dismissed with this curt notice. It will be embodied in the next 
letter. There are hot sulphur springs six miles from Santa Barbara, 
very easy of access, in a canon, with an hotel and bathing establish- 
ment. Board — including bathing — is some §14.00 a week. They are 
visited frequently by the residents as well as visitors. Apropos of 
board in Santa Barbara — it varies all the way from 87.50 to 818.00 per 
week, fires, when necessary on cold or chilly days, extra. 

For centuries Mexico has had an unequalled reputation for all 



SANTA BAEBABA COUNTY. 15 

pulmonary and bronchial cases. California was originally a part of 
Mexico, the Southern part of the State on the coast joins the Mexican 
frontier — ten miles south of San Diego. It will thus be seen that 
California has inherited its good name for health. Many, many are 
living there now, as well as in various parts of the United States of 
America, who are indebted to its salubrious atmosphere for extended 
lives, and in other cases, a complete arrest of disease. Some far seeing 
people who have the hereditary tendency to phthisis, have sought such a 
climate with a view of aborting it in their children. That their fore- 
thought evinces the soundest judgment we must admit. There sick 
and well can almost live out of doors, constantly inhaling pure air. 
Under favorable circumstances, health is expected as a logical se- 
quence. The days are enjoyable and the nights are cool; occasion- 
ally during the winter a fire may be necessary. Cool nights mean re- 
freshing slumber. 

It is far from the writer's intention to paint Santa Barbara as a 
perfect paradise on earth — such spots exists only in the mind of the 
poet. It, in common with all health resorts, has its drawbacks. Fogs 
at times, and occasional sand-storms, now and then very hot clays (but 
not in the season), and once in a while cold, chilly days in winter t 
with a touch of frost. But even they have their advantages, as they 
remind one that there is no heaven on earth. Once over, the visitor 
or resident doubly appreciates his happy surroundings. 

The "season'" for visitors, sick and well, lasts from October to 
April or May, depending in a great measure on the severity, or early 
approach of winter in the Eastern States and Canada. Winter in 
Southern California extends from December to April, and means a 
small amount of rain, when good Dame Nature appears in her most 
becoming mantle of green, whose vivid hues are increased by wild 
flowers." 

Dr. Thomas M. Logan, ex-President of the American Medical 
Association, and Secretary of the State Board of Health, made a state- 
ment in favor of Santa Barbara as a suitable place for a State Sanita- 
rium. In his first official report, published in 1871, occurs the 
following: "The Secretary informed the Board that he had been 
occupied of late in visiting several localities in the southern part of 
the State, noted for salubrity, as San Rafael, Santa Ciuz, Monterey, 
San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara and other places. * * * While 
most of the localities named are possessed of climatic elements adapted 
to different stages and characters of pulmonary diseases, that of Santa 
Barbara appeared to present that happy combination of the tonic and 
sedative climate, which would seem to render it suitable to a greater 
variety of phthisical affections, and at the same time better adapted to 
the different stages of cachexia than any other place visited. For this 



16 



SANTA BAEBARA COUNTY. 



reason he had pronounced it the most fitting point for a Sani- 
tarium in California." 

An article was prepared by Dr. Logan for the Scientific Press, 
giving a popular account of those leading features of the prevailing 
atmospheric constitution of the place, as modified by the physical 
conformation, and which go to make up what is here understood by 
the word "climate." In this article Dr. Logan says: "The very con- 
formation and topography of this section, while it explains the 
cause, speaks to the intelligent reader of a climate that cannot be 
otherwise than even, mild and soft, and at the same time invigorating, 
with the moist but refreshing sea breezes which the thirsty land 
sucks in. In vain, heretofore, since my appointment to the respon- 
sible position of Health Officer to the State, have I sought for such a 
combination of sanitary qualities as are now presented. Here, in this 
mountain and island-locked valley, rising but a few feet from the blue 
waters of the grand old Pacific, all the prerequisites of health are to 
be found in measure so profuse that I would be accused of poetic ex- 
travagance were they duly portrayed. * * * As to the climate of 
Santa Barbara, it will be seen that, although lying in about the same 
Utitude as Charleston, S. C, yet it is totally different, and that the 
isothermal line would be deflected towards St. Augustine, Florida." 

Dr. BrinkerhofF, for more than twenty years a practicing phy- 
sician of Santa Barbara, a man of a peculiarly philosophic and 
thoughtful temperament, offered some years before his death the fol- 
lowing suggestions, which were incorporated in Dr. Logan's report: 
"Some ten miles from Santa Barbara, in the bed of the ocean, about 
one and a half miles from the shore, is an immense spring of petro- 
leum, the product of which continually rises to the surface and floats 
upon it over an area of many miles. This mineral oil may be seen 
any day from the deck of the steamers plying between here and San 
Francisco, or from the high banks along the 'shore. Having read 
statements that during the past few years the authorities of Damascus 
and other plague-ridden cities of the East have resorted to the prac- 
tice of introducing crude petroleum into the gutters of the streets to 
disinfect the air, and as a preventive of disease, which practice has 
been attempted with the most favorable results, I throw out the sug- 
gestion whether the prevailing sea breezes, passing over this wide 
expanse of petroleum, may not take up and bear along some subtle 
power which serves as a disinfecting agent, and which may account 
for the infrequency of some of the diseases referred to, and possibly 
for the superior heal thf ulness of the climate of Santa Barbara." 

The freedom of Santa Barbara from epidemics, and its general 
healthfulness has been testified to, again and again. Dr. Brinkerhoff 
thus alludes to the facts' of his own experience: "That the climate of 
Santa Barbara possesses elements of general healthfulness in an 



SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 17 

eminent degree, and perhaps, also, some latent peculiarities in its 
favor too subtle for ordinary observation, I may instance the follow- 
ing facts in this connection: During the eighteen years of my active 
practice here, I have never known a single case of scarlet fever or 
diphtheria. I have known of only three cases of dysentery, neither 
of which proved fatal; and of only three cases of membranous croup. 
The epidemics and diseases incident to childhood, which in other 
parts of the country sweep away thousands of children annually, are 
here comparatively unknown. Cases of fever and ague I have never 
known originating here, and persons coming here afflicted- with it, 
rarely have more than two or three attacks, even without the use of 
auti-periodics. I have known instances of smallpox at three different 
times. In each of the first two instances, occurring several years 
apart, the disease was confined to a single case, and was contracted 
elsewhere. Neither of these cases proved fatal. In the year 1864, 
when the disease prevailed so extensively, and proved so fatal through- 
out the State, there were two cases contracted elsewhere and devel- 
oped here, both of which proved fatal. Three other persons residing 
here contracted the disease from contagion at this time, all of whom 
recovered. Although no unusual precaution was taken to prevent 
the spread of the disease, it was confined to the cases mentioned. In 
the years 18G9-70, when this disease, in its most virulent form, pre- 
vailed so generally throughout the State, not a single case occurred 
at Santa Barbara, although in daily communication with other points 
of the State by stage and steamer." 

Dr. M. H. Biggs, for many years resident in Santa Barbara, and 
now a leading physician in Valparaiso, Chili, in his report to the State 
Medical Society, on the "Vital Statistics and Medical Topography of 
Santa Barbara," corroborates the testimony of Dr. BrinkerhofT in 
every respect. He says: "There are no malarious fevers. Persons 
who come here afflicted with fever and ague, rarely have more than 
two or three attacks. They soon become well, often without the use 
of anti-periodics. The climate seems sufficient to cure the malady. 
During a residence of over eighteen years, I have seen only one case 
of membranous croup, and heard of two others. There is no disease 
endemic to Santa Barbara — nothing but what can usually be referred, 
either directly or indirectly, to some indiscretion in eating or drink- 
ing, or unreasonable exposure." 

Dr. E. N. Wood, the author of the first "Guide to Santa Barbara," 
published in 1872, says: "There are essentially two climates in Cali- 
fornia — the land and the sea climate. The latter derives its low and 
even temperature from the ocean, which along the coast stands at 52° 
to 54° through the year. The summers are hotter in the north. One 
might travel from Santa Barbara northward in summer for 300 miles, 
and find it hotter everywhere than here, or go southeast the same 



18 SANTA BARBAKA COUNTY. 

distance to Fort Yuma, one of the hottest places in the world. * * * 
In speaking of the "rainy season" we do not mean a season of constant 
rains, or anything like it. The term is employed only in contrast 
with the dry season and implies the possibility of rain rather than its 
actual occurrence. In this county, even in the seasons of most rain, 
by far the larger part of the winter is bright and clear weather. It is 
usually regarded as the most pleasant part of the year. It is spring 
rather than winter, and most of the rain falls at night. The grass 
starts as soon as the soil is wet, and at Christmas the land is covered 
with green. The climate is always kindly. We are not troubled by 
the hot, exhausting days of the Eastern summer, which have no res- 
pite at night. * * * We have no thunder storms, and the showers 
must needs be short and gentle that aggregate only twelve inches a 
year. Frorn April to December there is no rain and one day is as 
another — bright, beautiful and life-giving. The gentle sea breeze is 
tonic and invigorating, and relieves the climate from enervation. The 
days combine the freshness of early spring in the Atlantic States with 
the softness and dreaminess of the Indian summer, and every day is a 
new delight. If one thinks of this continuing all the year with hardly 
twenty days' exception, he cannot doubt that Santa Barbara has a 
climate as nearly perfect as can be found." 

Rev. J. W. Hough, D. D., writes as follows : "It is only just 
beginning to be known that Southern California has a climate whose 
dryness, uniformity, freedom from malaria, general tonic properties 
and fitness for outdoor life, alike in summer and winter, make it the 
sanitarium of the Western Continent for consumptives, and I might 
add, an admirable camping ground for the great army of over-worked, 
debilitated, nervous, sleepless men and women, whose ranks are 
constantly recruited by the devotees of business and fashion in 
Eastern cities. * * * In Southern California one may 
choose his climate. I have described the whole region as dry, mild 
and equable ; but some points excel in dryness, and others in 
equability. One may live on the sea shore at Santa Barbara or San 
Diego, or in the interior at Riverside; he may live on the plain at Los 
Angeles, or among the mountains back of San Bernardino. He may 
greatly vary his climate within a much smaller range. Here, in the 
town of Santa Barbara, in the Hot Springs canon six miles distant, 
on the summit of the Santa Ynez mountains, twelve miles away, and 
at the newly discovered springs at the opposite foot of the range, 
twenty miles distant, are four quite different climates, the difference 
being effected by change in the altitude and distance from the sea. 

* * * "See Naples and die," say the proud Neapolitans, 
"Come to Santa Barbara and live," say the equally contented 
Barbarehos." 

Mr. J. C. Culbertson, in a letter to the New York Tribune, writes 



SANTA BAKBAEA COUNTY. 19 

as follows : "Daring the winter there are twice the number of days 
on which an invalid or pleasure seeker can enjoy a walk in the 
sunshine that he would find at Pau, Nice, Mentone, Naples or Rome. 
This I know from years of personal experience. In these places the sum- 
mer sunshine is almost unendurable, whilst in Santa Barbara it is the 
pleasantest season of the year. If the day is too hot, one has only to 
seek the shade and he will be fanned by a gentle breeze from the 
grand old Pacific. If too cool, he has only to step into the sunshine 
to be comfortable. However hot the days may be, the nights are 
always cool. Take the climate of Santa Barbara, with its rainy 
season and its dry season, its foggy days and its windy days, there 
are not more than twenty out of the 355 in which an invalid may not 
enjoy a walk in tha sunshine some part of the day. And considering 
its winter, summer, spring and autumn together, I am sure there is 
not a spot on the civilized globe that will equal it in equability of 
climate and grand scenery and surroundings. But I would say to 
invalids : If you are far gone in consumption you need hardly expect 
to be cured anywhere; but by coming here and taking very great 
care of yourselves you may live a few months or years longer than 
elsewhere." 

Ex-Governor Fenton, of New York, says of Santa Barbara: "It 
would hardly be poetic extravagance to say it is a fairy-like scene of 
land and sky, as inviting as this good earth can well be, 
with the fruits and flowers of a perpetual summer. * * * Its 
fascinations, especially as a health resort, it is not easy to overstate. 
* * * Speaking for myself, I confess that I overlook the draw- 
backs of a residence here, obviously there are some, for the climate, 
than which there can be no better. * * * Why not, when from 
my own observation in Florida, in Texas, the south of France and 
the world-renowned Italy, I can say, this climate at least excels them 
all !" 

The Princess Louise of England, and her husband, the Marquis of 
Lome, were free in their expressions of enjoyment of the beauty, rest 
and quiet of Santa Barbara. Their intention was but to remain a few 
days, but the time was extended to a fortnight, during which thev drove 
or walked about town daily, the Princess sketching points of interest. 
They were especially pleased with the manners of the people, who 
allowed them to amuse themselves in their own way without 
intrusion. 

Bishop John F. Hurst, D. D.,LL. D., says: "You are sure to 
be conquered in California. If you do not surrender at one place, 
you will have to do it at another. In the North you can resist very 
well, even in the l^osemite; but you are in hopeless danger if you' 
drift southward and sunward. * * * and that fair place over- 
looking the sea they call Santa Barbara, after her of wondrous beauty, 



20 SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 



who lived in the prison tower for her faith's sake, and died for it in 
savage old Bithynia." 

Judge Freelon, of San Francisco, in a letter to a losal journal 
says: "The idea that Mr. Nordhoff or anybody else has ever 
exaggerated the charms of Santa Barbara is preposterous! Many 
have tried to say something adequate on the subject and have failed 
ignominious ly. Nobody yet has had the genius to portray Santa 
Barbara!" 

Mr. J. R. G. Hassard, a staff correspondent of the New Yoik 
Tribune, who spent several months in this country, says of Santa 
Barbara: "A placid little nook of ocean seems to have been provided 
by nature,, where the sun shines almost always and the hurly-burly 
of traffic and speculation is hushed." 

Testimony such as the foregoing can be gathered by the ton. It 
is a temptation to the writer to linger among the pleasant sayings and 
appreciative letters of such travelers. But a more practical duty lies 
before us, to enumerate the advantages which are calculated to win 
honest settlers, who may or may not feel any sympathy with the invalid 
class to whom this chapter is especially dedicated. 



CHAPTER IV 



MEANS OF ACCESS — POPULATION — COUNTY PEOPEETT AND DEBT — SCHOOL 
DISTRICTS AND THE SCHOOL CENSUS — MISCELLANEOUS STATISTICS. 

?f|^HE means of access to Santa Barbara areas yet mainly limited to 
jg the ax^proach by sea. The steamers of the Pacific Coast Steam- 
ship Co., Goodall, Perkins & Co., Agents, San Francisco, make regular 
trips — through steamers alternating with others that touch at several 
way ports. The through steamers, which touch only at Port Harford 
before reaching Santa Barbara, are the new and magnificent Santa 
Rosa, which has just been placed on the route, and the old favorite 
Orizaba. They sail alternately every five days from San Francisco, 
making the trip in about 30 hours. The Eureka and the Los Angeles 
sail alternately with the others, making a service of about fourteen 
steamers every month. But these latter boats carry freight mainly, 
to and from Santa Barbara, as they call at several ports each way, 
making the voyage somewhat longer for passengers. Freight steamers 
call at Carpinteria and Goleta, when sufficient freight is offered, as in 
the harvest season. The fare from San Francisco to Santa Bar- 
bara, and vice versa, is 810.00 in the cabin and $7.50 in the 
steerage. The steamers are all made as comfortable as possible, with 
experienced officers and obliging attendants. Besides the regular ser- 



J3A&TA BARBARA COUNTY. 



21 



ViCe^ freight steamers, carrying combustibles, etc., sail every week 
for southern ports. The ticket agent of the company in Santa Barba- 
ra is X. A,. NorCross; toe local freight agent, John P. Stearns. 

5For those who dislike a voyage 'by sea> several alternatives are of- 
fered, A daily stage to Newhall via Ventura,, carries the nlail and 
connects with the Southern Pacific R. R., for San Francisco-, or tot 
Los Angeles, and from thence to Arizona and the East. There is also 
a daily accommodation stage to Ventura, a distance of thirty miles. 
To Newhall from Santa Barbara is about 85 miles. Many travelers 
going East prefer to take the steamer to Los Angeles, and from thence 
begin their long journey across the continent, by one of the southern 
transcontinental roads. Going north, a daily stage connects with the 
cars at Los Alamos*, stages at San Luis, cars again at Soledad, to San 
Francisco. This is a particularly pleasant trip in the proper season * 
as it passes through some of the finest scenery in Southern California; 
The cars from Los Alamos also extend to the wharf at Port Har 1 
ford s connecting with steamers up and down the coast. 

The county is well supplied with Wharves to facilitate cotnfainni* 
cation by sea. Beside those on Santa CrUz and Santa Rosa ialaiidSj 
there is a wharf at Point Sal, the shipping point for Guadalupe and 
the Santa Maria valley; the Schute Landing on the Casmalia rancho; 
one on the Jesus Maria rancho and one at Purisima; one at La Es- 
pada and another at Gaviota, for the Santa Ynez valley, San Julian, 
etc.; at More's landing for La Patera and vicinity; Stearns' wharf at 
Santa Barbara and Smith's wharf at Carpinteria. All the landings 
below Point Coneepcion are available in any weather, for although 
the so-called harbor is little more than an open roadstead, the islands- 
protect it from the violence of kcary storms, 

It cannot be denied that many have been deterred from settling 
here by reason of a lack of railways. For years the county has been 
vibrating between hopes of a railroad and fears of its effects. Peri- 
odical attempts have been made to induce some of the great corpora- 
tions to build in this direction. In several instances we have almost 
heard the sound of the whistle piercing these mountain barriers — 
almost looked to see the smoky streamers of the locomotive descending 
to the sea. We have had railroad committees to make arrangements, 
and railroad engineers to report upon a practicable route— but no 
railroad, except the narrow gauge now resting on its laurels at Los 
Alamos. This will probably achieve the city in due course of time* 
But to satisfy in any degree the coming population, to whom railroads 
seem a matter of meat and drink, nothing will serve but a grand 
transcontinental, broad gauge, trunk line from the eastern seaboard, 
and a coast line from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego! Yet there are old 
residents who do not scruple to say that the bustle of coming and going 



2- SANTA BAKBAEA COUNTY. 



trains, with their inevitable consequents, will take half the charms 
from this quiet valley. 

In 1870, the population of Santa Barbara county, which then 
included Ventura, was given in the census reports at 7,987. In 1872 
the county was divided, and in 1880 the census for Santa Barbara 
alone showed a population of 9,513. As a proof that the number is 
still increasing, reference is made to the school reports and the Great 
Register of the county. In 1879 the number of registered voters was 
2,384; in 1882 it was 2,573; now, in 1884, it is estimated by the County 
Clerk, (no Great Register having been printed since 1882) to be at 
least 2,600 in round numbers, probably more rather than less. This 
shows a healthy increase. If the voting part of the population is, 
as commouly estimated, about one-fifth of the whole, the county may 
reasonably claim a population of nearly 13,000 souls. 

According to the last report of the Superintendent of Schools for 
the year ending June 30, 1884, the number of children between five 
and seventeen years of age, amounts to 3,445; the number of school 
districts, 40. [This might be compared with the report of 1879, when 
there were but 30 school districts and 2,976 children of school age.] 
There are 13 Negro and 20 Indian children, counted with the above. 
In addition, the report notes 47 Mongolian children of school age, 
who are not allowed the benefit of the schools. The following are 
the names of the school districts, with the number of the school 
children in each : Agricola, 34; Artesia, 66; Ballards, 26; Bells, 
84; Bear Creek, 27; Carpinteria, 113; Casmalia, 30; Cathedral 
Oaks, 66; Central, 99; College, 70; Dos Pueblos, 28; Guadalupe, 112; 
Honda, 16; Hope, 56; Jonata, 21; Las Cruces, 42; Los Alamos, 30; 
Lompoc, 195; Maple, 53; Miguelito, 23: Mission, 96; Montecito, 174; 
Najoqui, 19; Oak Vale, 38; Ocean, 59; Pine Grove, 41; Pleasant 
Valley, 40; Point Sal, 16; Purisima, 22; Rafaela, 78; Bincon, 80; 
Santa Barbara, 1,258; Santa Maria, 94; Santa Rita, 43; Suey, 44; 
Sisquoo, 23; Washington, 32; Laguna, 19; La Graciosa, 52; La Pate- 
ra, 36. 

The county has outstanding bonds to the amount of 846,500. 
Cash in the treasury, $34,318.75, to be devoted to the county's cur- 
rent expenses. The value of property belonging to the county, in- 
cluding a handsome brick Court House, is about 885,000. Last year 
the rate of taxation for the State and County was 81.694 on each 8100; 
for the city, 85 cents.' Legal interest is 7 per cent.; but the contract 
system prevails in this State, and money can be loaned upon good 
security at 10 or 12 per cent, per annum. This is a decided reduction 
from the rates of ten years ago, and it is probable that as the country 
becomes more settled and prosperous, interest upon money will still 
further decline. 



SAKTA BARBARA COUNTY. 2B 



CHAPTER V. 



THE CITY OF SANTA BARBARA. 

iprRONTING the southeast, the city of Santa Barbara lies upon a 
^»|| sloping plateau, which, attaining within two miles a height of 
300 feet, affords ample facilities for drainage. To the right, as the 
traveler lands upon Stearns' wharf, he sees the apparently low foot- 
hills, nestling at the base of a rugged mountain range that seems to 
bound the horizon; to the left, the mesa or table land, rising boldly 
f rom the plain and terminating abruptly in the foreground in the pic- 
turesque and often painted Punta del Castillo, sometimes incorrectly 
called Castle Rock. Between these, with the white towers of the Old 
Mission shining in the background, the beautiful city is outspread, 
covering a space of about two miles square, and laid out in generous 
blocks of 450x450 feet. It is a city of gardens. Every modest cottage 
is overrun with roses or covered by clambering vines, or encompassed 
with trees and tropic foliage, and blooming shrubs from every quar- 
ter of the globe. The garden of Dr. L. N. Dimmick, on De la Vina 
street, is especially noted for its collection of curious and interesting 
plants, translated from the most widely varying climates. Many of 
the streets are bordered with the graceful pepper tree, the elegant 
grevillea or the giant eucalyptus. Trees are subject to fashion, like 
everything else, and many varieties have had their day; but the beau- 
tiful pepper tree was the first love of Santa Barbara, and still holds its 
own against all comers. It is a tree beloved of artists and is sure of 
immortality upon canvass, at least. 

Santa Barbara is an incorporated city of about 5,000 inhabitants. 
The present incumbents of the chief municipal offices are: Geo. W, 
Coffin, Mayor; J. R. Vance, Councilman for the First Ward; A. F. 
McPhail, Second Ward; J. N. Johnson, Third Ward; G. W. Leland, 
Fourth Ward, and I. K. Fisher for the Filth Ward. The City Hall is 
a handsome brick building standing upon a small central plaza. In 
addition to rooms for the accommodation of the Council, City Clerk, 
etc., it provides quarters for the fire companies, two in number, a 
hook-and-ladder company, and "Washington No. 2" Engine Co., the 
latter company proud in the possession of a 84000 nickel-plated en- 
gine, which is mainly ornamental, as fires seldom occur. The princi- 
pal buildings upon State street, the main business street of the city, 
are lit with gas, furnished by the Santa Barbara Gas Co. Water is 
freely distributed to all parts of the city through the mains of the Mis- 
sion Water Co. This water is drawn from a clear mountain stream 
which descends through a narrow, picturesque canon north of the 
city, called Mission Canon, a resort in the season for picnic parties 
and excursionists who love Dame Nature in deshabille. 

The public schools are of the first order; these in the Third and 

\ 



24 



SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 



Fifth Wards occupy fine roomy buildings, and all are supplied 
with excellent teachers. For all these reasons, private schools do not 
flourish. The only educational establishment of any size outside the 
public schools, is the St. Vincent orphan asylum, established in 1858, 
taught by the good Sisters, whose devotion to the cause of charity is 
understood and admired by Protestants as well as Catholics. 

The city contains a fair proportion of church-going people, and 
several handsome clmrch edifices. The largest congregation is that 
of the Catholic faith. Beside the Parish Church, on the corner of 
State and Figueroa streets, under the supervision of Eev. Father 
James "Villa, services are held in the old Mission Church, by the Fran- 
ciscan friars. Trinity Church (Episcopal) stands on Gutierrez street, 
Eev. John Bakewell, D. D., Hector. The Congregational Church, on 
Santa Barbara street, between Cota and Ortega, Bev. C. S. Yaile, pas- 
tor. The Presbyterian Church, on State street, is under the minis- 
terial charge of Bev. M. L. E. Hill. Bev. A. W. Jackson preaches 
to a Unitarian congregation in Unity Chapel, on State street. Bev. 
"W. A. Knighten is pastor of the Methodist Episcopal Church on De 
la Guerra street, and Bev. Dr. Nisbet supplies the Baptist Church 
on Micheltorena street. 

In respect to hotels, Santa Barbara claims a just precedence over all 
the other cities of Southern California. The Arlington, undoubtedly 
the finest, is really a magnificent house, thoroughly appreciated by 
tourists, under the management of W. N. Cowles. The Ellwood, late- 
ly opened to the public, is a roomy, comfortable, home-like hotel, 
managed by M. E. Hunt. The well known Morris House, J. F. Mor- 
ris, proprietor, and the Occidental, C. H. Fiske, proprietor, are both 
handsome, well-furnished and pox^ular hotels. The price of board at the 
different hotels varies from $6 to §20 per week, the latter price command- 
ing an elegantlv furnished apartment at the Arlington. Excellent meals 
can be obtained at Baffour's French Bestaurant and the Central Bes- 
tanrant. The proprietors of both can also furnish comfortable rooms 
for lodgers. There are several excellent chop-houses, coffee-houses, 
etc., where meals can be obtained for from 15 to 25 cents. These also 
deal in oysters, cooked to order, during the proper season. A num- 
ber of private boarding and lodging houses, in different parts of the 
city, offer the very best accommodations to quiet guests, at varying 
prices. 

Street cars run from the wharf to the Arlington. A popular 
mode of locomotion is the 'bus; several of these vehicles ply in all 
directions, or will even take parties upon short excursions. Fine 
hacks and carriages abound. Stylish livery turnouts and saddle 
horses can be obtained at reasonable prices at the following stables: 
Victoria Stables, J. N.- Johnson; Arlington Stables, D.W.Thomp- 
son; Occident Stables, G. \V. Leland; Champion Stables, A. F. Mc- 



SANTA BAEBABA COUNTY. 25 



Phail; Fashion Stables, O. M. Covarrubias, and the Black Hawk 
Stables, D. W. Martin. 

Wells, Fargo & Co.'s Express office is on State street; A. O. Per- 
kins, agent. The Postoffice is a money order office, and P. J. Barber 
the reigning Postmaster. The Western Union Telegraph office is 
managed by Miss J. A. Norcross, and is opposite the Postoffice. 
There are two banks, the First National, W. W. Hollister, President, 
and A. L. Lincoln, Cashier; the Santa Barbara County National, W. 
M. Eddy, President, and E. S. Sheffield, Cashier. 

Two news}Dapers provide the citizens with daily reports from the 
outside world. The Independent is published every day, Sundays 
included, and a weekly edition Saturdays, by the Independent Pub- 
lishing Co., George P. Tebbetts, Manager. The Press, daily, except 
Sundays, and weekly, by W. G. Kinsell. 

Societies flourish. The following are the names of Lodges: 
Santa Barbara, F. and A. M. ; Magnolia, F. and A. M. ; Corinthian 
Chapter, R. A. M.; Marguerite Chapter, Order Eastern Star; Chan- 
nel City Lodge, I. O. O. F.; Santa Barbara Lodge, I. O. O. F.; Sea- 
side Lodge, I. O. G. T.; Santa Barbara Lodge, I. O. G. T.; Santa 
Barbara Lodge, Knights of Pythias; Santa Barbara Lodge, A. O. U. 
W.; Ocean Yiew Council O. C. F. ; Santa Barbara Council, A. L. H.; 
Starr King Post, G. A. B. The Santa Barbara Guard is commanded 
by Captain P. L. Moore. The W. C. T. U. have pleasant rooms on 
State street. Two Clubs, the Union and the Pioneer, have rooms 
handsomely fitted up, one in the First National Bank building and the 
other in the Odd Fellows' Building. There is a local circle of Cha- 
tauquans, a flourishing Natural History Society, Horticultural and 
Agricultural Societies. The two latter societies are very active and 
progressive, and their fairs are invariably occasions of s|oecial inter- 
est. Lobero's Theatre would do credit to a larger city than Santa 
Barbara, holding an audience of 1,200, with a fine roomy stage and 
provided with a fair amount of scenery. There are several associa- 
tions of musicians, brass and string bands, orchestras, etc., whose 
members are much given to the practice of serenading. Almost any 
pleasant night may be heard the vibrant strains of wandering players 
making the soft air musical'm spots. 

A source of especial pride to the citizens of Santa Barbara is the 
Public Library. This was originally owned by the Odd Fellows; 
but a few ladies made heroic efforts in its behalf, whereby it was 
transferred to the city as a free gift. Friends of culture in and out of 
the city have made generous donations of coin and books, and 4,000 
volumes now rest upon its shelves. The lite Floral Carnival was one' 
<of many entertainments given for its benafit. It is managed by a 
Beard of five Trasteas, elected by the people. The principal period- 



1^6 SANTA BARBARA COT73TTY. 



icals and a variety of newspapers are received regularly. A move- 
ment is now on foot to provide permanent quarters, expressly ar- 
ranged for the needs of the library. It is also proposed to extend its- 
privileges, which have heretofore been limited to city tax-payers and 
visitors nominated by them. Since the people of the surrounding: 
suburbs have worked hand-in-hand with the citizens, it is but just 
that they participate in its benefits. 

Among the leading physicians of Santa Barbara are Dr. S. B. P, 
Knox, Dr. R. F. Winchester, Dr. Shaw, Dr. Bates, Dr. Crooks, Dr, 
Logan, Dr. Guild and a lady physician. Dr. Harriet G. Belcher, 
Among the legal fraternity, the following are the most prominent: 
Hon. D. P. Hatch, the present Superior Judge, Hon, Charles Fer- 
nald, late Mayor of the city, Messrs. W. C. Stratton, Paul E. "Wright, 
E. B. Hall, R. B. Canfield, C. A. Storke, Chas. E. Huse, B. F. Thomas, 
J. J. Boyce, J. T. Richards, A. A. Ogiesby, Thos. McNulta, R. M. 
Dillard, C, A. Thompson, R. H, Chittenden, J. H. Kincaid and A. T. 
Bates. Eigut of these gentlemen have occirpied the bench at times 
and are addressed as "Judge." The common Calif ornian custom of 
bestowing the aforesaid title upon every member of the bar, does not 
obtain here. Three dentists suffice to keep the mouths of the people- 
in order: Doctors L. G. Yates, D, B, Lee and H. W. Stauffer. 

Following are the names of the principal business men of Santa 
Barbara: Real Estate and Insurance — Messrs. W. H. Woodbridge, 
Joseph J. Perkins, G. W. Coffin, A. O. Perkins and Fred. A. Moore. 
Photographers— A. M. Stringfield, C. W. Judd and W. J. Rea. Sta- 
tioners — Alphonse Crane, H. A. C. McPhail and J. H. Summers, 
Lumber dealers — Corham & Co., and Chas. Pierce. Furniture deal- 
ers and Undertakers— Knight <fc Blood, Robert Bell, F. F. Pierce, R, 
Forbush and A. H. Emigh. Carriage Manufacturers — Hunt & Son, 
A. C. Schuster and Joseph Bates. Druggists — H. J. Finger, A. M. Ruiz 
and B. Gutierrez. Jewelers— John Eaves, E. B, Chambers, Israel 
Miller, B. Guinand and P, Van der Linden. Dry Goods— N. P. Aus- 
tin, W. E. Noble, H. F. Maguire, T. M. Breslauer and A. Garland. 
Dealers in Hardware — Edwards & Boeseke and Boeder & Ott. Boots 
and Shoes— Bell & Hunt, F.N.Emerson & Co., and T.Wharton. 
Clothing stores— Mortimer Cook, A. Fluehe, S. Hanauer, C. E. Hoff- 
man. Grocers — John Walcott, P. N. Newell, Hunt & Metcalf, W.-H. 
Myers, Smith & Johnson and J. H. Jacobs. Saddlers — S. Loomis, J. 
J. Eddleman. Milliners— Mrs. M. F. Hamer, Kenney & Hayward and 
Misses Ahern. Wholesale Butchers — I. K. Fisher and Sherman <fe 
Ealand. Candy Manufacturer— G. N. Johnson. Florists — John 
S pence and Joseph Sexton. 

The cost of living here compares favorably with other places. If so 
fanciful a distinction might be made, one would say that the necessi- 
ties of life can be bought cheaply and its luxuries dearly. A person 



SANTA J5AKBAEA COUNTY, 27 

•of simple tastes can live in Santa Barbara perhaps at less cost than 
anywhere upon the continent. It is a delightful place for a small in- 
come; but for no income at all, the chanees are not brilliant. A small 
house, unfurnished, can be rented for $12; a cabin for much less and 
a palace for much more. The prices of real estate are now at a reas- 
onable level. A lot in the business portion of town would bring from 
$50 to $80 per front foot (on State street); a small lot in the residence 
portion is worth from $150 to $500; on the outskirts, good land can be 
bought for from $50 to $100 per acre, uninrproved. 

A steam planing mill, owned by Thomas Nixon, is kept running 
•constantly. Mr. Nixon and Postmaster Barber are the principal arch- 
itects residing in the city, and their work may be studied on many 
elaborate structures. The cannery, owned by the Dimmick, Sheffield 
■& Knight Fruit Co., has already acquired a name abroad. Fruits, 
such as strawberries, apricots, nectarines, peaches, grapes, plums, 
pears, etc., are put up in the best manner. Tomatoes are also canned. 
This cannery, in the season, provides employment for from 80 to 125 
persons. The city is well supplied with skilled mechanics. Laborers 
are also plentiful. If there be a lack of any kind of labor, it is in the 
line of domestic service. Chinese servants dominate many house- 
holds. Female servants are very rare and highly prized. 

The Hospital Farm, outside the city limits, was purchased sev- 
eral years ago at a cost of $9,000, and a great many necessary im- 
provements have since been added. It is not intended as a refuge for 
paupers; but to shelter and care for the indigent sick. A poor house 
is an unknown quantity in this country. The necessities of the most 
poverty-stricken are supplied by a monthly sum, allowed by the Board 
of Supervisors upon proper representations. 

Architecturally, Santa Barbara may be called of a mixed compo- 
site order. Pretty bay- windowed cottages are common. More per- 
tentious dwellings are not rare. Of these the m )st palatial is the mag- 
nificent new residence of Thomas B. Dibblee, built upon the Punta 
del Castillo, a fine point of vantage. The grounds are laid out in the 
most generous, yet artistic fashion, and the building it elf is one of 
the richest in Southern California. The residence of Don Gaspar 
Oreha, near the Mission, is also noticed by strangers for the beauty of 
its architectural design, and others, the property of John Edwards, 
J. W. Calkins, J. W. Cooper, Judg3 Fernald and Captain W. E. 
Greenwell, would be considered handsome buildings anywhere. 

Of society, as the word is usually defined, but little can be said. 
When it is considered that a moiety have strayed hither from all points, 
of the compass; meeting here the pastoral princes of a post-platal 
period or the children of a still earlier age — hijos del pais — could any 
homogeneity be expected? Social divisions are mainly made upon 



28 SANTA BABBABA CdUNTY. 

religious lines, though not to so great a degree as formerly. There 
is some influence — doubtless climatic — which renders the manners oi 
the people at large more gentle and gracious than is apt to be the 
case elsewhere. This peculiarity was, strangely enough, first noted 
in print by a traveling humorist, "Derrick D odd" of the San Fran- 
cisco Post. And the inevitable admiration for the country which 
infects society to a remarkable degree, gives rise to a certain clannish 
temper, exasperating to tourists of the nil admirari type. 



CHAPTER VL 



£b moxtecjto, 

Yjr^HE word "monte'' means a thicket, and land covered with brush 
sQAQI is in this part of the country known as "monte land." It is 
sure to be fertile when cleared. Montecito therefore means only a 
diminutive monte, and whoever may have driven through to the old 
Dinsmore place twelve years ago will recognize the aptness of the 
name. Strangers usually jump to the conclusion that the word means 
"little mountain," from the similarity of sound. El Montecito is sim- 
ply a suburb of Santa Barbara. It is in a charming valley about four 
miles eastward from the city, and contains many handsome residences, 
The valley opens to the southwest, on the sea. The farms are mostly 
small, but in the highest state of cultivation . A large number of 
places rank as country seats rather than as farms. Among the finest 
places, occupied by capitalists or professional gentlemen, is the beau- 
tiful residence known as the Eddy place, now owned by Mr. Larminie, 
an English gentleman. Fronting this, is Judge Hall's new country 
seat; not far from his old place, now owned by J. M. Forbes, the well 
known railroad man. Mr. Forbes has bought largely in Montecito, 
and possesses a handsome estate there which is being rapidly develop- 
ed. Other elegant country seats are those of Col. Hayne, I. R. Bax- 
ley, Dr. E. W. Crooks, J. M. Parks, Mrs. Dinsmore, J. Doulton, H, 
Stoddard, R. Kinton Stevens, \Ym. Field and others. Montecito is 
especially adapted to horticulture. Many tropical fruits come to per- 
fection. Among others, the bananas, planted by the late Col. Dins- 
more, still ripen freely in the warm air. The place is now owned by 
Messrs. Johnston and Goodrich. The series of experiments in horti- 
culture made for years in this valley by Col. Bond, who still retains 
his magnificent place, and Col. Dinsmore, have been invaluable to 
those who came later. The flourishing orchards of these two places, with 
those of J. M. Hunter, O. A. Stafford, H. L. Williams, H. C. Thomp- 
son, Col. Hayne, C. Aug. Thompson and others, show what delicious 
fruits the kindly soil can produce. 



SANTA BAEBABA COU.VTY. 29 

• 

The Montecito Nursery, under the management of J. D. Reeves, 
is an interesting place to visit. It lies in a sheltered spot, where the 
most delicate plants can be coaxed into life. The whole valley is so 
situated that it is usually a few degrees warmer than in the neighbor- 
ing valleys. Strawberries are particularly productive. The 
only place in the valley that could be denominated a large farm is the 
Swift place, which occupies a commanding position; the only rancho 
the Jacques place, now owned by H. L. Williams, whose acres are 
spread out over Ortega Hill, and support quite a number of hogs and 
other live stock. Within the last year so much property has changed 
hands and so many buildings have been erected that the Montecito 
would scarcely be recognized by an old inhabitant. The old Matan- 
za property, once covered with fine oak woods, has been cleared and 
planted with fruit trees in profuse number. As an industry of Mon- 
tecito, perhaps bee-keeping is quite as important as any. Every 
canon has its rows of bee hives, and upon almost every miniature 
farm the bees swarm in myriads. There has been at times some un- 
friendly feeling between the bee men and the fruit men, the former's 
proteges being accused of eating some fruits before they were fully 
ripened, and even attending to the grapes while in blossom. 

The former attraction of Montecito, the big grave-vine, was taken 
up and carried to the Centennial in sections. But the "daughter" vine 
bids fair to eclipse its parent. The "big grave-vine" property is own- 
ed by Dr. Doremus. Every one, who would be likely to read about 
Santa Barbara at all, must be fully acquainted with the story of the 
vine — how it was planted by a lovely Sehorita. to whom it had been 
given by her lover, as a whip, and how it grew and bore tons of deli- 
cious grapes — so we spare further recital of the well-worn tale. The 
trellis supporting the vine made a shady saloon beneath, which for 
years was used by the native population as a dancing-floor. In Dr. 
Wood's Guide, alluded to previously, the following poetical notes 
occur: "Under this tropical trellis, on the hard beaten earth, many 
a rising moon has thrown its level beams upon Sehor and Seiiorita 
dancing to the sad guitar, or upon the easy swing and wild abandon 
of the Spanish fandango. Here is the romance of the south. Here 
should the poet lounge and smoke in the starlight without, watching 
the dreamy convolutions of the waltz, listening to the soft rhythm of 
the Spanish tongue as voices float above sighing of the music. Here? 
too, have come the murderer, and the outlaw, stopping for pleasure 
in their flight from death. And here the officers of justice overtaking 
the fugitive, a desperate shot and its answer have interrupted the 
dance for a moment and put the desperado beyond reach of judge and 
jury." 

Except the school buildings in the central part of Montecito, and 
a small Catholic church, where services are held occasionally, there 



"' SA3TTA BARBABA COUNTY", 



are no public buildings of any kind. For church-going, marketing' 
and social amusement, the residents depend upon Santa Barbara, 
There are quite a number of native Calif ornian families in the valley, 
whose ancestors, as far as they know, were born on the same spot. 
They are generally a simple and kindly people who care little for 
things outside the circle of their native mountains. As a curiosity of 
the last census, it may be stated that there are 68 persons claiming 
the name of Bomero. A description of the Montecito Hot Springs- 
will be given elsewhere. 



CHAPTEB VII. 



CAEPIKTEEIA. 

.^E valley of Carpinteria was a part of the pueblo lands oj: Santa 
gJyj Barbara. In early days it was the custom of tke prefect (an 
officer equivalent to the Mayor of to-day) to portion out the tillable 
lands among the people, who raised upon it their summer crops and 
then retreated to town for the winter. No titles to the soil ever 
passed before the coming of the Americans. The name was derived 
from a traditional carpenter, whose place of business was called in 
the Spanish tongue, el Carpinteria (with the accent on the penulti- 
mate) . The thickly settled central portion of the valley is twelve 
miles east of Santa Barbara. The silver beach curves gently from 
the point dividing Montecito and Carpinteria, to the bold and rocky 
Bincon, giving the whole valley a southerly exposure. From the 
beach, it seems as if the land was enclosed, from x^oint to point, by a 
deep semi-circle of purple mountains. In this well protected corner 
lies about ten square miles of deep, fertile, mostly alluvial soil. 
These rich bottom lands are the natural home of the Lima bean, Car- 
pinteria's chief export. Fruits and nuts are produced in quantities 
and attaining sometimes an abnormal size. One of the first American 
settlers tells us that in early days it was not thought that this valley 
would ever be valuable for horticulture, owing to the utter absence of 
large streams for irrigation. But in time it became thoroughly appar- 
ent that the natural moisture might be retained in the deep loamy 
soil, by proper cultivation, making any artificial irrigation superflu- 
ous. Kow, in the heat of summer, may be seen green fields of corn. 
or beans, stretching away for miles, sometimes only divided from 
each other by a narrow roadway; fields on which no rain has ever 
fallen, and the nearest water is sixty feet under ground. A full 
account of the Lima bean industry will be given in another chapter . 
Low foothills, at the base of the mountains, are sometimes culti- 
vated to their very summits. On mesas and rolling lands, wheat and 



sa:sta bauba.ua county, SI 

and there, along the face of the apjDar entry solid range, open myste- 
rious canons, watered by trickling brooks from distant springs. The 
'enthusiast who attempts to follow one of these to its source, after 
tramping for miles along the tiny stream will be apt to give up at last 
in despair. He will admire the gay luxuriance of wild growths; the 
sycamores with their silver-grey trunks and roots sprawling in the 
gurgling water. If it is the right season, the delicious wild black- 
berry will tempt him always a little further. And if he is a botanist, 
lie will be fully recompensed for his fatigue in the presence of the 
most delicate and fairy-like of ferns. Looking from the sea-beach 
toward the mountains, one would say that these endless canons were 
not possible, and indeed he who has never traversed their length will 
be unable to believe the half that might be told. 

Carpinteria is divided generally into small farms; a few acres of 
this astonishing soil being enoiigh for the support of a family. Prices 
are high by comparison — but by actual worth, low, the best alluvial 
lands bringing from 8100 to 8200 per acre. Mesa land, suitable for 
grain, is worth from 85 to 830 per acre. All the best of the canons, 
which are generally government land, have been taken up, but some 
of these claims can be bought very reasonably. The chief product 
of these canon farms is honey, bees seeming to take kindly to the 
wild flower food in the vicinity. 

The Carpinteria wharf, a good solid structure, is owned by the 
Smith Bros., whose house, lumber-yard and warehouses serve to 
give the place a busy air. The produce of the valley is here shipped 
to its market, A few miles beyond the wharf is the brick store of 
Mr. Thurmond, which also serves as the postoflice, and is surrounded 
by a cluster of buildings, among them a restaurant and blacksmith's 
shop, with several dwelling houses, making quite a village-like ap- 
pearance. The hamlet also contains in a some what;, scattered way, 
two churches, Presbyterian and Baptist, two school-houses, a hall for 
meetings, etc. There are lodges of Good Templars and of the 
Knights of Pythias. The pride of the community, however, is a 
flourishing brass band, known far and wide as the "Lima bean band.'' 

Near the center of the valley, the highly-cultivated lands and 
handsome residence of Col. Russel Heath is one of the most interest- 
ing points in the whole valley of Sauta Barbara. Here were the first 
successes of the splendid English walnut tree, Col. Heath having been 
for several years noted as the largest walnut-grower in the "United 
States. He has also extensive orchards of other fruits, a large quan- 
tity of peaches, apricots, etc., being dried every season upon the place. 
Other valuable orchards are those of O. N. Cadwell (called Pomona's 
Retreat), E. H. Pierce, J. A. Blood, Sr., E. J. Knapp, Mrs. M. A. 
Ashley, F. H. Knight, T. L. Knap, Seth Olmsted and others. The 
walnut grows very slowly, not beginning to bear until ten years old. 



32 



SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 



After that, every year increases the nut crop, and as a provision for 
his posterity, no man can do better than to leave each of his children 
ten acres, or even five of the English walnut. Citrus fruits do fairly 
well in some places. Prunes have been found by Mr. E. J. Knapp, 
the principal person who has tried them, to be an excellent paying 
crop. Apricots have been a favorite fruit, bringing good prices and 
selling well in a dried form. Peaches, nectarines, figs, olives, pears, 
apples, quinces and peanuts do remarkably well. Besides the Lima 
bean, the ground produces tremendous crops of other varieties of 
beans, corn, squashes, etc. Flax thrives, but is objected to by some 
farmers on account of the rapid exhaustion of the soil on which it 
grows. It is raised for the seed only; the fibre is not utilized. The 
farms of Messrs. T. A. Cravens, H. Lewis, the Franklins, the Thur- 
lnottds, the Ogans, Messrs. Thomas Pye, Henry Fish, L. B. Hogue, 
P.- C. Higgins and others, who are generally largely interested in 
Limas, are perhaps representative rdaces. 

The perfume farm of H. H. Hall has been an object of much intell- 
igent curiosity. Pioses, violets, jasmines, tube roses and orange flow- 
ers are here cultivated for the express purpose of distillation for per- 
fumery. The plantation is now doing well, and in due course of time 
+he object will be accomplished, and perfumery become an exxDort of 
the country. The beautiful grounds of H. C. Ford, the artist, contain 
a collection of plants similar to that of Dr. Dimmick of Santa Bar- 
bara, in resx^ect that they have been brought from all parts of the 
world to ornament his garden. 

One of the chief delights of life in the Carpinteria is known as 
''going a clamming." Sometimes, when the tide is out, the clams may 
be gathered by the bushel, with no aid excex>t case-knives, fingers and 
toes. At other times they lie cleex^er, and parties come down to the 
shore with a team of horses and a plow; a furrow is slowly or>ened, 
and one follows with a basket to x>ick up the astonished clam. "With- 
out fear of contradiction, we assert that these Carpinteria clams, puri- 
fied by a wave or two and roasted on a fire of drift wood, on the beach, 
and taken immediately, are good ! 

In a thickly settled valley, like that of the Carpinteria, which 
contains a population of over 700 x>ersons, mostly farmers, it is irnx>os- 
sible to do more than glance at a few — not necessarily the most 
notable — just to give an idea to the stranger who reads of the earth's 
marvellous cax>abilities. From the sj)lendid acreage of the Bailard 
ranch to the smallest door-yard, everything sx>eaks of thrift and 
energy, with their natural consequence of prosperity. And no one 
can wonder that the inhabitants of the rich valley of the Carpinteria 
are the most contented race the world can show. 



■SAIs^A EATtSABA COTfNTT. ' 33 



CHAPTER YIIL 



GOLETA AND LA PATERA, 

yTfOLETA is situated about eight miles west of Santa Barbara, and 
-5g^ consists of a store, postofnee and public hall, blacksmith shop, 
'wagon s-hop, boot shop, school house, M. E. Church, a Baptist Church 
Just finished, an eating house, and about half a dozen dwelling houses. 
It has two daily coaches carrying the U. S. mail, and can boast of a pub- 
lic watering trough fed by a wind mill and tank. There are two prin- 
cipal roads, the one running through the town from east to west and 
3being the county road from Santa Barbara to Lompoc by the way of 
<Gaviota, and the other called the stage road, running north across the 
mountain to the town of Santa Ynez. The entire surrounding region 
ior a distance of several miles is commonly known as La Patera, a 
Spanish word which means "the duck pond." The shipping is done 
from More's wharf, situated about one mile south of the store. It is a 
commodious, well built structure, fully equal to the requirements of 
the farmers. D. M. Culver is the wharfinger. In the immediate 
vicinity of "the wharf is an extensive deposit of asphaltum, of excellent 
quality, which is shipped in large quantities to San Francisco. There 
are also several clam beds not far from the wharf, which are chiefly 
valuable to pleasure-seekers. The election precinct, of which Goleta 
is the polling place, comprises three school districts, Bafaela, Patera 
and Cathedral Oaks, At the last general election there were one hun- 
dred and twenty-five votes cast. The entire number of children be- 
tween the ages of five and seventeen, according to the last census re- 
ports, aggregates one hundred and eighty. The total population 
probably amounts to eight hundred. 

The social advantages are good. The schools are ably managed, 
and largely attended. The churches and Sunday Schools are well sus- 
tained. A flourishing lodge of Good Templars exists; and only one 
whisky saloon has been able to withstand the better influences which 
j)revail. The soil is deep and fertile. The bottom lands sometimes 
produce four tons of hay per acre. One ton of beans per acre is not 
an uncommon yield. Squashes of enormous size, are a specialty. 
They frequently exceed two hundred pounds in weight. A few years 
ago, one produced by Philander Kellogg reached such gigantic pro- 
portions, that when bisected, the cavity was found to be sufficient to 
allow the halves to be placed together enclosing his 18-year-old daugh- 
ter. Hence the story has gone forth that Goleta squashes sometimes 
contain 18-year-old girls. This has naturally led to numerous 
requests from parties at a distance (presumably bachelors) for some 
seed of that remarkable variety. Large orchards of apricots, peaches 
and English walnuts have recently been planted, the perfect adapta- 
bility of soil and climate having already been demonstrated on a 
smaller scale. 



34 SAXTA feAKBAEA COrSTTT. 

— — — » , 



A very important industry is the pampas- plume culture, inteo- 
cluced here by Joseph Sexton. Almost in-credible profits have been 
realized by those engaged in it. Tire -principal producers are Joseph 
Sexton, Frank E, Kellogg- and Ohas. Hails. 

For dairying purposes this section possesses unusual advantages. 
Owing to the richness and moistness of the soil, aided by the summer" 
fogs, an abundance of green feed can be had at all seasons of the- 
year without irrigation. There is a good srippfy of timber, principally 
live oak. Goleta is one of the chief sources on which Santa Barbara 
depends for fuel. The cost of stove-wood on the ground, is usually 
about four and' one-half dollars per cord. At present there is for sale- 
near Goleta-, about eight hundred acres of land, ranging in price from; 
one hundred and fifty, all the way down to five dollars per acre, de- 
pending upon quality of soil and location. 

The scenery is very desirable. On the north are the rugged Santa 
Ynez mountains and on the south a low range of hills called the Mesa, 
which with the exception of here and there a gap, hides the ocean 
from view. There are several mountain streams, some of the canons- 
of which contain charming little falls. To obtain a most magnificent 
view, one needs only to take the stage road and go to the summit of 
the mountain. Then with Santa Barbara and its surroundings to the 
east, the rolling- hills which stretch away toward Gaviota to the west,, 
the loveliest of valleys nestled at his feet, the glimmering waters of 
the Pacific beyond, with the dim blue islands in the distance, and be- 
hind him a wilderness of mountain peaks, he commands a scene of 
surpassing beauty and grandeur. It is a scene which that extensive 
traveler, the late Secretary W. H. Seward, is said to have pronounced 
the most magnificent he ever beheld. 

Among the most highly improved large ranches are those of Ell- 
wood Cooper, W. W. Hollister, S. P. Stow and John I>. Patterson. 
There are many smaller farms that are also well improved. Among 
them are those of Joseph Sexton, B. F. Pettis, J. O. Williams, Henry 
Hill, I. E, Martin, George Edwards, A. C. Scull, F.'E, Kellogg, Si%, 
A. E. Hollister, B. F. Woods and Charles Hails. 



CHAPTER IX. 



COAST EAXCHOS^-POINT COXGEPCIOX. 

IplEYOND the fine rural settlement of La Patera, the broad western 
fX3§ avenue is continued to the rancho lands of Col. W. W. Hollister. 
His principal entrance gate is about three miles from Goleta and the 
ranch house and buildings occupy a pleasant eminence, commanding 
a fine view of the surrounding country. The family home, however. 



"SA1S"TA "BARBARA COfNTY. • 35 

is reached through a narrow valley which at the end of two miles 
terminates apparently in a broad level opening, where the house 
stands, embowered in bloom and verdure, with its splendid orange 
•orchard in front, and a fine profusion of other fruits clustered about 
it. This lovely retreat is named Glen Annie, in honor of the Colonel's 
charming wife. The entire rancho. covers 3,600 acres, which allows 
for gardening on a generous scale. It embraces valley, mesa and 
grazing lands, and fronts the avenue for a mile and a half; running 
back to the mountains, through Glen Annie, about 3% miles. For 
years Col. Hollister has spent time and money on experiments in 
agriculture, to prove for the general benefit, of what the country is 
•capable. Twelve years ago, a correspondent of the New York World 
was inspired to utter the following prophecy, which has been fulfilled, 
more or less : "As I left this inviting spot I ventured to predict that 
ten years hence the Santa Barbara valley for sixty miles along the 
bay will, by reason of its unsurpassed climate and fertile soil, have 
become a very garden, in which this beautiful farm will stand promi- 
nent as the gem of Southern California, an example of what beneficent 
^Nature and the skilled hand of one of her worshippers can do toward 
creating an earthly paradise." 

"Ellwood," the celebrated olive-oil rancho, the property of Mr. 
Ellwood Cooper, joins Col. Hollister's on the west, and embraces 
about 2,000 acres, with a frontage on the avenue of three-fourths of a 
mile. This estate is noted also for the long lines of giant eucalypti, which 
mark the boundaries and division fences. It is said that Mr. Cooper 
planted 150,000 of these trees with his own hands. He has written a 
valuable book on the eucalyptus tree, recognized as a standard work. 
But his enthusiasm is for the olive, and he is the author of an ex- 
haustive treatise on olive culhire and olive oil, which said oil is 
produced on this rancho of most marvellous purity. He is also the 
President of the State Horticultural Society, and is particularly noted 
for the tireless energy with which he battles against pestiferous in- 
sect tribes, the special bane of horticulture in California. "Ellwood" 
is a favorite drive from Santa Barbara, and no tourist has done the 
country until the Hollister and Cooper ranchos have been, visited. 
The latter must not be understood as covered with olive and euca- 
lyptus trees. There are carefully tended orchards of citrus fruits, 
almonds, walnuts, and a. great variety of other fruits which thrive 
throughout the valley. 

Adjoining Hollister's on the east, back from the avenue, are the 
highly developed farms of W. W. Stow, of San Francisco, and his 
son, S. P. Stow. They own about 1,200 acres of farming, fruit and' 
grazing lands. Mr. Joseph J. Perkins, in his "Business Man's Esti- 
mate of Santa Barbara County," thus notes an indubitable truth 
regarding the three estates just mentioned. He says : "What has 



o(> SANTA BARBARA COtTNTY. 

been accomplished by Messrs. Cooper, Hollister and. Stow in these 
three canons can be repeated, with enterprise and means, in any or 
all of the canons along the coast line of the Santa Barbara valley." 

For some distance, the coast is a mere succession of canons or 
rather caiiadas, since they are often of a generous width. Las Armas,, 
branching out from- the "Ell wood " r rancho, is a delightful nook. 

The next canon, the Tecolote, is one of the most naturally 
beautiful of ail. It originally was* a part of the Dos Pueblos, and is- 
now the property of the Sturges brothers, 

Eagle canon, containing- about 1,200 aeres r has recently been, 
purchased by Mr. Isador Dreyfus, for £30,000. 

The rancho known as "Los Dos- Pueblos," in; remembrance of the- 
time when two Indian cities were situated upon it, was 1 patented to 
Nicholas A. Den for over 15,000 acres. But the heirs of Mr. Den 
now hold but 8,285 acres of the original grant. Upon this portion, 
there is a fine fruit orchard, but the land is mainly devoted to stock- 
raising. Near Dos Pueblos, to the west, is the- dairy farm of A. W, 
Buell, who has occupied the place for several years. The next ran- 
cho, called Canada del Corral, is owned by Senor Don Bruno Orella,. 
and' is chiefly devoted to sheep. 

The Tajiguas rancho of about 2200' acres, lately owned by the 
Young- brothers, has recently been purchased by Lawrence- W. More 
the price being $22,000. Upon this rancho are a number of 'bearing- 
olive, orange, lemon and lime trees, of the choicest varieties. 

The rancho of Our Lady of Refuge, Nuestra Senora del Refugio., 
owned by Col. Hollister and others, covers most of the remainder of the 
littoral belt under the protection of St. Barbara. In the midst of this 
''refuge," is the OaYiota landing, with a wharf and Postoffice. The 
road, which has followed the beach for miles, now turns sharply to- 
the north and in the course of a mile or two reaches the Gaviota Pass; 
a natural chasm about sixty feet in width, with its walls of solid rock 
rising almost ijerpendicularly. Here the road crosses the Santa Tnez. 
range, and descends to the valley of Santa Yhez 

A few miles beyond Gaviota is Point Conception. The Coast Sur- 
vey description calls it "a high promontory, stretching boldly into 
the ocean and terminating abruptly." It is more than two hundred 
feet above the ocean, and is conspicuous from land or sea in every di- 
rection, for many miles. The view from there is widely extended and 
magnificent. Here the government has erected a l>eaeon Tight to warn 
the mariner far out at sea. The light itself is two hundred and fifty 
feet above the water and can be plainly seen from the heights behind 
Santa Barbara, more than forty miles away in a direct line. From 
this direction the point appears like an island. The illuminating- ap- 
paratus is of the first order of the system of Fresnel, and exhibit^ a 



SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 37 

revolving white light, showing a flash every half minute. The light- 
house is a brick building, plastered, with a low tower rising from 
the center, also of brick, covered with white plaster. The government 
requires a daily record of observations to be kept, and the keeper and 
his family are also expected to extend the hospitalities of the house 
to visitors, besides keeping the light and lighthouse in order, and 
holding themselves always prepared to relieve any ship-wrecked 
crews who might be cast upon the point. The fog-whistle is located 
on the edge of the sea wall, directly below the lighthouse, and the 
•operating machinery is so situated that the waves dash over it. 
During thick weather the whistle is heard once in every 52 seconds, 
night and day. A fog bell is also used, which weighs 3136 pounds, 
and is sounded every 13% seconds in foggy weather. 
This is the end of the Santa Barbara Vallev! 



CHAPTER X. 



SANTA YXEZ. 

|flE upper valley of the Santa Ynez comprises 223,185 acres, 
according to the table on page 12, and it is estimated that not 
less than 50,000 acres are adapted to agriculture and horticulture, 
8ince the table alluded to was compiled, the valley has been put 
under cultivation to a large extent. It is estimated that the grain 
shipped from Santa Ynez this year will amount to 30,000 tons, of 
which the greater portion is wheat. It is, in fact, a wheat-growing 
district, and is destined at some future day to furnish homes for 
thousands of happy families. The river first makes its debut in the 
county of Santa Barbara, on the wild and mouutainous rancho called 
Los Prietos y Najalayegua. This is a region of cinnabar, and quicksilver 
mines were once opened, but have been allowed to relapse into ruins. 
It is now chiefly interesting to sportsmen, although many of its small 
valleys are susceptible of cultivation. The San Marcos rancho be- 
longs to the Pierce brothers of San Francisco, and contains a large 
proportion of very excellent land; but it is at present only used for 
stock-raising. On the opposite side of the river, the Tequepis rancho 
is under the same ownership. Next to the San Marcos, the Canada de 
los Pinos, known as the College ranch, is the property of the Catholic 
Church. The ''College" which is - responsible for the sobriquet, 
a school for boys, was kept up for several years, taught by priests of 
the Catholic Church. The rancho is managed under the direction of 
the Catholic Bishop of Southern California. A large portion of it is 
leased to various tenants, and brought under cultivation. Some of 
the choicest land, purchased by Mr. Cornelius Murphy, has been 



ss 



SANTA BARBAE A COUNTY. 



built upon and otherwise improved. It is mainly devoted to wheat 
and the raising of fine stock. 

About two miles from Mr. Murphy's place is the little town of 
Santa Ynez; a nucleus, of which great things are prophesied. It is 
two or three miles from the river, and perhaps thirty-five from Santa 
Barbara/by way of the toll road over the San Marcos Pass. It contains 
a postoffice, express office, blacksmith shop, hotel and two stores, one 
belonging to Mr. H. Watkins, and the other a branch of the Goldtree 
firm of San Luis Obispo. 

At a short distance from this little town the Hayne Bros, are de- 
voting themselves especially to olive culture. Several thousand trees 
have been transplanted from Montecito and set out upon their 
ranch this year, and are said to be doing admirably, as well as those 
planted in other years. At rjresent they are raising also considerable 
wheat. 

Little is left of what was once the Mision Santa Ynez, in this 
vicinity. But in the least ruinous of the buildings a stock of general 
merchandise is displayed for the benefit of the neighboring farmers. 
About three miles from the Mission and three from Santa Ynez, the 
three places forming the three corners of an ideal triangle, is the ru- 
dimentary settlement called Ballard's. Here the main roads meet; 
one connecting the valley with the county seat by way of the Gaviota 
Pass, and one passing over the range at the San Marcos Pass, which, 
at its summit, is just fifteen miles distant from Santa Barbara. The 
land in the neighborhood of Ballard's is of excellent quality. Several 
thousand fruit trees have been set out here within the last two years. 
There is a postoffice, store, blacksmith's shop and school house at 
Ballard's. 

Opposite the^College Rancho, between the Santa Y'nez river and 
mountains, is the Lomas de la Purification rancho, owned by the heirs 
of Captain Thomas W. Moore. It is a fine property, devoted mainly 
to stock raising. Following the river, on the same bank, is another 
rancho belonging to the Pierce brothers, called the Nojoqui. 

The San Carlos de Jonata is the only remaining rancho of great 
extent in this district. It is composed partly of fine bottom land, 
partly of rolling and hill lands; much of it is well adapted to grain. It 
is well watered and for dairying purposes has no superior. The 
Childs postoffice, on this rancho, is about five miles from Santa Ynez # 
There is also a store and a school house in the same vicinity. 

One of the finest characteristics of the upper Santa Ynez Yalley, 
as a whole, is the abundance of pure clear water. The river itself and 
numerous little creeks that empty into it on either side give the land 
an exceptional value. Its horticultural capabilities are just beginning 
to be understood. Apples, xDears, peaches, quinces and the small 
fruits do w r ell. Prices have advanced somewhat in the last year or 



SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 39 

two. Fine land can no longer be bought for a dollar an acre. In fact, 
it now varies from $5 to $40 per acre. This is a wide variation; bnt 
the quality of the land varies widely, from good grazing to the best 
wheat and fruit lands. Among the causes which have contributed to 
the advance, may be numbered the narrow gauge railroad at their 
doors, the wakening of owners to the true value of their property, and 
lastly, the comparatively small amount in the market for sale. 



CHAPTER XI. 



THE LOMPOC TEMPERANCE COLONY. 

^ny^HIS, one of the most famous temperance colonies in the United 
v iJL^ States, was founded in the Fall of 1874, in the most westerly por* 
tion of Santa Barbara county. The history of this colony is briefly told . 
In the Winter of 1869, while on a business trip to Santa Barbara 
county, Mr. W. W. Broughton, now residing at Lompoc, conceived 
the idea of organizing a temperance colony in Santa Barbara county 
if lands suitable could be procured. About the middle of December, 
Mr. Broughton met with George H. Long, then Superintendent of 
the San Julian, Lompoc and other ranchos devoted to sheep and own- 
ed by the Messrs. Hollister and Dibblees. Mr. Long was favorably 
impressed with the idea and enthusiastically recommended the Lom- 
poc valley as the place of all places for such a community to locate, 
and on the day following the interview Mr. Broughton visited the 
property. Finding it all that Mr. Long recommended it to be, and 
more, Mr. Broughton immediately returned to Santa Cruz, his home 
at that time, and enlisted Judge E. H. Heacock in the enterprise, who 
immediately opened a correspondence with Col. W. W. Hollister, rel- 
ative to purchasing the Lornpoc rancho for colony purposes. The 
Colonel responded that the rancho had not yet been patented, but as 
soon as the title could be perfected it would be for sale. Something 
like one year passed before anything further was done; when the 
Colonel wrote the Judge that the title was perfected and the property, 
comprising about 47,000 acres, was for sale at $300,000. Terms were 
immediately agreed upon and a stock company called the "Lompoc 
Valley Land Company" organized, with a capital stock of $300,000. 
The stock was divided into one hundred shares of §3,000 each and 
soon sufficient w r as subscribed to warrant a forward movement, and a 
preliminary meeeting was called to learn the object and aim of each 
subscriber. At that meeting it was developed that the largest stock 
holders designed going into sheep and cattle raising, which would 
leave the farmer to fence or to be continually annoyed with the herds 
about him. This meeting was anything but harmonious and resulted 
in the withdrawal of those intending to embark in general farming, 



40 



SANTA BAEBABA COUNTY. 



and the enterprise was abandoned. Up to this time the agriculturist- 
had no protection, except by constructing expensive fences, and this, 
was out of the question in the greater part of the State, and espec- 
ially so where stock growing was the chief industry. 

Col. Hollister had for years been advocating a trespass law, that 
would compel the stock growers to fence or herd and allow the farmer 
some chance to build up a home unmolested. As soon as the Legis- 
lature went into session, the Colonel procured the passage of a tres- 
pass law that abolished the necessity of expensive fencing to protect 
crops. And from that law dates the new era of progress and prosper- 
ity of Southern California, where the law was made applicable. 

Immediately after the passage of this law, negotiations were again 
opened for the purchase of the ranch and the terms agreed upon were 
$500,000; the trespass law enhanced the value of real estate two-fifths 
and it found ready purchasers. Suffice it to say, that in a few weeks 
the stock was all taken and the company fully organized and survey- 
ors set at work subdividing the lands. The grand sales to stock- 
holders — for no others w T ere permitted to bid — commenced on Novem- 
ber 9th, 1874, and continued for four days; when it was found that less 
than one-third of the property had been sold for $750,000. 

Immediately after the sales the colonists commenced moving in and 
soon two hundred families were domiciled within the colony, and the 
great majority tenacious of the principles on wdrich the colony was 
founded. But this basic principle w T as destined to be infracted and 
early in the history of the colony we find some fifty or more 
ladies one afternoon entering the colony drug store and summarily 
suppressing the traffic that had been illicitly conducted. Later on, a 
saloon was blown to atoms, and lastly, one was torn down which re- 
sulted in the prosecution of one of the leading citizens at Santa 
Barbara, wdien a jury of twelve men, within one hour after the case 
was submitted, brought in a verdict of not guilty. Thus, it is to be 
hoped, has ended the business of transgressing the principles of the 
colony, which now numbers between four and five hundred families, 
constituting one of the most intelligent and moral communities in 
the State. 

There are nine schools within the colony, with a magnificent school 
edifice in the town iDroper. The religious sentiment is represented by 
most all denominations, the chief est being the North and South Meth- 
odists who have each fine commodious churches. The town has all 
the needed appliances for progress and quick interchange — a daily 
mail, express and telegraph — with several mercantile houses of all 
kinds, two physicians, one drug store, two hotels, one jewelry store, 
one harness shop, two livery stables, and two blacksmith shops, with 
two good wharves over which freight is received and shipped. The 



SANTA BAKBABA COUNTY. 41 

town is located 16 miles from Los Alamos, 30 from Santa Maria, 28 
from Guadalupe, 25 from Santa Ynez, and 60 from Santa Barbara. 
The present means of reaching the colony is by steamer to Gaviota, 
thence by stage to Lompoc, or by steamer to Port Harford, thence by 
rail and stage to Lompoc. There is a good prospect of having the 
railroad pass through the town of Lompoc on its way to Santa Bar- 
bara, when, should that route be decided upon, the town may hope 
to reach a population of thousands and become one of the busiest cen- 
ters in all the western portion of Santa Barbara county, for then the 
adjacent lands adapted to general farming, fruit and dairying would 
soon come into market and find ready and willing takers at enhanced 
prices. 

Few have any idea of the mammoth ranchos lying within a radius 
of twenty miles about the Lompoc Colony, and which, with railroad 
facilities connecting the colony with Santa Barbara and Port Harford, 
would converge their trade and business to that point. The most 
valuable of the properties are as follows: San Julian, Cojo, La 
Espada, Sal Si Puedes, Santa Rita, Santa Rosa, Purisima, and the Jesus 
Maria. [For number of acres in each see page 12.] Of all these val- 
uable properties only one, the Santa Pita rancho, is offered for sale 
and settlement in homestead tracts. This valuable property lies 
immediately east of and adjoining the Lompoc Colony, and is now be- 
ing sold in tracts from five acres up to six hundred acres to suit the 
purchaser. These lands embrace some of the finest fruit, grain and 
grazing farms in the county, and are offered at fair prices. 

The lands of all this section are adapted to the production of grain 
of all kinds, vegetables in great variety and deciduous fruits of the 
choicest quality. There are many fine small tracts of suburban town 
property for sale in the town of Lompoc and often good opportuni- 
ties to purchase farms at a fair advance to cover improvements. This 
colony is' doubtless one of the very best communities in which to rear 
a family, and it is of such principally that the community consists. 
The people are fortunate in having a local paper, the Lompoc Record, 
that has ever defended its principles and advocated its best interests 
in every particular. By consulting its columns the seeker for a home 
in the colony can be informed of everything of local interest. 

The town of Lompoc is nine miles inland from the ocean, but its 
lands and settlement extend to the beach, affording a varied scenery 
and very pretty and attractive drives. The people are happy, pros- 
perous and contented, and should be, for no portion of our great State 
is blessed with greater natural advantages. 



i2 SANTA BAKBABA COUNTYV 



CHAPTER XII. 



SANTA RITA COLONY — RANCHOS SAN JULIAN,. SANTA ROSA ANI> JESUfe 

MARIA. 

Svr^HE broad plains and rolling lands that form- the- lower valley of 
^JL^ the Santa Ynez, and which, according to the table on page 12, 
are understood as the Lompoc district, have been hitherto the partic- 
ular strongholds of the sheep interest. In 1874, the firm of Hollister 
& Bibblees owned a principality of 140,000 acres of land in this county 
alone, having' an ocean frontage of more than twenty miles and all 
this devoted to sheep. In those days the traveler might ride for miles 
and miles, seeing no glimpse of human life except an occasional 
lonely herder or vacfuero. But ono by one, the vast ranchos are 
being partitioned into smaller domains, until irpon the plains once 
sacred to roving bands of sheep may now be- noticed fields of golden, 
grain, with cosy homesteads and neat school houses at intervals. 

The Santa Rita colony is a community of about fifty families, 
located on public lands found vacant between the Santa Rita and 
Santa Rosa ranchos„ It lies eastward from Lompoc, eight miles. 
The temperance sentiments of Lompoc also pervade this colony, it 
being principally made up of families who were at one time residents 
of Lompoc. The community is a prosperous one. Since the title 
(which had been in dispute) was confirmed to the settlers, they all 
feel wealthy on account of the enhanced value of their property. The 
land is similar to that directly around Lompoc, of the same quality 
and productiveness, and with a climate which is, if anything, somewhat 
superior. Fine homes can be purchased here in 160-acre tracts, at a 
very moderate- price, considering the soil, climate and desirable sur- 
roundings. The natural outlet of this community is Lomx^oc; and 
when there shall be good roads between these two colonies and a 
proper bridge to span the Santa Ynez river (which sometimes rises to 
unseemly heights in the rainy season) no other place would be ax>t to 
be sought for business intercourse. 

The broad acreage of the San Julian is still devoted to grazing. 
This is the largest rancho in this district and lies southerly from the 
Santa Ynez river. Its magnificent extent of fine rolling lands, hill 
and bottom lands, well watered and timbered, as yet untouched 
by the slaves of Ceres. The Santa Rosa rancho, north of the river 
and just west of the San Carlos de Jonata, is also a magnificent prop- 
erty, belonging to J. W. Cooper. It too, is well timbered, well 
watered, and w T ith fine tracts of bottom lands, and broad, rolling 
lands, which would, if divided and settled, make a number of com- 
fortable farms. A large £>ortion of this rancho is especially fitted for 
the dairying business. 



SAXTA CAUSAE A TJOTJNTY. 43 

The Jesus Maria rancho, owned by J. Ben Burton, is ■washed 
mpon its western border by the Pacific Ocean. Perhaps "it might 
.more properly be classed with the ranchos of the Los Alamos valley, 
•although the Santa Ynez river flows along its southern boundary; but 
the Los Alamos river, called here, however, the San Antonio, runs 
through the northern portion of the rancho. It v.ould well make two 
principalities, and thus be classed in both valleys, and this is the way 
in whieh the question was decided on page 12. The San Antonio 
<creek is noted for being the most southern stream which is ascended 
by salmon in the season. They come into this stream every year from 
the sea and are caught there — not however, in great numbers. Some 
4,000 acres of the Jesus Maria have been put in grain this year, mostly 
wheat. All grains succeed well. Much of the land is rented out; 
some of it to dairymen. With its two rivers and numerous springs, 
the rancho seems especially adapted to this business. In fact this 
might be said of a large majority of the lands bordering both on the 
upper and on the lower Santa Ynez. 



CHAPTER XIII. 



M 



l.os ALAMOS. 

?HE third natural division of Santa Barbara county, the valley of 
Los Alamos, lies principally inland, its larger portion, contain- 
ing the town of Los Alamos, being twenty-five or more miles from 
the coast. It has been described as a long, narrow valley, lying be- 
tween the Santa Ynez and the Santa Maria valleys. It is watered by 
the Los Alamos arroyo. which rises in the San Rafael mountains, 
and empties into the Pacific Ocean, after traversing the county for 
about forty miles. But although the valley of Los Alamos is classed 
as a "narrow" valley, there are large areas of rolling lands on each 
side, which are rich and productive, not to mention the fertile valleys 
between, opening into it. The soil of the valley itself is of rich adobe 
loam or sandy loam, and seems to be especially adapted to wheat- 
growing. It is estimated that in the district of Los Alamos, (seepage 
12) there are 40,000 acres of the finest agricultural land. Although 
the valley is ostensibly drained by the arroyo, yet as it occasionally 
disappears from sight, as noted in a previous chapter, wells become 
necessary for domestic purposes. Yet water is always obtainable at 
a moderate depth, and there is no necessity for irrigation, except in 
young orchards. 

The name Los Alamos means "the cottonwoods," and there were 
once many of these trees upon the ranch. The following description 
of the town is taken from the Los Alamos Herald^ with the kind per- 
mission of the writer, S. R. I. Sturgeon, Esq.: 



14 SAXTA BAEBAKA COtTNTT. 

Id the year 1S67 Mr. John S. Bell obtained by purchase from 
Jose Antonio De La Guerra y Carrillo, that portion of the rancho on 
which the town of Los Alamos is situated, and for ten years devoted 
it to the raising of sheep and. cattle, laboring* all that time under the 
idea prevalent among old Californians, that nothing but grass would 
grow without irrigation. This stu,te of tilings lasted until 1876, he 
having in the meantime in 1869 built the hon&e in which he now re- 
sides, since which time his residence has been in the vicinity of this 
place. In 1873 the stage route, which previous to (hat year had 
passed through the Tinequaic or- Foxen Ranch, was changed to the 
road it now travels, and through La Graciosa «to Guadalupe, and the 
building now occupied by L. Kahn as a restaurant, was erected for 
the purpose of furnishing meals to the passengers by stage, and also 
a barn to furnish accommodation to the stage horses. In 1876 the 
first attempt at farming was made by C. D. Patterson, and proved 
such a great success that the future of the valley as a producing cen- 
ter, was assured, and seeing this result in the near future, Mr. A, 
Leslie, still one of our most enterprisiug merchants, built a residence 
and opened a store for the benefit of the future farmers of the vicin- 
ity, followed by Mr. Snyder, proprietor of the Union Hotel building 
and the Los Alamos Sample Rooms, which has since grown into one 
of the best hotels in this end of Santa Barbara county. 

In 1878 Mr. Patterson built the first livery, feed and sale stable and 
has since found it so profitable that he has kept adding to it year by 
year, until at the present time he is not only doing a fine business in 
that line but has accumulated sufficient tovown one of the finest farms 
in the valley, as an example of what can be done by a capital of en- 
ergy and perseverance. In 1877, Mr. Bell, in conjunction with Dr. 
J. B. Shaw, who had become owner of a portion of the Los Alamos 
rancho laid out the town of Los Alamos, which now has one hundred 
dwelling houses and all occupied. 

In 1878, Mr. Bell, to further insure the prosperity of the new 
town and its immediate vicinity, built a fine steam flouring mill, 
which since that time has been run under the management of John 
A. Purkiss, one of the best flour makers in Southern California, and 
who has so far been able to supply the surrounding country with all 
the flour needed, without as yet ascertaining the full capacity for pro- 
duction of his mill. In 1882, Mr. Peter C >i;ier built the first public 
hall in the place, which is now occupied by the I. O. G. T. The 
lower floor is used as a justice's court room and carriage painting 
establishment. 

We have a nice school house on land donated by Dr. Shaw, for 
that purpose. 

"We have not as. yet a court house but we have a branch jail, 
which, if not ornamental, is at least useful, as therein we give 



SANTA BAEBARA COUNTY. 45 

lodging and meals to all prisoners from Santa Maria on their way to 
the Hotel Broughton, and are equally willing to accommodate our 
friends from Lompoc, only they are so very temperate in all things, 
that it would appear as if they had no candidates for our hospitality. 

Of merchants, we have three dealing in general merchandise — A. 
Leslie, Laughlin Bros., and A. Weill & Co., from whom or through 
whom you can procure anything from a needle to an anchor, princi- 
pally the needle. Also one dealer in watches, clocks, jewelry, Yan- 
kee notions, canned goods, fruit and a variety of articles, from 
shaving your pocket to shaving your face, as in addition to all the 
articles they have for sale, one of the partners sells his skill as a 
barber. 

We have two blacksmith and wagon-making shops where all kinds 
of repairing of agricultural machinery is done, or new work built, 
and one in which horseshoeing is a specialty. 

About fifteen months ago the Pacific Coast R. R. reached this place, 
where they have erected a fine passenger and freight depot, water 
tanks and all the buildings necessary for carrying on their business; 
also a telegraph Jine, putting us into telegraphic communication 
with the outside world. For the last year we have had a lumber yard 
with a sufficient supply and assortment of lumber for the immediate 
neighborhood. 

And now if we had a good hardware establishment, we would be 
ready to enter into competition with any of the other towns in our 
end of the county." 

In addition to the points noted by Mr. Sturgeon, we must add 
that the town is also furnished with a lawyer, (S. R. I. Sturgeon, 
Esq.) and a newspaper, the Los Alamos Herald. Religious services 
are provided by the M. E. Church, the minister in charge of the 
circuit supplying also Santa Rita, Ballard's and Santa Ynez. Of 
Societies, the Knights of Pythias, A. O. U. W., I. O. G. T. and 
Chosen Friends are represented. 

Part of the Los Alamos and the adjoining rancho of La Laguna, 
are owned by Dr. J. B. Shaw, whose residence is in the city of Santa 
Barbara. In 1867 he bought three leagues of La Laguna, of Celadonio 
Gutierrez and two leagues of Los Alamos of Jose Antonio and Antonio 
Maria de la Guerra. This was a few months previous to Mr. Bell's 
purchase. The town was built upon lands belonging to both. A 
large portion of Dr. Shaw's rancho is under cultivation, partly by 
himself and partly by tenants settled upon it. Mr. Bell's lands are 
also farmed to quite an exteut, but some portions are devoted to sheep 
and stock-raising generally. 

The wheat grown in this valley and ground in the flouring mill 
by Mr. Purkiss, is said to be of so fine a quality and so sweet to the 



46 



SANTA BAEBABA COUNTY. 



taste, that the children of the valley cry for it in preference to the 
finest cake. For this we have the testimony of Dr. Shaw himself. 

Next the Los Alamos rancho is the Todos Santos, belonging to the 
Newhall estate. The Casmalia rancho, on the coast, just north of the 
Jesus Maria, was purchased two years ago of Mr. Burton, by Merritt 
& Phcenix. It is a fine property, rolling lands, used for sheep and 
dairies. It is well adapted for cutting up into small farms, being 
well watered and with excellent soil. 



CHAPTEE XIV. 

SANTA MAEIA VABLET. 

cVaI^E are indebted to Mr. James Morse for the following descrip- 
yJQI^ tion of the Santa Maria Valley, with its two settlements, 
Santa Maria and Guadalupe: 

Santa Maria Valley, as generally understood, is almost wholly in 
Santa Barbara county. A small portion of it called Oso Flaco, bor- 
dering on the ocean, is in San Luis Obispo county; but as Oso Flaco 
is a part of the Guadalupe rancho, which lies mainly in Santa Bar- 
bara county, I think I may as well include it in my description of 
this portion of Santa Barbara county. 

Santa Maria valley runs due east from the ocean and is about 
twenty-five miles long by an average of five miles wide (not including 
the sandy plains on the south side) . East of this valley and connect- 
ing with it at Fugler's Point is the valley of the Sisquoc, which con- 
tinues due east some ten miles and is two miles wide in the widest 
pait. On the south side of the valley and about four miles from the 
ocean is a beautiful lake, which is about three miles long by half a 
mile wide. This lake is a great resort for ducks and wild geese; white 
swans also frequent this lake in the winter. 

Nearly every acre of land in this valley is good agricultural land. 
The Guadalupe rancho, containing over 32,000 acres, covers the west 
end of the valley. As a cloud of litigation has hung over this and 
the adjoining rancho on the east, there has never been a permanent, 
healthful settlement. The land is mostly a rich black loam and adobe 
mixed, and in favorable years has produced enormous crops of barley, 
which seems to be the crop best suited to the soil and climate. Some 
years wheat does well but is not so sure as barley. It has been proven 
that much of the soil is peculiarly adapted to beets for the purpose 
of the manufacture of sugar. It is also well suited to the production 
of squashes, beans and potatoes. Mr. T. S. Brown raised a Peerless 
potato last year that weighed seven and one-quarter pounds! Fruit 
does well if protected- by wind-breaks. Mr. Brown also raised a 
gloria mundi apple the same year that weighed nineteen ounces and an 



SANTA BARBAKA COUNTY. 47 

Alexandria, seventeen ounces! He also had good cherries. He has 
an excellent wind-break of cypress. This rancho is well watered* 
there being several small never -failing streams of water and several 
sloughs. Plenty of water is obtained at a depth of ten to fifteen feet 
but is not of good quality. At a depth of one hundred feet very ex- 
cellent water is struck, which rises in the pipes to within six or eight 
feet of the surface. There are several flowing wells on low ground. 
On the Oso Flaco are hundreds of acres of willow monte, and on the 
hills on the south is an abundance of oak wood. The west end of the 
rancho, for about four miles from the ocean, is almost entirely de- 
voted to dairying. There are at least twenty-five dairies. These are 
mostly owned by Swiss, and all are engaged in making butter, only 
one dairy being devoted to cheese-making. From sixty to three hun- 
dred cows are milked on these dairy farms, and it is a very profitable 
business. 

The town of Guadalupe was mostly built up in the years 1872 and 
1873, and has been a very busy town, doing nearly all the business of 
the whole valley until the last two or three years, since which time 
Santa Maria has gained the ascendancy. 

The Laguna rancho joins the Guadalupe on the east and is a fine 
body of land. Many hundred acres have never yet been plowed. 

East of the Laguna rancho is the Santa Maria settlement. This 
settlement was made in the year 1869 on a large tract of Government 
land containing about 60 square miles — sufficient for 240 farms. Dur- 
ing the first three years these settlers had very hard times. Under 
the most favorable circumstances the pioneers in a new country have 
to experience many deprivations and hardships, but these settlers 
suffered much more than the average pioneer. From the .first they 
had to contest their claims in the courts against the claimants of the 
Laguna and Guadalupe ranchos, and besides the grasshoppers and 
wild horses destroyed almost their entire crops for three years. They 
had to haul all their lumber from Port Harford, about thirty miles 
distant, and pay for rough lumber there 830 per thousand feet. Some 
of these settlers had to take their horses into the mountains to keep 
them from starving, and kill deer and dry the venison, and gather 
honey to sell in order to buy food and clothing for their families. 

In 1868 Pat O'Neil started a store at La Graciosa where a 
few families had settled. In 1870 Win. L. Adams started a similar 
store about two miles west of the present town of Santa Maria. 
Though he had but small capital, he had good backers in San Francisco 
and through them and good financiering he was enabled to greatly 
assist the settlers through these first years of their distress. Here he 
still stands behind the counter in the old dilapidated store, regardless 
of the fact that a busy and flourishing town has sprung up less than 



48 



SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 



two miles away. And many of his old customers, still grateful for 
the many great favors he has shown them in their time of need, drive 
through town and go to him for their goods. He has built up a beau- 
tiful home, with orchard and vineyard, and eucalyptus wind-breaks; 
is the possessor of thousands of acres of good land, many thousand 
sheep, cattle and hogs. He has earned it all through honest, fair 
dealing, and enjoys the esteem of all who know him. 

The price of land has doubled, during the last two or three years, 
and improved farms now sell at $40 per acre; unimproved from $8 to 
$20. The experimental period has passed. The people of this valley 
are now very prosperous and contented (many are not contented be- 
cause they cannot get hold of all the land they want) . It is proven 
that fruit will do well here, and in a few years a cannery and many 
drying houses will be needed. A railroad running through the valley 
to Port Harford satisfies a long felt want. The climate is very healthful 
and is every year getting more agreeable; society is good; schools, 
churches and fraternal orders are plentiful, and a people thus blessed 
ought to happy and contented. 

The town of Santa Maria, located 10 miles east from Guadalupe 
has a post and express office, a weekly paper, (the Times) two hotels, 
several stores, blacksmiths, wheelwrights, etc. East of the valley 
proper are many beautiful, and very fertile small valleys and canons, 
and elevated plains and rolling hills, sufficient to support hundreds 
of families and also a prosperous town. And it is only a question of a 
few years when a town will grow up somewhere in the neighborhood. 
There are already three stores, a blacksmith and wheelwright shop, 
and a church scattered through that section. It is supposed there is 
considerable good government land yet in this end of the county, but 
if there is it is all claimed by grant-holders. 

Before the railroad was built Point Sal and Morritto were the prin- 
cipal points of shipment for the products of this section. Point Sal 
is now dismantled, but Morritto' s wire suspension chute landing is 
still running. About one and one-half miles from Morritto is a gyp- 
sum quarry of very excellent quality which is being steadily mined 
and shipped to San Francisco. 

Along the coast of this valley gold is found in the black sands of 
the beach in quantities that pays well at certain seasons of the year to 
wash. Near Mussel Rocks, Abernethy and St. Ores washed these 
sands with success for three or four seasons. Now the claim is own- 
ed and worked by Abernethy and Wall. Three men often wash out 
8150 per week. Santa Maria is about 30 miles by rail south from San 
Luis Obispo, and 40 from Port Harford, and about 80 northwest from 
Santa Barbara. 




nj^R^c; 



Points Visited by Tourists in and About 
Santa Barbara. 




Fxmtsb del Castillo— Tlie Arlington.— The 
Old Mission. 

< *» G ^| VEEY good idea of three salient points in the city of Santa 



Barbara is given in the above picture. First, the Punta del 
Castillo, showing the curve on the beach between Stearns' wharf and 
the rocky point, with the slow sea crawling up the sand, the marks 
of carriage-wheels, and upon the bluff the mansion and grounds of Mr- 
Dibblee. This is always a favorite spot for idle tourists. The walk 



50 



SAXTA BARBARA COUNTY. 



from the wharf to the point — about half a mile — just serving to give 
one a good appetite for his dinner. A road was once built through 
the rocks, that carriages might drive beyond the point, where a sec- 
ond curve of beach lies below the cliffs; but it was found impracti- 
cable to keep it in order, owing to a peculiar fancy of the waves for 
tossing things carelessly about, and although considerable money had 
been spent upon it by a public-spirited lady, the attempt was finally 
abandoned. The road-making changed the point in some respects, 
and obliterated a shelf known as the "lovers' seat," where formerly 
one could sit above the surf upon the seaward side of the rock, wholly 
hidden from strollers along the beach. % 

The centre of the illustration gives a view of the Arlington, a 
structure which is a source of pride to every citizen of Santa Barbara. 
The picture, however, fails to portray the beautiful grounds sur- 
rounding the hotel and covering five acres. It gives no idea of the 
always emerald lawns, dotted with palins and other sightly growths, 
of the gay beds of choice flowers, the circle of lilies about the foun- 
tain, the tennis-lawn and deer park, or the thickly-growing groves in 
the back-ground. The Arlington is the most capacious and finely 
appointed hotel in Southern California, designed especially for first- 
class patronage. Besides its handsome suites of rooms, one of which 
is called "the Princess suite," having been occupied by the 
Princess Louise, there are ample parlors and wide airy halls; and 
from the broad verandas filled in the season with chattering groups 
of tourists from morn till night, a magnificent view is £>resented of 
the mountains and ocean with the distant islands lying like ame- 
thysts upon the blue horizon. 

Lastly, the striking Moorish architecture of the old Mission is 
shown, with its long facade and two white towers, though it appears 
in the picture far less prominent and picturesque than it is in reality. 
It was built cf sandstone from the neighboring hills, with walls over 
five feet in thickness and supported by heavy buttresses. In front of 
the massive edifice still remain the ruins of a large fountain of or- 
nate workmanship. The church is high and narrow, 150 feet long, 
with an organ loft at one end and the high altar at the other. In the 
vault beneath lies the remains of the first Bishop of the two Califor- 
nias, Don Francisco Garcia Diego, and over his tomb still hangs the 
l>relate's antique sombrero. The vault was recently re-opened for the 
interment of the good old Father Sanchez, who had ministered for 
years at the altar. The walls inside the church are covered with 
paintings, some of a most eccentric character. In the belfries of 
solid masonry still swing the ancient bells; although one which had 
become useless by reason of a crack in its mighty sides, was recently 
recast and returned to the Mission, as good as new, and can once 
more mingle with the somewhat harsh and dissonant chime. To the 



SANTA BAKBAEA COUNTY. 51 

left of the church is a wing, one hundred and thirty feet in length, 
which with the pillars and arches of its front corridor is still in fair 
preservation and inhabited by what remains of the grey friars of St. 
Francis, being the only monastery in the United States. The good 
Padres have in their possession many of the ancient archives of the 
Missions, and lists of the flocks and herds of by-gone days, invaluable 
to a historian, and which Mr. H. H. Bancroft, in his grand historical 
work, has noted as the most complete of any to which he had access. 
On one side is the large old olive orchard and all about are the re- 
mains of the old dwellings of the Indian converts, though much has 
been 'displaced in the last ten years. 

It is well known that the Fathers selected the choicest sites along 
the coast for their own use; it is evident they were men of sound 
judgment and clear sighted prophecy in many respects, and culti- 
vated tastes. In the location of this Mission they were particularly 
happy; building stone, fuel and timber were abundant and an inex- 
haustible supply of mountain water close at hand; they were suffi- 
ciently removed from the sea to be secure from hostile attacks from 
that quarter with such naval ordnance as was then in vogue, and on 
an eminence which swept the valley east and west for many miles; its 
white domes being the first object to meet the eye of the traveler from 
whatever direction he might approach; the position was commanding, 
the soil rich and kindly, the scenery unsurpassed. The keen-eyed 
Padres had marked the place on their frequent trips along the coast, 
both by land and sea, during the seventeen years they had been in 
the country. But we do not propose here to give a history of the 
Mission; our province is but to point out to the traveler the sights of 
Santa Barbara, and of these the Mission is not the least worthy of a 
pilgrimage. 

SURF BATHING. 

Between the Punta del Castillo and Stearns' wharf, about half a 
mile of beach is the favorite resort of bathers. Above all other at- 
tractions, the possession of this beach and the facilities it offers for a 
dip into the surf, is the peculiar advantage enjoyed by Santa Bar- 
bara over all other cities of Southern California. A glance at the 
tables of temperature will show its superiority to Santa Cruz, the 
only bathing-place which rivals it upon this coast. In the South it 
can have no rival. Los Angeles and San Bernardino are inland, San 
Diego lacks the ocean beach. There is a pleasant superstition abroad, 
which has been encouraged by careless writers, that sea-bathing is 
possible at any season of the year. It may be, for a strong and 
healthy swimmer — and indeed we cannot deny that some enthusiasts 
are ready to tempt the waves every month in the year. But we 
would not advise a delicate invalid to wade into the breakers until the 
beach has been properly warmed by the summer sun. Aside from 



52 SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 

the half-mile curve alluded to, the level strip of sand reaches away 
beyond the wharf; and when the tide is low enough to round the 
points, it is a most delightful drive, even as far as the rocks of the 
Bincon. This drive to Carpinteria at low tide, returning by the road 
through Montecito, is a favorite device for killing time on a summer 
— or winter — day. We give the following account of surf-bathing, 
written by one of the somewhat-too-enthusiastic gentlemen alluded 
to, only premising that there is much of actual truth in the rose- 
colored vision : 

"Santa Barbara at the present time stands preeminent for sea- 
bathing facilities over any other sea coast town of California. The 
water is of so mild a nature that an ordinarily healthy person can 
enjoy a bath in the sea every month in the year. Sheltered as the 
harbor is on all sides, it is a rare exception for the sea to be rough or 
the breakers at all high. Twenty-nine days out of the thirty the sea 
is as smooth as a mill-pond, and the most timid bather need have no 
fear of battling with the surf. There is no undertow. The slope of 
the beach is so gradual that the bather can wade out for several yards 
without getting above the waist in the water. The beach itself is as 
smooth as a billiard table, and is composed of sand of the finest 
quality. The highest temperature of the water in the harbor has 
been 66 degrees in the middle of summer, and in the winter the tem- 
perature has never fallen below 59 degrees, and has only reached that 
on rare occasions. The average temperature is estimated at 62 degrees. 
Santa Barbara is essentially the only place on the coast where winter 
bathing can be indulged in with comfort. Visitors who have tested 
the fact are unanimous in their expressions of delight and wonder at 
the remarkably pleasant and even temperature of the water at a time 
of year in which they have been accustomed to dread the application 
of cold water to their skins." 

Bath-houses and accommodations in the matter of bathing-suits, 
towels, etc., have been for the past few years managed by Mr. and 
Mrs. Fred. Forbush. Their establishment is always open during 
the season, and in the winter upon stated days or by appointment. 

BUETON MOUND. 

Many of the residents of Santa Barbara know this interesting 
spot only as the late residence of Don Luis Burton, as a beautiful 
shady spot for picnics, and as the destined site of a grand sea-side 
hotel. Travelers upon the decks of passing steamers admire the 
beauty of the place, which stands, a romantic landmark of the past, 
only a few hundred feet from the landing-place. It is a mound, cir- 
cular in form, standing prominently above the level of the surround- 
ing plain, about 400 feet from the surf which breaks upon the smooth 
and sandy beach at its foot. The top of the mound is about thirty 
feet above high water and the mound itself comprises about two acres, 



SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 53 

although the property of which it is a part contains thirty acres. 
From the level summit may be seen the shore line for thirty miles or 
more to the east; to the south, the channel and its towering islands 
present a fascinating prospect; to the west, the light-house, perched 
upon the bluff, and nearer, the "Castle Bock" of the Punta del Cas- 
tillo, around which the restless waves invoke a ceaseless melody. 
Landward, the city, the foothills, in gold or in green, and the Mission 
towers combine to form an almost unparalleled picture, and one 
generally neglected by visitors. 

Some years ago this mound with its adjacent surrounding jn'operty 
was purchased by a number of the prominent citizens of Santa Bar- 
bara, organized and incorporated as the Seaside Hotel Association. 
It is held by this association for the purpose of using it as a grand 
sanitarium and sea-side hotel site. It is the best place for a sea-side 
hotel in the United States. It has a water front upon a smooth sea-, 
beach; magnificent view in all directions, an abundance of shade 
trees, old and beautiful, rich soil and a luxuriant growth of green 
grass transplanted years ago, and propagated from the Sandwich 
Islands. This grass is remarkable for its softness and its luxuriance. 

The mound appears to have been a system of subterranean water 
courses. Springs flow in all directions, and the most remarkable 
feature about it is their variety. At one place there is a clear blue 
spring of sulphur water bubbling up and discharging into the grass 
beneath the olive groves. At another place an "Iron Spring," the wa- 
ter of which is strongly impregnated and the surroundings covered 
with iron rust. Near the summit a spring of pure water which is used 
to irrigate an immense vegetable garden, from which Santa Barbara 
draws its principal supply of vegetables. The property is intersected 
or traversed by a stream of water from the source of which the city 
derives its water supply above the Mission. The water of the sulphur 
spring is similar to that of the Montecito Hot Springs, except in 
its temperature. But arrangements are made for warming the water, 
and baths can now be obtained by invalids. The mound is a favorite 
place for celebrations. On the "Glorious Fourth" and other occa- 
sions, the good people of the city, with their wives and families, 
throng to this cool retreat, with baskets and orators and all the other 
impedimenta of the day, making the corridors of the old mansion 
ring with modern life, which must astonish the historic and pre- 
historic gentlemen underneath. The following extracts from an article 
in the Daily Independent of Oct. 19th, 1883, give a vivid description 
of the traditions of the mound: "For many years the coast of Cali- 
fornia and Oregon has been explored for ethnological relics. It has 
been dug up by different experts seeking to obtain the various imple- 
ments of household goods and gods buried with the dead, who knew 
the patient labor of the Indian during life passed with him to the 



51 



SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 



grave. In other words, the result of his work did not, as with us, go 
to the living — that it was superstition, no one in these days doubts* 
And hence we find in the grave the cooking utensils, the arrows, fish 
hooks, the crude pan for baking purposes, the tasteful olla for boiling, 
the flint mortar for grinding corn and beans or seed, and various 
other implements, the present generation cannot understand for what 
purpose they were made. Even the everlasting pipe is found buried 
with the smoker. But speaking of the Burton Mound, its origin is 
unknown to men now living, but it is known to have been formed of 
the bones, the trinkets, the cooking utensils and weapons of thousands 
of natives of this coast. It is in fact one grand catacomb or deposit of 
human bodies covered with immense quantities of sea shells. The 
interior of the mound has never been explored. No defiling spade or 
shovel has been permitted to unearth the immense quantities of 
Indian remains and relics therein deposited. Sometimes when a tree 
has died and it has been deemed desirable to remove the stump or 
roots, in digging it out, the earth was found full of Indian relics such 
as stone utensils, skulls and ingeniously made articles of orD anient. 
Many efforts have been made to obtain permission to explore the in- 
terior of this mound, but thanks to the vigilance and care of Captain 
William E. Green well, a manager of the "Sea Side Hotel Associa- 
tion," the valuable ethnological treasures of the mound remain 
intact. They are perhaps the most complete and valuable collection 
of aboriginal relics in the United States and will some day be re- 
garded with more interest than at present. 

There is a tradition extant which says that this mound was the 
regal residence of the Grand Sachem or Inca of all the tribes of this 
Southern coast. Around its base the Supreme Chief of all the South- 
ern tribes held regal court. Upon it the priests and medicine men 
of the tribes held their mystic conclaves, and no doubt enacted savage 
tragedies in centuries gone by. 

Vancouver, the English explorer, in his three volumes published 
in 1798, speaks of this mound as the abode of the Great Chief, which 
undoubtedly it was; in the year 1883, or 95 years since his visit, it is 
yet unexplored, and is covered with luxuriant vegetation and em- 
bowered with vines and fruit trees. 

Macgregor in his three volumes, "Progress in America," pub- 
lished in 1847, speaks of this mound. It is certainly an interesting 
spot and well worth the consideration of the directors of the various 
universities throughout the world who might seek to obtain the buried 
relics of a past race." 

HOT SPEINGS OF MONTECITO. 

The Montecito Hot Springs have for years past been noted for 
their healing powers. Passing the "grapevine property" and the 



SANTA BAKBAKA COUNTY. 55 

beautiful places of Col. Hayne and Mr. Bond, the road leads up the 
mountain, about three-quarters of a mile of steep ascent, until the 
spot is reached where twenty hot springs flow from crevices in the 
solid ledges of rock which form the head of the canon. And an un- 
canny canon it is too! But the sick drink of the waters and are 
healed. Many dip into the steaming pool for the pure pleasure of 
the bath. These remedial waters are about 1,450 feet above the sea, 
and about six miles from Santa Barbara. The various springs have a 
temperature of from 60 to 122 degrees Fahr. The analysis made by 
Dr. Oscar Loew shows the following constituents of the two principal 
springs: No. 1 — Sodium carbonate 29.6, sodium chloride 8.7, sodium 
sulphate 5, silicic acid 4.2, with traces of calcium potassium, sulphur- 
etted hydrogen and free carbonic acid. The other is similar, save 
that it has but a trace of sodium sulphate, less of the carbonate and 
chloride and a larger proportion of silicic acid. 

The discovery of the springs by Mr. Wilbur Curtiss, who lived 
there for many years, was made in 1855. His health had broken 
down in the mines and he was wandering through the country in 
search of health and upon some other unknown enterprise, when he 
came across a party of Indians at the mouth of this canon. One 
among them was supposed to be over a hundred years old; and he 
led Mr. Curtiss to these springs, and by signs intimated that he would 
grow well and strong by bathing in the waters. Through an inter- 
preter, the old Indian then told Mr. Curtiss that since he had been a 
little boy he had drank and bathed there, and that the springs were 
"the best in the world." Mr. Curtiss remained, drank and bathed in 
this pool of Siloam and was healed. He then took up a claim there, 
seeing that the spot might prove a valuable property in the future. 
At first, there was but a difficult trail to lead to the springs, and over 
this, for years he carried his provisions and building materials. This 
was widened and improved, until there is a fair road, over which a 
stage carries invalids and tourists and the thousand and one items 
to make them comfortable. Mr. Curtiss first camped with his 
blankets, then a tent arose, then the first rude hut, then the little 
cottage, and so building after building was added, until now it seems 
like a little mountain village, but alas! the poor old gentleman is no 
longer of the earth to see the gradual fulfillment of his cherished 
plans. 

It is learned upon good authority, that when the country still 
owed allegiance to the Crown of Spain, the Spanish government sent 
out a commission of scientific observers, with orders to make an ex- 
amination and analysis of all the then known mineral waters in 
Mexico and the Californias. This commission after spending much 
time in the prosecution of their inquiries, reported the most favor- 
ably upon the properties of the Montecito springs. For rheumatism 



56 



SAXTA BARBARA COUNTY. 



and scrofulous diseases they are said to prove in many cases a specific; 
but no invalid should venture to drink or bathe in the waters without 
medical advice, since the springs are not effective in all diseases. 

Yistors to the Springs are always shown the view from "Lookout 
Point" which is reached by a winding trail on the mountain side. One 
of the finest views is there obtained, of the valley of Santa Barbara, 
with its city and suburbs, and the ocean and islands beyond. 

These springs of Montecito are the best known and most accessi- 
ble, but not by any means the only mineral springs in Santa Barbara 
county. Over the San Marcos Pass other springs have been found 
and utilized, and there are springs also in many parts of the Santa 
Ynez range, both cold and hot, generally strongly impregnated with 
sulphur. The following description of San Marcos or Mountain 
Glen springs was written by Professor G. R. Crotch: "These springs 
are conspicuous among the natural beauties of Santa Barbara. The 
drive over the mountain is in itself replete with beauty: after you 
cross the summit of the Santa. Ynez where all is luxuriant and green, 
streams crossing the road freely, level plateaus of abundant grass, un- 
dulating groves of oak, the chaparral thick with flowers, all form a 
picture of rare beauty. The 'springs are situated in Mountain Glen, 
one of the many canons crossed by the stage road, and debouching 
into the Santa Ynez river about; six miles from "Pat's," (on the sum- 
mit) at the San Marcos house, an old ruined adobe building. From 
here a tolerable road has been cut through the brush for about a mile, 
the latter part passing through a dense forest growth. At last a little 
log cabin is reached, and this marks the site of the principal 
springs. The scene is picturesque in the extreme, a densely wooded 
canon, with sides nearly vertical, about 250 feet high and clothed 
with brushwood; the bed of the stream thickly covered with various 
forest trees. Two sycamores opposite the cabin are at least 70 feet 
high and as straight as palm trees. The stream itself, steaming some- 
what in the cool air, combines to render the effect unique. The bed 
of this stream is of cold and beautifully clear water; in this at inter- 
vals, arise five or six different hot springs, none too warm for the 
hands and all slightly impregnated with sulphur. Other cold springs 
more strongly impregnated, arise also at the edge of the main bed. 
The warmer springs have coated the stones with a characteristic 
green coating as the singular springs in the Azores do." 

These springs have been found beneficial in many instances, and 
there are other attractions also in the vicinity. The valley below 
abounds in quail, the streams are stocked with trout, and ii the so- 
journer be a naturalist a wide and productive field is here open to 
him, as insects of many interesting varieties have been found in this 
neighborhood by visitors fond of the "science of bugs and things." 
The springs are now owned by T. H. Hough, who has made some im- 



SANTA BAKBAJKA COUNTY. 57 

provements, and provides very comfortable beds for guests, of whom 
lie has many during the summer months. The stage passes the 
mouth of the canon every day, and visitors are there met by Mr. 
Hough if proper notice is given, or if the guests are not of the invalid 
variety, they can very easily make their way to Mountain Glen on 
foot. 



THE LIGHTHOUSE. 

A short drive, fit for an invalid on a pleasant day, is the way to 
the lighthouse upon the mesa. The idea of a lighthouse ordinarily 
suggests a storm-beaten coast, a leaden sky, with the howling winds 
and furious rain creating a wild uproar, in unison with the savage 
breakers dashing on the rocky base of a tall and lonely tower. But 
this is a peaceful and home-like spot. The sky is blue, the blue 
channel smiles in the sun, unruffled for months at a time. Some- 
times a soft haze half obscures the islands; or a fog bank rises from 
the ocean like a distant range of mountains. 

The lighthouse stands upon a fertile mesa, only a half hour's ride 
from the city. The keeper, who has trimmed the lamp for twenty- 
eight years, came with her husband when the lighthouse was built. 
She subsequently assumed the sole charge, and for nineteen years 
has but once left the beacon light. Mrs. Williams is, in fact, ttie 
veteran lighthouse keeper of the coast, and is always ready and will- 
ing to exhibit her charge to visitors. The lighthouse is a homelike 
edifice in its design giving no evidence of the extreme solidity of its 
walls. The house is built upon most solid foundations, its walls be- 
ing of stone two feet in thickness. From these rises a tower of bricks 
inside of which a winding staircase leads to a small apartment near 
the top. From this a short iron ladder leads through a small man 
hole in the floor of the lantern room above, which aperture is so 
small as to require considerable effort on the part of a portly person 
to squeeze through. On the first landing a notice, to visitors, pro- 
vided by the Government, cautions them against scratching or de- 
facing the lantern or the property in any way. The lamp is a Hains, 
32 candle power, visible twenty miles on a clear night, and is a fixed 
white light. The glass consists of a focal plane with eight prisms; 
five above and three below. As Mrs. Williams carefully removes the 
cloth from around the object upon which she has lavished such assid- 
uous care for many years the brilliancy of its shining sides are almost 
blinding. The reflector shines like a huge diamond, not a scratch 
upon its surface nor a speck of dust, testifying in its splendid con- 
dition the care it has received. The lamp placed back of this glass 
is an argand burner of anything but imposing appearance. Every- 
thing about the tower is a model of good house-keeping or lighthouse- 
keeping. In the family rooms below are gathered trophies of sea and 



58 



SANTA BAEBAKA COUNTY. 



shore. Shells, starfish, sea-urchins and the like washed up from the 
.sea at the base of the cliff upon which stands the lighthouse itself. 
The view from the railed platform about the top of the beacon is su- 
perb. The Goleta landing is visible to the right, the islands in front 
and the wharf of Santa Barbara is hid from sight by the graceful 
lines of Castle Point. 



LAKE FENTON. 

About four miles from the city, on the Kancho Positas y la Calera, 
is a lovely little lake in the centre of a rim of hills, which are covered 
in early spring with a green sward and dotted with stately oaks. It 
is a pleasant destination for a short drive, and the name was formally 
bestowed upon the little lake during the visit of Governor Fenton of 
New York. The party of sponsors included several prominent men 
from the East, two or three army officers and a few citizens of Santa 
Barbara. Mr. Charles Nordhoff alludes to the spot in his work on 
California, and mentions a picnic there on the 22d of February. The 
lake was formerly known as Laguna Blanco. 



AN INDIAN VILLAGE. 

'There are many places of historic interest in this valley; only a 
few of which can be referred to — some of them date so far back that 
they are hidden in the mists of antiquity. 

At Goleta, six miles west of Santa Barbara, is a place of great in- 
terest to antiquarians. It is the former site of one or more Indian 
villages, whose origin is prehistoric. From this locality, named by 
them the "Big Bonanza" a corps of Government scientists exhumed 
about ten tons of relics that were shipped to the Smithsonian Insti- 
tute at "Washington, and finally distributed among the leading scien- 
tific museums of the world. When the first white man visited this 
coast, 342 year's ago, there was a dense population in this valley and 
numerous villages, which were ruled over by an Indian Princess who 
lived in this village, then called Ciacut. The dwellings have all disap- 
peared, only the kitchen debris remains to mark the homes of this once 
populous race. The dancing circle is plainly defined, for so firmly 
had the soil been beaten down by countless generations of dancers, 
that vegetation still refuses to grow in the sacred inclosure. Cabrillo 
says: "They had large public squares in their villages, and an in- 
closure like a circle, and around this they have many blocks of stone 
set in the ground, which issue about three palms, and in the middle 
of the inclosure they have sticks of timber driven into the ground, 
like masts and very thick, and they have many pictures on the same 
posts, and we believe that they worship them, for when they dance 
they caper around the inclosure." Their dancing was accompanied 



SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 59 

by chanting, slapping of hands, blowing on whistles, beating of 
drums and rattling of shells filled with pebbles. They danced to pro- 
pitiate the divinity, they danced when successful in fishing or hunt- 
ing, they danced at a marriage and at a funeral. The historian says 
such was the delight with which they took part in their festivities that 
they often continued dancing day and night, and sometimes entire 
weeks." 



MISSION CANON — SEVEN FALLS. 

The Mission creek, or rather the Arroyo Pedrogoso, has several 
times been mentioned as the souce of the city's water supply, and also 
for the scenic effects along its sparkling path. The day on which no 
picnickers are camped under the oaks and sycamores, somewhere be- 
tween the Mission buildings and the Seven Falls, would be a frigid 
day indeed, and one not likely to be met with in the summer time. 
Families often take their simple tents and household stuff and stay 
for days or even weeks. It is so near to the city that any person of 
average health can easily walk to a pretty picnic spot. But to the 
Seven Falls is a climb to which only the strongest and most enthusias- 
tic do not succumb; although the reward is great. There is nothing on 
earth so lovely as a mountain brook, and of all mountain brooks, this 
is one of the loveliest — the clearest, the purest, the most bewitching. 
From the hollow just behind the Mission to the furthest springs, is a 
succession of beautiful, wild, natural scenery. If it has a fault, it is 
the superabundance of campers (all with distressing appetites) in the 
season. 



MOUNTAIN TEAILS. 

Northward from the city, an old trail crosses the Santa Ynez 
range, into the upper Santa Ynez valley, descending into the aban- 
doned quicksilver camp of Los Prietos. A description by the Rev. 
S. R. Weldon, of a trip over the range is here given, which will per- 
haps tempt a tourist or two to go and do likewise. He says: "We 
struck the mountain's foot at the mouth of the Cold Spring canon. 
For a mile or so it was easy work, till we approached the Cascades, 
where the brook tumbles down a lofty precipice, perhaps 300 feet 
high, which blocks the way up the gorge. So following the narrow 
trail to the left, up we climb, stopping every few rods to rest our 
panting steeds. At first we almost shrink from looking down into 
the abyss below us, but we soon get accustomed to it. The sense of 
security grows upon us, and soon we can carelessly gaze down the 
steep declivity — a single mis-step and we could not stop for a thousand 
feet. But our sure-footed animals make no mis-steps. They do not 
stumble; we feel safe and are safe. Yet it would be a bold man who 



60 SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 

would dare to ride one of our large "American" horses on these 
mountain trails; but mustangs and mules are very sure-footed and 
even ladies learn to ride them on these trails without fear. In two 
and one-half hours we have reached the crest of the long ridge that 
for so many miles separates the Santa Ynez from the Santa Barbara 
valley. I marvel to find it so sharp and narrow, scarcely a level yaid 
of ground anywhere. The prospect is most striking. One hundred 
and twenty miles of coast line beneath, the beautiful valley with the 
pretty town — you can almost name the familiar streets and pick out 
the houses. Then the ocean and the islands! How quietly, how 
grandly beautiful! But turn around; could anything more wild and 
desolate be imagined. See, range after range of bare, bleak, verdure- 
less mountains. . Thirty miles of waste ! You have heard that deer, 
bears and mountain lions roam amid these starving sierras, and won- 
der what they find to eat. But there are hidden canons and unseen 
valleys^ where are forests and grass; sufficiently wild and barren, but 
not quite so desolate as it seems. 

But now we descend the steep declivity to the north. There are 
quicksilver mines and hints of more valuable metals; but nobody has 
yet grown rich from the minerals stored among these rough treasure- 
houses. Perhaps in some future time they may. In a couple of 
hours we reach the dwelling of the laborers who work at the quick- 
silver mine; a free-hearted hospitality offers food and lodging. But 
we came to camp out, and camp we will. So, after a lunch and rest, 
we wend our way up the valley to a spot where grass, water and 
shade may be found, and having staked out our horses, build our fire. 

Having eaten our supper and gathered the tall fragrant herbs for 
our couches, we roll up in our blankets to sleep under the stars. How 
sweet and how exhilarating is the air of the night in these dry soli- 
tudes! * * * Next morning, about half a mile from our camp, a 
bear appears on the opposite side of a gorge, within easy rifle shot; 
but the brute seems to know that we do not carry Winchester rifles 
and so leisurely walks along and in ten minutes disappears in the 
thick trees at the bottom of the canon. These are very shy animals, 
seldom seen, even where they are numerous, so we counted ourselves 
fortunate to have made his bearship's acquaintance. * * * Keturning, 
at 7 o'clock we reached the summit, and there we saw what has often 
been described, and its wondrous beauty, so difficult to imagine until 
seen — the clouds at our feet, resting against the mountain side and 
stretching far away to the distant horizon, the mountainous islands 
alone pushing up their peaks above the vast billowy expanse, its 
beautiful folds, white as the driven snow. * * * Then down the 
steep mountain side and. when in a couple of hours we reached home, 
the sun was shining there too." 



SANTA BAKBAKA COUNTY. 61 

UPPEB SANTA YNEZ. 

The preceding description of a mountain trail, it will be seen, 
lands the traveler amid the unique scenery of the upper Santa Ynez, 
where in comparatively modern ages, Titanic forces burst through the 
mountain barriers, letting pass the silver river and showing upon the 
scarred precipices veins of cinnabar, where the strata were torn vio- 
lently asunder. Since there are no longer miners to offer "food and 
lodging" the trip can only be made by one who is able and willing to 
"rough it." But the hunter will find it a veritable Paradise on earth; 
for deer are plentiful in the caiions and among the wooded ridges, 
and in the cool shadows of the rocks lurk the wary mountain trout — 
luxury of luxuries. Here too, the man who has lost a grizzly can find 
him. 

As for scenery, there are places which rival the Yosemite in 
grandeur; the former mining camp of Los Prietos is overshadowed 
by a precipice fifteen hundred feet high ; a steep and solid rock, up whose 
face not even a goat could climb. The effect of this great impene- 
trable wall by moonlight is weird and solemn; its awful shadow 
looms above like a perpetual reproach against the littleness of man 
and the insignificance of all his works. Between the two deserted 
camps of Los Prietos and Santa Ynez, the river runs through a nar- 
row valley, between mountains red with cinnabar, sometimes iinder 
overhanging limestone walls and opening out again into little oak- 
covered ilats. One enormous rock, which scarcely allows the stream 
to pass, was aptly named by the miners Gibraltar, and near its base 
the still unexplored cave of Najalayegua opens its mouth. In places 
great red boulders of cinnabar lie piled upon each other with prodi- 
gal recklessness. Near where formerly the upper mine was worked, 
high up on the mountain side, is a little castle built of cinnabar, held 
as a fort during one of the many fights between rival claimants to the 
mines. There are other points, besides the abandoned mines, worth 
visiting by those who can dispense with the "blessings of what is 
called civilization" and have breath left for climbing. And in the 
purple distance the San Ptafael range seems to stretch away into in- 
finity, with the mineral secrets of its wild unknown recesses — and all 
impress the beholder with the glory of this gracious and terrible 
saint in her splendid solitude. 



THE SAN MARCOS PASS. 

The toll road over the San Marcos Pass, which is the identical 
spot where Fremont descended upon the town in 1846, offers attractions 
to tourists, but this is also of the "roughing it" variety. The view from 
the summit is superb and there are many spots suitable for camping. 
The air upon the mountain is, in some states of physical disease, 
quite beneficial; as when fogs cover the valley, it is clear and bright 



SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 



upon the summit. But to mention one mountain retreat is to mention 
all, and so we will but cursorily speak of other noted spots which are 
famous among campers. 



GAVIOTA PASS. 

Taking the avenue which leads past the Hollister and Cooper 
ranchos, past the lovely Tecolote and other coast canons which have 
been mentioned previously, twenty-five miles away, we reach El Cap- 
itan, the usual tarrying place of campers en route for the upper 
country. The valley here is narrow. The wooded canon, with its 
gurgling brook, pushes itself out into the sea. Long lines of trees 
across the open country meet and mingle with the line of the ocean; a 
low promontory stands out to the south, making a little cove where a 
skiff might be beached unhindered by the breakers beyond. By the 
brook, with its mimic falls and pools, we know El Capitan. From 
thence, we follow for fifteen miles the line of the coast, where num- 
berless canons open to the sea, until we reach the Gaviota landing; 
thence turning away from the coast, where a mountain stream has 
broken through, we make the Gaviota Pass — a natural chasm about 
sixty feet wide through the range, and within a mile of the sea. It is 
a delightful trip in summer, but when the summit of the Pass is 
reached, the cold wind blowing from the ocean meets the dusty trav- 
eler, showing the great difference in atmosphere between the two 
sides of the Santa Ynez, Spoiled by the soft delicious airs of Santa 
Barbara, the valley into which we descend seems chilly and unwel- 
come. Yet, compared with other places, nature deals kindly enough 
with the dwellers in Lompoc and the coast regions above Point Con- 
eepcion. 



CASITAS PASS. 

Eastward from Santa Barbara, there are a thousand spots to tempt 
the tourist — passing through the valleys of Montecito and Carpinte- 
ria, with their unique and charming canons leading into the inmost 
recesses of the mountains, we reach the Oasitas Pass, and beyond it 
the splendid scenery of Ventura county and the gem of Ventura, its 
far-famed Ojai Valley. 



THE OJAI. 

It is said that every pretty cottage in this valley is tenanted by 
some one who has fled hither to escape the horrors of the asthma, and 
has found relief. There are two excellent hotels in the valley, where 
invalids are well taken care of by Mr. F. P. Barrows and McKee c\r 
Gally. It is scarcely within our province to speak of this valley, of 
its magnificent scenery or the fishing and hunting there enjoyed. But 
the majority of tourists sooner or later make it a visit. It is also 
noted as the spot which immortalized itself by naming the little ham- 
let in its midst "Nordhoff," in honor of the celebrated journalist. 



FLOWERS, FERNS, SEA-MOSSES, ETC. 



Written Especially for this Work By 
Resident Scientists. 



THE FLORA OF SANTA BARBAE A. 
[By Mrs. R. F. Bingham.] 
In passing down the beach, you will be delighted to see the 
beautiful trailing abronia unibellata, intermingled with the delicate 
yellow Oenothera, often with a background of the shrubby lupine. 
Follow the road around the cliff, and you will always see the Califor- 
nia rose in bloom, together with the white convolvulus, and many 
other flowers, varying with the time of year. Some of these are not 
found elsewhere, others growing at the base of the hill in the sand, 
are also found at a thousand feet elevation, and at intermediate points. 
On the top of the hill, covering large spaces, are the purple brodseas 
and the orange California poppy, side by side. Further down, be- 
neath the oaks, are mossy spots in which grow the maiden hair ferns, 
while in more rocky localities the pelkea and polypodium are found. 
In spring, if you look very closely, you will find a small plant with 
delicate creamy blossoms, a representative of the poppy family, which 
will w r ell repay your search. Later in the season as you approach the 
main road, you will find the hillside purple with the beautiful Collin- 
sia bicolor, and again the more familiar buttercup will greet you. 

Almost anywhere along the stream banks you will find the bright 
blue lupine, the white cardamine, the finely divided leaved thalictrum> 
and under the trees, the delicate blue nemophila will peep through 
the grass, reminding you of the wood violet, which grows here only 
upon the mountains. Many ferns can be found in these localities, as 
also many bright, showy flowers. 

Often times in open spaces, are large masses, white with the bloom 
of the eretrichium, which in shape and size resembles the blue forget- 
me-not. The blue-eyed grass smiles at you everywhere. Purple 



6± 



SANTA B ABB ABA COUNTY. 



peas, yellow liosackias of many sizes, purple and white godetias, pha- 
eelias of various hues meet your eyes at almost every turn. 

Perhaps in threading your way among the bushes, you suddenly 
notice a perfume that reminds you of something you remember of 
your childhood, but you can scarcely make out what it is; looking 
carefully about, you find you are treading upon the fragrant 
yerba-buena trailing along the ground, hiding its delicate blossoms 
under its small leaves, reminding you of the trailing arbutus, but in 
no way resembling it. As you ascend, you find the rose-colored and 
scarlet gooseberries, which, but for the armament of triple thorns*, 
would be well worth a place upon the lawn. 

Then there are many species of California lilac, the mountain 
mahogany, the California laurel and holly. These shrubs are often 
.evergreen, with vines that produce a. profusion of white sprays, fol- 
lowed by their curious prickly fruits, and occasionally a clematis 
will hang out its snowy blooms, or plumy seeds. On the cliffs along 
the mountain streams, grow the delicate and rare ferns, mingled with 
brilliant flowers, and on the level side, the towering fronds of the 
Woodwardia. 

In summer the mountain slopes are- covered with the snowy 
spikes of the yucca, rising many feet above the bayonet-like leaves, 
and you are often surprised by masses of the bright golden helianthe- 
mum. In autumn will be found representatives of the sage family, in 
white, blue and purple, while underneath them are the scarlet-painted 
cup, and the low-growing crimson chorizanthe. 

The varieties of calachortus and other bulbous plants are exceed- 
ingly beautiful. Scarlet mimulus in dry stream beds attracts attention, 
while the salmon-colored one can be found m rocKy places all the 
year. Yellow flowers in the greatest profusion everywhere, and 
always, until one almost tires in thinking of the great variety. 

As you ascend the mountain heights, new faces greet you, inter- 
mingled with those you have met lower down. 

There is one modest flower you must not fail to find; look under 
the shrubbery in low places, and you will be repaid for your 
search by the small, sweet-scented, blue scatellaria, which you will 
never tire of collecting. 

One might fill page after page and scarcely begin to tell the 
beauties of our flora; words are powerless for desertion; it must be 
seen and loved to be appreciated. 



SEA MOSSES. 
[By the late Dr. L. 1ST. Dimmick.] 
The sojourners by the seaside at Santa Barbara, who are fond of 
the beautiful and strange in nature, will find a rich treat in the ex- 
quisitely beautiful sea mosses that are cast upon the shore by the 



SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 65 

in-coming waves of the blue Pacific. At their feet they will see these 
"flowers of the sea," brilliant in their rich and various shades of 
crimson, gresn, purple, olive and brown. Some of these when grow- 
ing under water reflect prismatic colors, and as they sway to and fro 
with the motion of the waves, they glisten with the richest metal ic 
greens and blue with pink and scarlet, each leaf a rainbow in itself. 
These sea mosses are eagerly sought for, collected in large quantities, 
and distributed throughout the United States. They are gathered at 
all seasons ol the year, as there are no icy shores to prevent. The 
spring and summer are the best times in the year to collect, as a 
greater number of varieties can then be found, and they are of more 
luxuriant growth. 

They are floated out on cards or paper, pressed until dry and 
then arranged in books or albums. When they are wanted for ma- 
king sea moss pictures and landscapes, or for constructing wreaths, or 
filling baskets, they are first dried on bright tin plates or oiled paper, 
from which, when dry, they can be readily removed in a fit condition 
for this highly ornamental work. 

The Atlantic coast possesses many lovely varieties, but the Pacific 
far exceeds it in the number of its species and varieties. The red- 
colored sea mosses are the most abundant in deep water, and are 
most likely to be found after a rough sea has loosened them from 
their attachments. There is a marked difference in form as well as in 
colors between specimens of the same species when growing at differ- 
ent depths. The sea mosses, or Algre, are the food of a large number 
of marine animals. Man too, has found some of them very desira- 
ble as articles of diet. The Irish moss of the Atlantic finds here its 
superior in the Gigartina family, which is free from bitterness and 
makes a superior jelly. It is possible that the salubrity of sea air is 
due in part to the Iodine set free from the kelp or dark green sea 
weeds that dry up on the shore. 



MOLLUSC A. 
[By Dr. Lorenzo G. Yates. ] 

California includes within its limits a greater variety of natural 
regions and peculiar zoological districts than any other State or Ter- 
ritory of the Union. Its seaboard of over 600 miles in length, furnishes 
a great range of climate, and a consequent varied fauna and flora. 
Santa Barbara, from its peculiarly sheltered position, caused in a 
measure by the conformation of the coast, marks the boundary line 
of the northern and southern limits of many of the marine species of 
mollusca. 

The Pacific Ocean along our shore keeps up an uniformity of 
temperature suitable to the requirements of many subtropical forms. 



66 



SAXTA BARBARA COUNTY. 



Many of our genera are peculiar, the sub-genera of land shells, in 
particular, and differ from those of the central and eastern portions 
of the continent, while many of the eastern genera are unknown with 
us. At the same time the localities where these peculiar genera or 
species are found are sometimes very limited; for example, Binneia 
notabilis, found ODly on the Santa Barbara Island, and these confined 
to the south-east side; still another species, Patida Durantii, found in 
the same locality as the above, and nowhere else except in Alameda 
county, (300 miles north) where it has been found in limited num- 
bers by the writer and others. 

Helix Ayresiana, a very pretty snail shell, found on the Channel 
Islands only, and which will in all probability soon be exterminated, 
pasturing of sheep on the islands destroying the herbage on which 
they feed and under which they are protected. 

Within the city limits shells are rarely found of any beauty or 
scientific value, but above and below it are points where the localities 
are favorable for the collection of rare and fine species. 

Although Santa Barbara has perhaps fewer species than some 
other points on the coast, still the coast of the county contains a 
large number of the species found north and south, and some not 
found elsewhere. It is the northern limit of Luponia spadicea, (a 
very pretty cowry or money shell) also Siphonalia kelletii, a rare and 
fine species. Live shells of the above named species are oc- 
casionally obtained by dredging in the channel; they live upon the 
kelp and in deep water. Broken and dead shells are not uncommon 
on the shore, and doubtless many species not now known in this lo- 
cality may be found by dredging in the channel. 

The islands afford not only a sheltered coast, but also an extra- 
ordinary length of coast line, the rocky portion of which furnished 
the native Indians an abundant supply of food molluscs, while the 
shells furnished them with ornaments, articles of utility and material 
for exchange or barter with the interior tribes, while at the present 
time the Abalone or Haliotis furnishes valuable articles of commerce; 
the Chinese dry and ship to China immense quantities of the animal; 
the shells are polished and sold as curios, and large quantities of the 
rough shells are exj>orted for the manufacture of jewelry, buttons and 
various other articles. The delicate and beautiful Paper Nautilus 
(Argonauta Argo) is sometimes found on the islands after a storm; it 
is highly prized by collectors, and lovers of the rare and beautiful in 
nature. 

Another curious and pretty shell, Lucapina crenulata, was used 
by the Indians as ornaments. The Bubble Shell, (Haminea vesicula) 
very delicate, and transparent, is sometimes found in the Estero. 



SANTA B ABB ABA COUNTY. 67 

Extensive and interesting collections of shells have been made 
here from time to time by scientific explorers. 

In 1866 Mr. Hepburn collected 70 species in Santa Barbara and 
vicinity. In 1867, Dr. Newcomb,, an eminent conchologist, now of Cor- 
nell University, collected 135 species on the coast of the main land, and 
23 species on Santa Cruz island, some of them quite rare. The writer 
collected 160 species on Santa Rosa island, a complete list of which was 
published Nov., 1876, in the Quarterly Journal of Conchology, at 
Leeds, England. This collection was made incidentally while en- 
gaged in searching for antiquities in the interest of the Smithsonian 
Institution. Doubtless the list could be considerably extended. 

The seaward side of the islands being exposed to the full force of 
the wind and tide, and the land side moderately calm and sheltered, 
furnish widely different conditions for the various species of deep- 
water and littoral molluscs and offer extensive opportunities for fur- 
ther research and discoveries. 



FEBNS. 

[By Lorenzo G. Yates.J 

The remarks on the peculiarities of the climate of this county as 
regard the molluscan fauna, will apply also to the flora of this region 
so far as the Felices or Ferns are concerned. While some of our 
species are found in the northern part of the State, and are not found 
south of us, others begin here and extend south. Santa Barbara be- 
ing the southern limit of species found in northern California and 
Oregon, and the northern boundary of others found south, into Ari- 
zona and Mexico; others again are peculiar to this and the counties 
immediately adjacent, and one species at least, is peculiar to Santa 
Barbara county on the Pacific Coast, and found elsewhere only in 
Florida and Texas. We find the following species in this county: 
The Adiantums or "Maiden-hair Ferns," are remarkably well repre- 
sented, all the species known in the United States, with perhaps one 
exception, being found here. 

Adiantum pedatum, in the northern portion of the county. A. 
capillus veneris, A. emarginatum, in the wooded canons in the 
neighborhood of living water; hanging in immense masses from the 
boulders under the spray of falling water. 

Aspidium patens, a remarkably fine and pretty fern; the only lo- 
calities where it is found in the United States being Bartlett Canon in 
this county, and in Florida and Western Texas. 

Aspidium rigidum, variety argutum, found throughout the coun- 
try in abundance. 

Cheilanthes Californica. commonly called lace fern, a very deli- 



68 SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 

cate and pretty species found only in the Coast Range of California, 
and much sought after by collectors. 

Cheilanthes Coopers, first discovered in Santa Barbara county 
and named .for Mrs. Ell wood Cooper, a lady who takes great interest 
in the collection of ferns. 

Gymnogramme triangularis, the golden back or gold fern and 
under certain conditions of growth taking the form of the so-called 
silver fern, common everywhere. 

Pellsea andromedasfolia. P. ornithopus and brachyptera; all the 
pellseas improve under cultivation. 

Peteris aquilina, var. lanuginosus, brake fern, common. 

Woodwardia radicans, variety Americana, is found growing in 
and near mountain streams. Magnificent specimens of this fern are 
used to decorate our halls and public buildings on special occasions, 
notably our Floral Carnival. 



INDIAN REMAINS.. 
[By Dr. L. N". Dimmick.] 

Of the inhabitants of this county, previous to its discovery by 
Cabrillo in 1542, nothing is known except as developed by a minute 
examination of their rancherias and cemeteries. From these have 
been obtained many tons of their household utensils, tools, weapons, 
ornaments, and various other articles that throw light upon their 
domestic economy, occupations, character and history. When this 
coast was discovered by Cabrillo, no other portion was found so 
densely populated as this vicinity. The early records of the Mission 
give the names of over one hundred and fifty clans or rancherias that 
were located within the limits of the territory afterward formed into 
the county of Santa Barbara. The supply of food appears to have 
been so abundant that there was no struggle for existence, and the 
climate so even and delightful, that they showed their appreciation of 
these conditions by crowding it with a dense population, who for a 
long period enjoyed here a peaceful and indolent life. Excavations 
into the cemeteries show that many of the localities had been occu- 
pied continuously for probably ten centuries at least. 

With the skeletons, that from the measure of decay, appeared to 
have been buried from one hundred to three hundred years, were 
found a few modern beads and other articles of European manufac- 
ture, mingled with stone, wood, bone and shell implements. Still 
deeper, beneath these graves, were found remains more decayed, with 
only the stone, bone and shell utensils. Layers were found of deeper 
and deeper interments, in which the human remains crumbled into 
dust upon being exposed to the air. These skeletons exhibited an 
antiquity equally great with the remains of the mound builders of the 



SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 69 

Mississippi valley. The skulls resembled those of the more intelli- 
gent of the native races. The bones indicated a muscular race, of 
medium stature, somewhat taller than the inland tribes. The sites of 
their villages are covered with the remains of molluskg*, fish and 
seals, showing that from these animals they obtained the larger por- 
tion of their food. The rarity of warlike implements indicates that 
they were a peaceful race; their care for the dead proves that they 
were not destitute of natural affection ; and the fact that they buried 
with their departed friends all the implements and other articles of 
value belonging to them, testifies that they believed in a future state 
of existence, where these articles might be required. The bodies were 
usually buried with the face downward, and the knees drawn up 
under the body. 

With many of the skeletons of females were found balls of red 
ochre. Sometimes this was carefully preserved in abalone shells, or in 
small stone cups. Bracelets and necklaces of bone and shells, to- 
gether with strings of shell beads and shell ear-rings had been buried 
with them. The most common domestic utensil was the stone mortar 
and pestle, which were of all sizes, from those holding three or four 
gallons down to those holding less than a pint. In these they doubt- 
less pounded their acorns and other seeds, which they seasoned with 
grasshoppers when they were plenty enough. They had tortilla 
stones cut out of soapstone or steatite that were fire-proof, on which 
they baked their acorn cakes. They also carved from this same kind 
of stone neat cooking utensils. These were globular, with rather 
narrow apertures, often encircled by raised rims, and would hold from 
half a gallon up to four gallons. Cups, bowls and ladles were carved 
from serpentine and highly polished. Rude knives and awls were 
made of flint and bone. Abalone shells were used for drinking pur- 
poses and for plates. Needles were made of bone. 

Highly polished serpentine pipes, with hollow bone mouth- 
pieces, cemented in place with asphaltum, indicate that they liked to 
enjoy their ease when smoking, as the straight, elongated pipe was 
only adapted to be used with comfort when the smoker was in a re- 
cumbent position. They made fish-hooks of both bone and shell. 
Arrow and spear heads were of flint, as were also the scrapers with 
which they dressed and prepared the sealskins for their clothing. 

Bemains of nets and the abundance of sinkers found on the 
islands where the best fishing grounds exist, show that they were ex- 
perts in this mode of catching fish. These sinkers were generally 
discoidal stones, with the opening in the centre beveled. It is prob- 
able that they had secondary uses for these stone rings, and that they 
were used in playing games. One form of these discoidal stones is' 
club-head in shape, and is supposed to have been used on sticks of 
wood for convenience, in digging the ground for roots. Whistles 



70 



SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 



and flutes of hollow bones of birds show that they were not entirely 
destitute of musical taste. Their shell money was generally com- 
posed of small, round pieces of flat shell, perforated in the centre, or 
else small shells like the oiivellas, truncated at the apex so as to be 
strung together. Beautiful models of boats were carved in serpen- 
tine. As the northern tribes around the Sacramento river and the 
bay of San Francisco knew nothing about boats, having only balsas, 
(which were small rafts of tules or rushes) the possession of these 
fine models that they evidently prized highly, and the admirable boats 
they possessed in abundance when Cabrillo first visited them, and 
which he describes as constructed of bent planks, cemented with 
bitumen, the largest of them capable of safely transporting twenty 
persons at a trip across the channel intervening between the main 
land and the outlying islands, proves them to have been a much more 
intelligent race than any of the more northern tribes. 

But as soon as the eye of the white man rested upon them they 
commenced to melt away. A little more than three hundred years 
later, and the native race was almost extinct. This fair domain, once 
their exclusive possession, is now in the occupancy of another people 
who wander over the deserted homes that are all the record this van- 
ished race left of their history; "of their inner life, their aspirations, 
hopes and fears in the unrecorded past." 

[This article is a reprint, given in place of the one promised by 
the late Dr. Dimmick, who took great interest in this undertaidng; 
to whom in fact, the plan of the work is largely due. He had 
prepared the papers on "Sea-Mosses," the "Indian dancing ground 
at Goleta," the "Adaptability of the soil to lemons," and some para- 
graphs on minor subjects, when he was taken seriously ill; and when 
his death occurred, the first half of the work was already in press. In 
his death the city has sustained a severe loss. He was not more 
noted for his scientific attainments than for his generous heart and 
liberal public spirit. Even when confined to a sick room his influ- 
ence was widely felt in all matters pertaining to the welfare of the 
city; his advice was prized and his judgment relied upon; strangers 
were referred to him as to the best authority — and not to know Dr. 
Dimmick was not to know Santa Barbara.] 



GEOLOGY AND PALEONTOLOGY. 
[By Lorenzo G. Yates. J 
At various and widely separated points over the area of the State. 
California has several noted fossil localities; one of the most widely 
known being the strip of land occupied by the low-lying hills of Post- 
Pliocene age, lying between Santa Barbara and the ocean. These 
hills arise at the highest point to about 433 feet, and are composed of 



SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 71 

strata of nearly horizontal rocks which rest upon the upturned ledges 
of the underlying bituminous shale. These rocks consist of coarse 
gravel and sand, in some places very hard, at others soft and friable. 
These strata which have been referred to the Pliocene and Pleisto 
cene or Post-Pliocene periods by different authors, are again overlaid 
unconformably by alluvial deposits. At this place the first collection 
of fossil mollusca of which we have a record, was made in 1849, by 
the late Col. E. Jewett, who was well known to the people of Santa 
Barbara, where his daughter and her family still reside. A descrip- 
tion of these fossils was published in 1863 in "Beports of the British As- 
sociation;" many of the species being new to science, and several 
were named after Col. Jewett. Forty-six species were enumerated, 
about one-half of which are still found living in the waters adjacent; 
one of the most noted fossils Crepidula grandis, the "boat" or "slip- 
per shell," is at present a boreal species, found living on the shores 
of Kamtschatka; another species, Janira bella, illustrated in Yol. 2, of 
Paleontology of California, is well known to collectors, and prized by 
tourists and others, from its peculiar shape and excellent state of 
preservation. 

Extensive collections were also made by the geologists of the 
Pacific E. B. survey, and are described in Vol. 5, of the "Beports." 

Several years since, Bev. S. Bowers and wife collected over one 
hundred species of fossils in this locality. In the same range of hills, 
west of the town, large numbers of Turritelhi Cooperi may be found in 
a good state of preservation. Some eight years ago this fossil was 
found by the writer in large numbers at a point on the bluffs near 
More's Landing, weathered out on the surface. 

The late Prof. W. M. Gabb, Paleontologist of the California 
Geological Survey, refers the Santa Barbara fossils to the Post- 
Pliocene epoch. 

In the range of hills lying east and north of the city, extensive 
deposits of diatomaceons earth or rock may be seen, and in this lo- 
cality Dr. Finch has discovered the fossil bones of an animal which 
from a cursory examination, appear to be those of an extinct animal 
allied to the Dugong or Manatee (sea-cow, a herbiverous, swimming 
mammal, having the aquatic habits of the whale, and being one of the 
species on which the fable of the mermaid was founded) remains of 
which the writer discovered in Alameda county in this State, several 
years ago, the teeth of which have puzzled the most eminent of Paleon- 
tologists and comparative anatomists. 

Teeth and bones of the Mastodon were found in this county sev- 
eral years ago by the State Geological Survey. 

In 1876, the writer found a fragment of tusk of fossil elephant on 
Santa Bosa Island, in this county, (a relic of the times when the 



72 SANTA BAEBAKA COUNTY. 

channel islands formed a portion of the main land). 

In Mission canon and at other points along the line of the Santa 
Ynez range, are localities of Miocene fossils, principally oysters and 
pectens, (scallop shells). Good specimens of these fossils may be 
fonnd in the Gaviota Pass. 

Near the last named locality, fine specimens of fossil teeth of 
sharks have been found on the surface of the ground, having been 
weathered out of the miocene rocks. At Indian Orchard a tooth of 
another and interesting species of shark was found, specimens of 
which are in the writer's collection. 




AGRICULTURE. 

Cereals, Citrus and Deciduous Fruits, Lima Beans, 
Olive Oil, Honey, Etc. 



SOILS AND THEIR ADAPTATION TO THE GROWTH OF GRASSES, 
GRAINS AND FKt'ITS. 
[By George W. Coffin. 1 
Perhaps no country has a greater diversity of soils within the 
same number of square miles, than can be found in Santa Barbara 
county. Commencing on the mountains we find a grayish sand with 
some lime from sea shells, vegetable matter and some loam or light 
yellowish clay. On this, growing naturally, are live oak trees, many 
shrubs, or small growth of oak, ceanothus, wild apple, redwood, wild 
currant and gooseberry and several other varieties. There are plants 
too, such as the wild sunflower, morning glory, phacelias, thistles, 
ferns, etc.; and grasses, the cariso, or large bunch grass, several vari- 
eties of wood grass, aristada purpurea, or purple grass; and in de- 
pressions, the alnlleria and burr clover — the two most valuable forage 
plants known on the coast. Alnlleria is a Spanish word, and is gen- 
erally pronounced "fillaree," accenting the last syllable. It is a 
diminutive geranium of a delicious sweet flavor, eagerly eaten by all 
kinds of stock, and is not surpassed by the white clover of 
the East, in producing good-flavored milk, butter, beef and mut- 
ton. The burr clover bears sufficient resemblance to the red clover 
of the East to be readily recognized; its seed is borne in the axils or 
angles of its stems in a well-coiled burr. At maturity it falls, and the 
burr is sought all through the dry season by stock, and from the 
large amount of oil in the seed it possesses valuable fattening qualities. 

In the slight depressions near the summits of the mountains, 
apples, pears, peaches, plums and grapes grow, producing good 
fruit. So little, however, has yet been done in the way of planting 
on these elevated lands that their capabilities are scarcely under- 
stood. At the present writing, at Pat's Station and at Marshall's, an 



74 



SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 



altitude of about 3,000 feet, small orchards of these trees may be seen 
in a flourishing condition. There are other localities, some still 
higher, where the same fruits, as well as barley and wheat, may be 
successfully grown. 

Following the mountain range westward, it terminates in grassy 
hills as it approaches the ocean above Point Concepcion. These 
hills are formed of a light-colored earth or clay, or of a dark, almost 
black mould, and adobe, and another soil more particularly des- 
cribed hereafter; giving out numerous springs and streams, yielding 
largely of alfilleria and burr clover, affording the finest stock ranges 
on the coast. The superior quality and abundant growth of these 
forage plants on the San Julian, Santa Eosa, Lompoc and other 
ranchos, give the region a reputation for choice beef, mutton, butter 
and cheese, second to none in the State. There is a firmness to this 
black soil that prevents waste by rains; yet in certain conditions of 
dryness it is light and easily worked. It absorbs water readily and 
retains it a long time. Similar soils cover the hills, slopes and val- 
leys near Santa Barbara in many instances; and being protected by 
the mountain range (here from 3,000 to 4,000 feet high) from the 
north winds, and absorbing largely of the sun's rays, a difference of 
temperature occurs, favoring the production of many varieties of 
fruit which cannot be successfully grown in less favored places. 

Before descending to the soils of the lower slopes and flat lands 
as they approach the coast, there is a soil so peculiar and so valuable 
that it should have a more careful examination and more particular 
description. It is called "diatomaceous soil," and in its greatest 
purity is limited in extent. Yet though the limits are narrow in 
which it thus occurs, it mingles with much of the hill and slope soil, 
affecting it favorably in all instances. Diatoms, of which it is com- 
posed, were formerly supposed to be the shells of a minute sea-fish, 
similar to the rhizopods that form the chalk hills of England. But re- 
cent careful investigation by scientists proves them to be of vegetable 
origin. They are the seed pods of a marine plant, that were produced 
in such quantities that they now form these narrow belts of greyish 
white earth; sometimes found in highest hills, or on slopes, and in 
places in valleys where the strata cross, to appear again in the hills 
on the further side; as it runs in an east-and-west direction parallel 
with the coast. It is found on both slopes of the Coast Bange, from 
the Ojai to Point Concepcion and Point Arguello; also in the range on 
the opposite side of the Santa Ynez it can be recognized in the grey 
sides of peaks that face the valley. Sometimes branches of these 
strata may be seen on neighboring hills; they may be always known 
by the light grey color of their exposed surfaces. They are a silicate 
of lime; when dry they may be broken down by the thumb and finger 
into a powder; when wet, they form a smooth, adhesive paste. In 



SANTA BAKBAKA COUNTY. 75 

the localities of their greatest purity, they exist in all conditions of 
hardness, from that just named up to the genuine old-fashioned gun- 
flint, used on fire-arms in early times. 

This earth, considered as a soil, has, in a soft state, a great power 
of retaining moisture. "It holds water like a sponge," has often 
been said of it. Giving it off gradually, the streams are supplied 
through the long dry seasons; and as it mingles more or less with all 
other soils, except the real blue adobe, they are kept moist and pro- 
ductive without irrigation. This earth, mingling with a free black 
mould, forms the natural home of the alfilleria; with heavier black 
soil, burr clover does equally well. 

Wheat attains to great perfection in both of the above soils, as in- 
stanced by Dr. Finch, on the foothills near the city, where 60 bushels 
to the acre were produced without irrigation. Also, by J. W. Cooper, 
of the Santa Rosa rancho, in the Santa Ynez valley; on 20 acres of 
new land 1200 bushels were harvested —this also without irrigation; 
yet much was lost by reason of imperfect machinery in the reaping 
and threshing. 

[Mr. Thos. H. Hicks has just brought in from his 600-acre field 
in the same valley a bunch of wheat heads, most of them eight 
inches in length, and barley heads, six inches long, and all full of the 
finest and plumpest grain.] 

In the summer of 1882, Dr. J. B. Shaw raised on his ranch in 
Los Alamos valley, 103 bushels of barley to the acre on 100 acres 
together. These are given as evidence of the productive capacity of 
this soil under favorable circumstances. 

Among fruits, none finds a more congenial home on this soil than 
the olive. Ellwood Cooper of "Ellwood" is now reaping rich har- 
vests in proof of this. The most of his trees are on the kind of soil 
known as the black tenacious vegetable mould and diatomaceous earth. 
This may be known by occasional cream-colored or ashy, angular, 
small-sized rocks, lying about loose on the surface. A bunch of wild 
oats has been hanging in the writer's office for a week that measured 
nine feet high, grown on soil of this kind. It is also the choicest of 
wheat land. Apricots, plums, apples, peaches and grapes thrive 
vigorously and produce abundantly on it. 

The soil selected by J. Alston Hayne, Jr., for his olive orchard, 
near the Santa Ynez Mission, is the wash from gravelly and diatoma- 
ceous hills, and has also a black vegetable mould, which in combina- 
tion forms a rich and grateful food for the olive. 

It will be seen by the great extent of country influenced by the 
presence of diatoms, more or less, and the large and valuable pro- 
ducts of grass, grain and fruits, that it should be, as it is, held in 
high esteem by all. 



76 



SANTA BARBAE A COUNTY. 



The writer speaks of its extent, as he has personal knowledge of it 
and no farther. It may exist in other places than those named. It is 
to be hoped it does, for the benefit of possessors and "the rest of man- 
kind." 

Par up on the foothills, back of Santa Barbara and of the Mon- 
tecito valley, and extending well down into the valley, is a light 
colored soil of loam, mould and sand, not tenacious and hard, but 
what is usually called a "kind" soil. This is the home of the orange — 
in so far as yet tried — the true "orange belt." From here, (and oc- 
casionally from the orchard of Col. Hollister, which is in a valley 
between the foothills,) come some of the best oranges ever brought 
to this market. Until experiments go further and show differently, 
this must stand as a proven fact. 

Valley laud is generally too rich, causing a rapid and coarse 
growth of wood, leaf and fruit. When the underlying soil is gravelly 
so that the water may leach away and not stand about the roots of 
trees, irrigation may be practiced to beautify and swell the fruit, but 
it is always at the expense of ilavor. 

In the belt above named, there is an admirable adjustment of 
quality of soil, drainage, temperature and altitude to insure the great- 
est perfection in the tree and fruit. Irrigation is only adopted where 
loamy portions incline to too much sand, and then only in times of 
greatest drought. One singular fact in the production of the orange 
here, is that, in repeated trials between seedlings and the best budded 
varieties, by fair and competent judges, the former have been invari- 
ably declared the better. 

Lemons also grow well in this, though doing better in a heavier 
soil. They sometimes yield enormously. In one instance, where the 
trees were scattered over an acre and a quarter, that would have occu- 
pied an acre had they been properly placed, in the orchard of Col. 
Hollister, there were picked in one season 60,000 lemons. Averaging 
one cent apiece, as they did when sold, gave §600 as the product of 
one acre in a single season. 

Limes also do well on soils a little stronger than that required by 
the orange. But noDe of the citrus fruits should be planted on soils 
that are not or cannot be well drained. "Water souring about their 
roots will soon be detected by what is termed gum disease, which is 
an exudation of gum, first on the trunk of the tree near the ground, 
and afterwards on the branches and even on the leaves. 

On the hills and hill sides, where the earth noted above predomi- 
nates, our best grape lands are found; even though scattered over 
with boulders, the soil being good between, they grow and produce 
heavily. Many prefer this boulder land, as the rocks absorb the rays 
of the sun, giving them off again at night, thus keeping a temperature 
above that of the valleys or unobstructed plains. The difference be- 



SA^TA BAHBATtA COUNTY. 



77 



Ween the fruit from these slopes and that of the valley, is, in amount 
of saccharine matter, largely in favor of the hills or slopes. Market 
grapes are grown more than for wine, although about 40,000 gallons 
of wine have been made during the last year. No better soil can be 
found for raisin grapes. Some are made into raisins of superior 
quality, although the industry is not by any means established. 

At the mouths of some of the larger canons where the streams 
come out to a plain, almost level, they have in the course of centu- 
ries, brought down a large amount of worn down rocks, clay sand, and 
decayed vegetable matter. Distributing this admixture over the 
plains for several miles, it has formed the beautiful country of the 
Carpinteria and that called La Patera. In these favored localities the 
Lima bean production has become profitable. These soils seem 
especially adapted to their growth. Twenty-live hundred pounds 
liave been raised on a single acre and large fields have averaged a ton 
to the acre. Even smaller beans which thrive in less valuable soil, 
yield better in this. The value of Lima beans has frequently reached 
$100 per acre in a single season. [This is an excessively modest es- 
timate.] 

The peculiar adaptation of this soil for the growth of Lima beans 
was first recognized by Mr. Henry Fish, who made a contract with 
an eastern firm to furnish all the beans he could raise for a term of 
years, at 4 cents per pound. The result is, that Mr. Fish is in very 
comfortable circumstances. 

This soil is also the home of valuable orchards of apples, apricots, 
almonds, peaches, nectarines and plums. It seems to be especially 
adapted to the prune, as demonstrated by Mr. Eugene J. Knapp, 
whose cured fruit is unequalled in this market, and which, by his 
management, is largely remunerative. He grows the large and small 
French prunes. 

In some parts of these spreading plains are slight depressions 
where more moisture is retained and where the soil is deeper and of a 
darker color. Selecting one of these depressions, some twenty-four 
years ago, Mr. Bussel Heath cleared away the willows and began to 
plant the English walnut. His trees grew so well that he continued 
planting each year, until he has now some 8,000 trees, most of 
which are bearing. His sales in a single season have reached 35 tons, 
amounting to the snug sum of §7,000. 

Ellwood Cooper has about 7,000 trees, and Col. Hollister about 
10,000; most of the latter having been planted recently. It may be 
said of this nut that it delights in our best soils, the rich flats and 
banks of streams being the most favorable to it. 

Eight years after Col. Heath's experiment in Carpinteria, Mr. Jos. 
Sexton began to plant the walnut in Goleta, and Dr. Brinkerhoff in 
Santa Barbara. All these orchards have grown well and bid fair to 



78 SAJsTA BARBARA COUNTST, 

continue. About 85 tons of the nuts were shipped from this port last 
fall. 

One fruit, well worth mentioning, is produced in localities like 
the above; it is the strawberry. No better soil can be found for it, 
Mr. Hemingway, of the Cathedral Oaks, has produced in one year, 
from an acre of ground, ten tons of delicious fruit; and has also, on 
the same acre, orchard trees growing, now some four years old, set 
at regular distances in true orchard form. He irrigates freely in dry 
weather and has "fresh strawberries all the year round" literally. 

The Shepard brothers, in Carpinteria, are doing what Mr. Hem- 
ingway does in G-oleta, and from these two sources Santa Barbara 
draws her main supply of strawberries. The variety most in favor is t he 
"Monarch of the West." 

From this free mellow soil, we turn to the genuine old grey adobe. 
It is more staunch than the hills, yet capricious in the working. If 
not handled at precisely the right time, it locks itself up for the sea- 
son, and woe to the man who attempts to break through its closed 
doors. It dries and shrinks and breaks, leaving great yawning 
chasms between, into which the seeds of grains and grasses fall, to 
sprout and grow when autumn rains descend and cause an expansion 
of the rock-like clods till all is smooth again. When wet, it is too ad- 
hesive and cannot be handled; but taken at exactly the right time it 
X3roves a kind and pleasant soil, breaking into fine particles and re- 
maining moist and mellow through the dry season. A finely broken 
soil, three inches in depth, covering the ground all over, prevents 
hardening and cracking, and in this condition, no soil is more pro- 
ductive. In this, corn, barley and hay give large returns; apples, 
plums and pears do well, and in some instances, the English walnut . 
Apricots are productive in it. 

The lighter sands, near the ocean, are utilized by planting with 
sweet potatoes, which do wonderfully well in them; also with peanuts, 
which yield abundantly and are but little trouble to cultivate. 



LEMONS. 
[By Dr. L. N. Dimmick.] 
That portion of Santa Barbara south of the Santa Tnez Bange of 
mountains, lies in the choicest lemon belt of Southern .California. 
This district extends from Point Concepcipn to the Mexican line and 
includes all the protected localities within the equalizing influence of 
the ocean. The lemon and the lime are tenderer than the orange and 
will flourish only in a mild and equable temperature. The late B. B. 
Bedding asserted that "it is not safe to plant lemon trees where the 
thermometer occasionally falls to 25 degrees; lime trees lose their 
leaves at 30 degrees, and the young wood is killed at 2S degrees." The 
late cold winters have proven that lemon and lime orchards are not 



SA^TA BA"KBA±IA COmTT, 



safe in the interior away from the ocean. Even an the most favorable 
reasons the lemons grown in the interior are not as good and as at- 
tractive as those grown near the seacoast. The fruit of the latter is 
s*ound, of medium size, the rind is thin and smooth, and the pulp is 
.juicy. In the interior the fruit is larger and elongated, the rind is 
roughened and thicker, and the pulp less juicy. South of the Santa 
Ynez mountains the temperature rarely falls "below 30° except in the 
lowest valleys. This district will eventually be largely devoted to the 
production of the choicest varieties of the lemon and lime-. 



LIMA ^EANS. 
[By L. B. Hogue,] 

Some thirteen years ago a farmer in the then sparsely populated 
and undeveloped Carpinteria Valley, planted a few Lima beans and 
succeeded in obtaining both a good yield and a paying price. Others 
followed his example till fifty or a hundred tons were produced, which 
seemed for a time to exceed the demand for the article. But the de- 
mand grew apace, and the farmers continued to supply it till the pro- 
duct has reached ten to fifteen hundred tons annually. The different 
stages of the business as preparation of soil, care of growing croj> and 
harvesting has been reduced almost to a science by our fanners, and 
they are now as prosperous possibly as any other people on the coast* 

The seed is put into the ground about the first of May, in drills, 
and after some attention in the early part of the season, the crop is 
left to grow and spread over the ground until fully matured in the 
fall. The bean fields give the valley a rich and green appearance all 
summer long, and are a source of pleasure as well as profit. The 
roads leading to the warehouses and whari are mostly level and hard> 
so that the produce is hauled to shipping at a trifling expense. The 
beans all go east via San Francisco. Yet we faithfully hope that a 
railroad will tap this section ere long, giving us a direct outlet to the 
east over' the Atlantic & Pacific. The yield per acre of the Lima bean 
has usually been about a ton, but has fallen below that the past two 
seasons on account of a scant rainfall. Prices fluctuate in a manner 
quite interesting to those most concerned, and, although the price for 
the last two crops has not been so high as in some former instances, 
it is gratifying to note that it has kept well above the lowest record. 
The apparent tendency of the market is to seek a medium and become 
more steady as the business grows in extent. I suppose that three 
cents per pound would not be far from the average for the last two 
crops. By the advent of recent labor-saving inventions the cost of 
harvesting has been materially reduced. 



OLIVE CULTURE. 
[Prom Ellwood Cooper's "Treatise on Olive Culture. 1 "] 
The following paragraphs are translated from the French of 



so 



SANTA BAEBABA COUNTY. 



Bertile: "The touching story of the flight of the dove from Noah's 
ark, related in Genesis, proves the existence of the olive tree in the 
earliest period of the world's history. 

It was a celebrated tree among the ancients. It held the first 
rank in their mythology; Minerva taught the Athenians how to pre- 
pare the fruit, and they had a most religious respect for it. The Kom- 
ans used the wood not only for fuel, but on the altars of their gods. It 
was the emblem of peace. * * * • The olive tree trans- 
ported from Egypt to Attica, belongs to the jasmine family, with 
evergreen foliage, small blossoms in clusters, and having some like- 
ness to the elder tree flowering in June. It can be propagated in 
many ways, but the best way is by planting the seeds, and it is one 
which is practiced least. Except in damp soils where its roots rot 
the olive grows everywhere. It accustoms itself to both dry and wet 
climates. Clay and mud are indifferent to it. Its long life is prover- 
bial. In return, it takes thirty years, a man's lifetime, before it 
reaches its full capacity for bearing fruit. Of this tree, one of the 
most valuable gifts of nature, there exist 16 or 17 species, all exotic. 
Its fruit is oval, fleshy, with a hard woody seed enclosing a kernel. 
The meat, fine and covered with a green skin before its maturity, 
softens and becomes a purplish black in ripening; it is then that they 
grind them in the mill, then put them in a press to extract the oil. 

With some exceptions one may say that in the Mediterranean 
Basin, from the 35th to the 43d degree of latitude is surrounded with 
a belt of olive trees. It is from this region that all Europe receives 
its oil for table use and light. * * * Eich in azote, and 
with considerable nutritive qualities, olive oil possesses, in the first 
place, the power of assimilating with the human body. It is instru- 
mental in assisting in many medicinal cures where the method is 
cutaneous. It being more liquid than animal fat, always used for 
that purpose, it is easier to absorb. The injured parts, protected 
from the air by oily substances or salves, heal more quickly. These 
unctions give besides, more suppleness and elasticity to the muscles. 
As it is not penetrated by the poisons in the atmosphere, it is used 
with success in counteracting the deleterious miasma around swampy 
districts. It ought to be greatly preferred for the hair to pomades, 
as it acts more quickly on the scalp. Taken daily, by the spoonful, 
it is an excellent laxative to the system, and not tiresome to the 
stomach. "* * * Mechanics refuse seed oils because of 
their dryness, as they gum up machinery, instead of greasing it and 
keeping it clean. It is just as important that the machinery of the 
human body should rebel against such oils. We ought to be familiar 
with the methods of extracting oil from all oleaginous substances, be- 
ing so necessary to different industries. But all the table oil should 
give the preference to that made from a tree that the Almighty saved 



SANTA BAKBAKA COUNTY. 81 



from the destruction of the Deluge and a branch of which the dove 
carried to Noah as a sign of forgiveness." 

We refer readers to Mr. Cooper's Treatise for a full description of 
the manner of propagating, xoruning and caring for the olive, as 
well as the process of making the oil and pickles. We can here but 
give a few extracts. In regard to the propagation of the tree, Mr. 
Cooper says: The common and pref erred method is to plant the cut- 
tings taken from the growing trees of sound wood, from three-quar- 
ters of an inch in diameter, to one and a half, and from fourteen to 
sixteen inches long. These cuttings should be taken from the trees 
during the months of December and January, neatly trimmed, with- 
out bruising and carefully trenched in loose sandy soil; a shady place 
preferred. They should be planted in permanent sites from February 
20th to March 20th, depending upon the season. The ground should 
be well prepared and sufficiently dry so that there is no mud and the 
weather warm. In Santa Barbara, near the coast, no irrigation 
is necessary; but very frequent stirring of the top soil with 
a hoe or iron rake for a considerable distance around the cuttings is 
necessary during the spring and summer. About three-fourths of all 
that are well planted will grow. My plan is to set them twenty feet 
apart each way, and place them in the ground butt end down, and at 
an angle of about forty-five degrees, the top to the north barely cov- 
ered. Mark the place with a stake. By planting them obliquely, 
the bottom end will be from ten inches to one foot below the surface. 
In Europe the trees are planted from 27 to 33 feet apart. My reasons 
for closer planting will be given in a subsequent article. 

All trees, as a rule, should be propagated from seeds. The roots 
are more symmetrical, the tree not so liable to be blown over, and the 
growth more healthful; but I have not been successful in germinating 
them, hence I recommend the cutting. If trees are propagated from 
seeds, budding or grafting is necessary. I have seen the statement 
that it was necessary that the seeds should pass through the stomachs 
of birds before they could be sprouted; also that by soaking in strong- 
lye the sprouting would be secured. I have not seen the result of 
either experiment, and accept the statement with more or less dis- 
trust. I presume cuttings can be obtained from any of the Mission 
orchards in the southern counties. * * * The cuttings 
will throw up numerous shoots or sprouts, all of which should be left 
to grow the first year, any disturbance of the top affects the growth 
of the roots. It would be advisable, however, where there are two or 
more vigorous shoots of about the same size and height from the 
same cutting, to pinch the tops of all excepting the one to be left for 
the future tree, so as to throw more force and vigor into that one. * 

* * Trees growing from cuttings will produce fruit the 
fourth year, and sometimes, under the most favorable circumstances, 



S2 SANTA BARBARA CTOtfNTY, 

will give a few berries the third year. It is the habit of the tree to 
overbear, and as a consequence will give but little fruit the year fol- 
lowing a heavy crop. This statement is verified by the most reliable 1 
books published on the subject in the French, Italian and Spanish- 
languages. There are, however, exceptions to this rule in California, 
Mr. Davis, who had charge of the San Diego Mission orchard in 1875 y 
assured me that he had gathered from the same tree, two years in suc- 
cession, over 150 gallons of berries. I have also observed that some 
trees in my orchards have borne well successive years. The fruit- 
bearing can be controlled by the pruning. The cultivator will not 
forget that the slioots or branches must be two years old before they 
will give fruit, hence, partial pruning every year will give partial 
crops. My oldest orchard was planted February 21st, 1872. At four 
years I gathered from some of the trees over two gallons of berries. 
In 1878 over thirty gallons each off a few of the best trees, the orchard 
then being only six years old. In 1879; the crop was not nearly so 
large. I had planted several thousand cuttings in the spring of 1873, 
but these trees did not give at six years, a result equal to the first 
planting. The present crop, (1880) is quite good; the oldest orchard 
now being eight years, and I think I do not overestimate, when I 
state that the yield of some of the best and fullest trees will be over 
forty gallons. Trees large enough to give this quantity of fruit? 
planted at a distance of twenty feet, will occupy nearly all the ground, 
and therefore give all the fruit that can be produced on one acre. * * 

The newness and richness of our soil will probably give, the first 
fifty years, double the best results given in those countries where oil 
making has been the business for so many generations. Our climate 
is congenial to the habit of the tree; it blossoms from the 1st to the 
10th of May, and the fruit forms from the 1st to the 10th of June. 
At this season we have our best weather, free from extremes of either 
cold or heat. Nowhere in the world are all the conditions so favor- 
able to perfect fruit-bearing. * * * 

The olive usually ripens in November. In some localities in 
Eastern countries during favorable years, the fruit picking for oil 
begins as early as October, and for pickling, in September. In Santa 
Barbara the crop of last year, (1880) as also that of 1878, was unusu- 
ally late in ripening, not being ready to pick before the middle of 
January — a delay of fully two months — the cause no doubt owing to 
the extraordinary rain fall of these two years. 



HONEY. 



A very comprehensive little paper, on the history and progress of 
the bee business in Santa Barbara, written by Oeo. A. Temple, then 
a partner in the Queen City Apiary, appeared in the pamphlet pub- 



SATSTA BABBABA COUNTY. 83 



lished by Joseph J. Perkins in 1881. The same was submitted to 
Judge Hatch, now sole owner of a number of apiaries scattered 
through the county, and being pronounced correct in the main, is here 
reproduced by special permission of Mr. Perkins : 

The vicissitudes of bee-keeping have been many and varied, it 
having passed through the ordeal of haps and mishaps usual to the 
early history of almost all business ventures, and it stands to-day on 
a substantial basis of success, and an assured prosperity. Having no 
data, however, while at my apiary to guide me in such an interesting- 
research, I shall be obliged to confine myself to such matters as I ap- 
prehend will be of interest or instructive to any who may contem- 
plate embarking in the business here. I will simply say in passing, 
that bees were first introduced into this county as early as 1860 or '61, 
by Mr. Miner, who imported some eight or ten swarms, which 
he readily disposed of for the modest sum of $50 per swarm. Mr. 
Miner is also credited with having built the first frame house in Santa 
Barbara — northwest corner of Monteoito and State streets. To Mr. 
Jefferson Archer, however, belongs the credit of being the pioneer 
bee-man of Santa Barbara county. Coming here in December, 1873, 
and bringing with hitn about forty-five stands of bees, he was the 
first to engage exclusively, and on an extensive scale, in apiculture in 
this county. Since Mr. Archer demonstrated that this county was 
eminently adapted to honey-raising for profit, many have followed in 
his footsteps more or less extensively and with varying success, and 
this interesting and profitable industry has been gradually extended 
until, with the close of the season of 1880, there were about 4,000 
stands of bees in the county, which had yielded a product of rather 
more than 128 tons — (256,000 lbs.)— of extracted honey. 

That portion of Santa Barbara county adapted to j^rofitable honey 
raising, compared with the extent of territory devoted to this industry 
in some other counties, is limited, but the quality of its honey is un- 
surpassed, and while great advancement, both in the amount of pro- 
duct and methods employed in the apiary have been made since 
apiculture became a recognized industry in the county, there is yet 
ample scope for much greater extension. From the easternmost bor- 
der of the county to its extreme western limit, honey-producing 
plants abound in profusion, upon the scarred and rugged face of 
every mountain and throughout the length and breadth of nearly 
every canon, while upon each plain and in every valley, the glad 
humming of the "busy little bee," eagerly searching for nectar in 
the myriads of flowers there in bloom, makes glad the heart of the 
apiarist. The mountain redwood, the black ball sage, sumac, grease 
wood, coffee berry, etc., each in its proper time, furnishes abundant 
honey during the "building up" or brood-rearing period in the 
spring, but it is chiefly from the bloom of the sage family— the A. 



S4 



SANTA BAEEAEA COUNTY. 



nivea (button sage) and the A. polystachya (white sage) that the 
bulk of the honey crop is secured. These bloom profusely, and 
yield large quantities of honey from about May 1st until August 1st, 
during which time the entire honey product of the county is har- 
vested. To persons with limited capital , who are not averse to 
dwelling amid the solitude of the mountains, and who can bring 
energy, perseverance and good judgment to their asssistance in the 
undertaking, apiculture offers large inducements. The possibilities 
in apiculture are immense, while the average profit on the capital in- 
vested, considering the amount of labor and time necessary to be 
applied in securing a crop,, is greater than in many of the more pre- 
tentious industries of the county. A profit of four hundred per cent, 
on the investment has been realized from an entire apiary, while 
even a larger interest from individual swarms is by no means un- 
common. 

I have no desire, however, to give the impression that apiculture 
" is one of the greatest bonanzas in the land, but wish it to be well un- 
derstood that a fair profit may reasonably be expected by any one apply- 
ing intelligently the latest improved methods of manipulation. Bees 
may be purchased in the winter and spring at prices ranging from $2.50 
to $5 and $8 per swarm, and material for hives may be purchased at the 
planing mill in Santa Barbara cut and ready to nail together for 75 
cents each. With a fair to ordinary season a good swarm will yield 
from 150 to 250 pounds of extracted honey, worth last season about 
six cents per pound net in Santa Barbara. Besides the yield of honey 
a good swarm of bees will increase two swarms in a season, while in- 
stances are not rare of a swarm — with its earliest increase — producing 
as many as five or even ten swarms in a season, to the infinite delight 
of the amateur apiarist. The following statement will give a better 
ilea of what may be accomplished in this business with a very small 
outlay of capital : 

Apiary debtor to one swarm bees , 8 5 00 

To one hive (all made) . 1 00 

S 6 00 

Credit- 
By 150 pounds of honey at 6 cents net 3 9 00 

One swarni bees..... 5 00 

814 00 

A net profit, at a very reasonable estimate of S 8 00 

Or 133% per cent, on capital invested— a very fair profit. 
But like all other California industries dependent upon the rains 
for success, apiculture is subject to occasional drawbacks. An insuffi- 
cient rain-fall, though perhaps stimulating plants to put forth the 
usual amount of bloom, lessens the quality of honey or curtails it 
altogether, while a general drought affects bees as disastrously as it 
does sheep, cattle or any other stock.- The latter, however, is fortu- 
nately of rather infrequent occurrence, thereby enabling an apiary to 
recuperate from its destructive influence. Aluch of the success of 



SANTA BABBAKA COUNTY. 85 

apiculture depends upon the method or system employed in market- 
ing the product; but as that subject does not properly come within 
the scope of this article I will leave it and simply suggest that a 
closer acquaintance between producer and consumer will conduce to 
larger profits on apiarian investments; and more systematic and 
united efforts On the part of the apiarists of the county to properly 
grade and marKet their honey, will tend to unprecedented apicultural 
prosperity. 

FEUITS OF ONE BANCHO. 

Scarcely as a representative farm, but rather as showing of what 
the country is capable in its highest development, attention is direct- 
ed to Col. Hollister's thrifty plantations at Glen Annie. The follow- 
ing facts are kindly furnished by the proprietor : 

Of citrus fruits there are upon the rancho 1200 orange tiees, 500 
limes and 500 lemons. These are cultivated entirely without irriga- 
tion; and to that fact is attributed the the extra fineness and intensity 
of flavor of the oranges. These trees are mostly seedlings. 

Of deciduous fruits, such as apples, cherries, plums, "peaches, nec- 
tarines, apricots, etc., there about 2500 trees; 4000 English walnuts, 
1000 olives, 10,000 almonds. Of the Japanese persimmon there are 
200 trees. This is a most delicious fruit, the result of the evolution 
of ages through better cultivation. 

In addition to the above there are figs, guavas, loquats, shad- 
dock and many varieties of ornamental trees and shrubs. Among 
the small fruits cultivated are fine strawberries, blackberries and red 
and white raspberries. 

In the vegetable garden, green peas can be gathered every day in 
the year, and most other varieties of vegetables could be the same if 
properly cultivated. Irish potatoes do exceptionally well in this lo- 
cality; sweet potatoes are very prolific and grow to perfection. 

Of the cereals, nearly all kinds do well; Indian corn, especially, 
often producing one hundred bushels to the acre. In fact, so far as 
experiments have been tried, almost all food-producing crops were 
found successful. These experiments which have been spread over a 
series of years, at a cost of thousands of dollars, have been of great 
benefit to smaller farmers, who could not for themselves have made 
such expensive trials. One costly experiment was the tea-plant. Col. 
Hollister sent to Japan in 1872 for twenty-five bushels of the seed; im- 
porting also two Japanese tea-growers to attend the plantation. They 
actually raised 50,000 plants, which seemed to do well, growing from 
four to eight inches in height. As long as the warm weather lasted 
they flourished; but when the nights became cold they gave up the 
battle. It is the Colonel's opinion that a moister country, where 



86 



SANTA BAKBAKA COUNTY. 



sultry nights obtain, would be the proper climate for the plant. 

Coffee was tried, but not to so great an extent that it can be call- 
ed a settled question. Col. Hollister says that he did not give it a fair 
trial, and is of the opinion that it would do tolerably half way up the 
mountain sides. The date palm, now fruiting, seems to promise a suc- 
cess. It is a beautiful ornamental tree, at least, and for that purpose 
will always be a favorite. 

The Glen Annie property comprises about 4800 acres; upon which 
there are now grazing about six hundred head of neat cattle, eighty 
horses and mules, five hundred hogs, and a thousand sheep. The 
dairy consists of one hundred and fifty cows, giving for constant milk- 
ing about one hundred. 

All fruit not disposed of in a fresh state is dried and packed for 
market on the place. There are employed upon the farm regularly 
about thirty laborers, whose compensation ranges from twenty to thir- 
ty dollars per month, with board and lodging. 



MISCELLANEOUS INDUSTEIES. 

Sericulture is an industry which is especially adapted to the climatic 
and other conditions of the coast and of Santa Barbara county. 
Here the first experiments were made twenty -five years ago. The first 
silk flag ever made in the State of California was manufactured from 
the cocoons of Santa Barbara silk worms. The mulberry trees plant- 
ed by Messrs. Packard and Goux still remain to prove the theory here 
advanced. There is at present a renewal of interest in the subject, 
owing to the action of the Government, and there is some reason to 
hope that a sericulture station for experiments may be established 
here. 

Pampas plumes are among our most notable exports — thousands 
are shipped every season to Europe and the East. It is a paying bus- 
iness. An acre of ground has been known to produce plumes which 
sold for more than $1000. 

Free stone is another item by which the c ountry will some time 
be made wealthier, when its quality and value become more widely 
known: 

Oil wells have not, so far, been developed to any alarming extent, 
although petroleum certainly exists in many places. At times com- 
panies have been formed and efforts made to bring the oil to the sur- 
face in paying quantities, and in the neighboring county of Ventura, 
the wells have been rendered a source of profit. 

Mining of all kinds has never got much of a foothold within the 
county, the only paying mineral product so far being the asphaltum, 
which is shipped in large quantities. 



CATTLE, HOGS, POULTRY. 



Thoroughbreds, Dairying and Wool-Grow- 
ing in Santa Barbara. 



THE HOESE IN SANTA BAEBAEA. 

[By A. W. Canfield.] 

A reputation was long ago made for this county, as one of the 
most desirable places in the world for the breeding of horses. The 
native horse, foaled among the wild beasts of the mountains, came 
into the world to fear every sound; many a colt in those days fell a 
prey to the lions or grizzlies which roamed among the mountains. 
Those which survived gamboled among the oaks and pines, feeding 
upon the rich grasses on the rolling lands, in this dry and even 
climate — all these points making uij the requisites which are sought 
for by those who have made a success of horse-breeding. 

The staying powers of the native horse were wonderful. Only a 
few years ago an old "pinto," which had daily delivered groceries 
about town for many years, weighted with a California saddle of 50 
pounds, besides his rider, made the distance between Santa Barbara 
and Los Angeles — over 100 miles — without shoes, between sun and 
sun in one day! 

Another ran four mile heats in Los Angeles county in 7:30. The 
last quarter of the last mile was covered in 19% seconds. Score upon 
score of such instances might be noted where a California horse, 
raised in this county, has performed deeds of speed and endurance 
that would arouse enthusiasm anywhere in the world where ever the 
horse is known and appreciated. Seventy-five miles a day is no un- 
common ride for a Santa Barbara horse and vaquero to make; and 
these same horses are turned loose in a corral or picketed upon the 
native 'grasses, without further care, the next day to buckle again to 
his usual work. 

The "iron age" for the native horse came with the introduction of 
staging through the country; no farrier ever crippled the nimble feet 



ss 



SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 



of our mountain steeds, until the advent of civilization with all its 
cunning artifice, which came to war upon slumbering nature. In 
quality, shape and limberness, the foot of the horse raised upon the 
inland ranges of Santa Barbara county, is surpassed by no class of 
horses on earth. Since we have supplanted the native Californian 
with the so-called * 'American horse" the quality of bone and of the 
foot is quite noticeable; for the usual splints are few, and quarter 
cracks and contraction and ails are almost unheard of. 

The American horse matures a year earlier than in colder coun- 
tries; two-year-olds are equally developed with three-year-olds in New 
York. The writer has broken to harness many two-year-olds upon 
his farm, when they went to work alongside of sis-year-olds, doing 
their full share without any appearance of suffering. 

It is, really, not our breed of horses, but the breed of climate, 
grasses, soil and water that makes the horse of the country. In this 
enterprise of horse-breeding Santa Barbara still offers inducements 
to capitalists. The markets of the great southwest and Mexico, with 
our own rapidly settling country, will absorb every fine horse that 
can be raised for many years to come. 



HOGS. 
[By L. Babcock.] 

The following practical suggestions on hog-raising are extracted 
from an article on the subject, prepared by Mr. L. Babcock for the 
Independent : 

The question is frequently asked me, is the raising of hogs a good 
business in California. I answer, yes. My reasons are as follows : 
Some would say that if everybody went into the business the supply 
would be too great, and there would not be a sufficient demand. But 
that is impossible, for two reasons. First, the great grain-producing 
valleys of California are nearly destitute of running water; second, the 
cost of fencing is too great. The laws of California protect a man's 
crops, and but few farmers will go to the expense of fencing. 

Again, the world has had no devastating wars or fatal diseases for 
the past nineteen years, and with the rapid increase of human souls, 
our beef and mutton supplies are not in fair proportion to 
the requirements of the meat-eating races. Then our large 
cattle and sheep ranches are being subdivided and sold out to 
small farmers. We all know, or least I do, that extensive cattle-raising 
is almost at an end in North America. I will state here that in 1811 
nearly all of the country west of the State of Indiana was one vast ex- 
panse of prairie, grazing lands, and parts of it were covered with an 
unlimited number of buffalo, elk, deer, antelope, etc., that furnished 
tbe aborigines or Indians with their supplies of food for the susten- 
ance of life, and now we have to feed them (the Indians) on beef. 



\ 

'SA^TA BARBARA COtltfTY. 



The reason why I referred back to 1841 was to show the young 
a-eader and others how there has been a steady increase in the demand 
from that time till this, for meat and grease; that prices have kept 
pace with the demand; that the increase of our mining industries make 
an increased demand for bacon and lard, bacon being the only meat 
convienie&t for the miner. As he digs metal out of the earth, he does 
not grumble at the price of his daily bacon. Our desert and mining 
lands must depend upon farming localities for their food supplies, as 
we upon them for the metals. 

Hogs can be raised here with little trouble after you are prepared, 
as we do not have any or but few storms during each year, and no 
fatal diseases such as cholera. Neither have we any trichinae in the 
bacons on this coast. 

On the 19th of May, 1881, I purchased 120 acres of land in the 
Xiompoc valley, all fenced and improved ready to go into the business 
of raising and preparing hogs for the market. I also bought 600 head 
-of hogs, big and little, and the growing crop, at a cost of $13,066. I 
raised grain on 100 acres of the ranch. On the last of August, 1881, 
sold to Sherman & Ealand, of Santa Barbara, 302 head of hogs. They 
received them on the ranch and paid me §1962. 50. In September, 
1882, I shipped to San Francisco, 323 head of hogs, off the same 
ranch, and sold them for $3801,26, and after deducting all expenses 
of driving, shipping, commission, etc., I got a net return of $3,284.63. 
And I have 100 or more still left on the ranch. 

The past three years have not been extra for grain raising, but 
fair. You can figure the profits for yourself. Poor or medium lands 
would not give so good an income, but there would not be much cap- 
ital invested as the land would not cost so much per acre, though the 
fencing would be the same. A band of hogs, large or small, are not 
destructive to a grain field when turned into it at the proper time, or 
to stacks of reaped or headed grain that has been prepared for their 
use. The hog wastes nothing — except young chickens, ducks, tur- 
keys and lambs, and sometimes "cultivates" the flower garden. He is 
a great expert in "legerdemain." Give him all he wants to eat and 
lie is quiet, and soon ready for market. The quicker you get your 
money out of him, the better. Never hold on for an extreme high 
price. When the hog is fat. sell him, and go for more. In conclu- 
sion, let me say that you must have land, water and good fences, to 
make hog-raising profitable. 



DAIRYING. 
[From the Independent of Dec. 15, 1884.] 
During the winter season, while grass is plenty, is the busy sea- 
son for the north county dairymen, and the amount of butter produc- 
ed is then the highest. San Luis Obispo county has for some time 



90 SAXTA BARBARA COUNTY. 



been the headquarters for dairy interests of Southern California, 
and it is only of late that Santa Barbara county has claimed any im- 
portance in this branch of industry.- But the Swiss of San Luis, as 
also the Americans in the business, have been gradually spreading out 
and down until there are dairies down as far as Las Cruces. In con- 
versation with Antonio Bighetti, proprietor of thelNajoqui dairy, near 
Las Cruces, a few facts were learned in regard to the profits of butter 
making. Taking one dairy as an illustration, of 1,500 acres, upon, 
which 150 cows are milked during the winter, and fifty or sixty dur- 
ing the summer, it willbe seen that there is much money to be made, 
if properly managed. During the season of ample feed, the amount 
of butter produced upon the Najoqui is about 185 pounds per day. 
This is shipped regularly once a week to San Francisco by steamer 
from Gaviota in boxes, and nets in San Francisco to the dairyman, 21 
cents. This makes a return of $38.85 per day for butter alone. Be- 
sides this, the proprietor feeds a calf for each cow, which becomes a 
source of profit, in the neighborhood of 810 each per year, or about 
§1,500 per annum for the calves. Besides this, about May, after the 
calves have been turned from, milk to pasture, there is sour milk 
enough to fatten eighty hogs. These are worth five cents per pound. 
A hog weighing 100 pounds when first bought, in a month should 
weigh 200 upon the rich healthful diet, making a gain of 100 pounds 
at 5 cents equal to 85 on each hog, or $400 on the lot as a month's 
profit. In these three items, butter, calves and hogs, the profit lies. 
The income from them depends upon the skill, energy, intelligence 
and industry of the proprietor. The Swiss, judging by their past suc- 
cess and present growth, are gaining the ascendancy, probably from 
more thrifty habits. Upon the ranch taken as an example 84,000 has 
been cleared in a year. The capital invested in land, cattle and fix- 
tures was 82,500, being a profit of 17 per cent. But this was not all. 
At the close of the year the property had almost doubled in value 
through improvements in the land and stock and increase in calves. 
Only six men employed at 830 per month are required upon the Na- 
joqui and eight horses for saddle and four work animals. These fig- 
ures are given in a rough shape as it is impossible to calculate close- 
ly upon a business where the individuality of the proprietor makes 
such a difference. But it is a significant fact that after ten vears work 
one Swiss dairyman has rented his ranch and returned to Switzerland, 
living upon the interest of his money. The business is 'not difficult 
to learn. We are told that none of the Swiss who now do such a large 
proportion of the business understood it when they first came here, 
but learned it simply by working upon dairy ranches. The industry 
now looks more promising than ever. Butter being always in demand 
makes an unfailing market. The soil if properly managed may yet 
solve the summer problem and an equal number of cattle be milked all 
the vear round. 



SANTA BAKBAKA COUNTY. 91 

POULTKY. 
[By A. W. Canfield.] 

We will offer an occupation to every man and woman able to do 
anything. Sometime the question may come to you, What shall I 
do when I get to Santa Barbara? Let me answer ! You can raise poul- 
try with profit near our growing city, with pleasure and profit. Fowls 
are in ready demand at our hotels and restaurants the year round. 
It is now May 5th, and chickens or fowls are bought at $7 per dozen; 
eggs are always in good demand, the highest price of the year being 
fifty cents per dozen, the lowest price fifteen cents. The aver- 
age price may fairly be estimated at thirty cents per dozen. With 
these very fair prices you calculate that a brood of chickens may be 
raised from chickenhood to maturity through any part of the year in 
the open air with great success. Mortality in chicks about Santa Bar- 
bara is very slight when proper care and feed is given the fowl and 
brood. Cleanliness is the main thing the denizens of our poultry 
yards demand of their keepers. Everything else will go well if the 
proprietor of "commercial poultry keeping" will observe this law. 
Grain, vegetables, butchers' scraps, hotel and restaurant refuse can 
always be bought at a price that pays to feed fowls about Santa Bar- 
bara. 

The incubator is receiving considerable attention from those so 
enthusiastic that numbers and labors and care are of no manner of 
account until the problem is thrust squarely before them. Our 
matchless climate, so even after sun down to sun rise, allows the incu- 
bator to do the best possible iwork. The hatch from the incubators 
the past season is fully equal to the same work done by the hen- 
mothers. The county is stocked with a fair quality of common fowls 
and the yards of our local fanciers afford variety equal to any, 
and excellence of type that will satisfy the most exacting judge of 
high-grade fowls. 

For the delicate man of moderate means no better nor pleasanter 
occupation offers itself than the keeping of a number of fowls. Any 
day that one is well enough to be about, the care of poultry is not det- 
rimental to the most sensitive nature. Occupation that employs the 
hands takes care off the mind and relieves that depression that always 
goes with ill health especially when a person has no employment. 
Cheap lands and snug little homes can be had near Santa Barbara 
suitable for poultry keeping. Those who have kept fowls elsewhere 
and will try them in Santa Barbara will have no trouble in starting in 
the right direction. To the novice we would offer a word of caution, 
"go slow;" observe the differences in the changes of country, and 
allow the poultry business to "grow to you," and it will be found an- 
other among the long list of useful pursuits which is preeminently 
adapted to Santa Barbara county. 



HUNTING AND FISHING. 



Sport on Land and Sea in and About Santa 

Barbara. 



Santa Barbara is preeminently a game county. In the proper 
season wild geese and ducks, snipe, quail and rabbits (both cotton- 
tail and jack rabbits) are plentiful, affording both pleasure and profit 
to the scientific Nfmrod. Along the Santa Ynez river and among the 
foothills deer are likewise to be found in numbers; and twenty miles 
from the city the grizzly may be interviewed by the cool and cautious 
hunter who desires such an interview. There, too, and up in the 
Cuyama country, may be found the mountain sheep, the coon, the 
wildcat, the coyote and the California lion, which is really a cougar. 
The gamy trout abounds in mountain streams, and all these at a short 
distance from civilization, easily reached on horseback, the best hunt- 
ing grouads not being favorable for the passage of wheeled vehicles. 

THE FISHERIES. 

The Santa Barbara Channel, which includes the coast from Point 
Concepcion to Ventura, bordered by the islands of San Miguel, Santa 
Rosa, Santa Cruz and Anacapa, as a fishing ground has no superior 
on the whole coast of California. The islands are fringed with kelp: 
so also is the main shore, and this marine growth gives security and 
feeding grounds for the rock cod, red fish, craw fish, smelt, flounder, 
halibut, sardine and other varieties. In winter mackerel of 
fine flavor are taken; during the months of June and July 
the delicate pompano is found in abundance, and during the sea- 
son (summer) the barracuda, bonita and albacore are taken by troll- 
ing in sail boats. It requires a stiff breeze to decoy them to the pre- 
tending sardine, and pleasure combines with profit in a day so spent 
upon the blue waters of the channel. Parties are formed almost daily 
during the season, who are taken out by' one of the pleasure boats, 
schooners and other craft, to spend the day upon the water, coming 



SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 93 

back at night with loads of fish and sunburnt faces. 

The abalone trade is worth mentioning as a separate industry. 
The shells are gathered upon the islands and shipped east to be 
wrought into jewelry. The clams of the coast have been noted 
hitherto; there are also mussels in quantity and traditions of oyster 
beds about the islands. 

The seal and otter hunters, for whom Santa Barbara was once 
noted, still ply their adventurous trade; but the game they seek is no 
longer plenty in the old haunts about the islands. The otter in fact 
have about disappeared from these waters; but the seal rookeries on 
the different islands are yet of sufficient importance to tempt an occa- 
sional crew of hardy mariners. 

As a sea-port town, Santa Barbara has naturally a number of 
craft always lying near the wharf or flying here and there about the 
channel, and a favorite pleasure trip is that of crossing the channel to 
the islands, of which much might be said. But we have already spun 
out our descriptions to a far greater degree than was anticipated and 
circumstances over which we have no control oblige us to come to a stop . 

Wool Growing. 

It is not many years ago that this county was preeminently a 
sheep district. From paragraphs scattered here and there throughout 
this pamphlet, it will be gathered by the sapient reader that wool- 
growing no longer occupies the ranch owner to the exclusion of 
everything else. The industry was introduced by Col. Hollister, 
more than twenty-five years ago, he bringing a band of sheep across 
the continent as his sole wealth. The story of his experience has 
been often told — a story which must interest every one, on account of 
the dogged perseverance displayed, with which he clung to the busi- 
ness, against all manner of drawbacks, until he became the owner of 
thousands oi; acres of the finest land on earth, and these acres inhab- 
ited by flocks and herds of almost fabulous value. 

But the business of sheep and wool growing is, as we have be- 
fore intimated, no longer of the first importance. It requires too 
much land to be entered into without considerable capital, and those 
of small means will scarcely think of it. We had contemplated a full 
account of the industry from its first inception, but have been obliged 
reluctantly to abandon the idea. 

There are now, in fact, but two or three large sheep-owners re- 
maining in this county — the Dibblees, J. W. Cooper and Col. Hollis- 
ter being the only ones owning them by the thousand. This, how- 
ever, does not include the islands. Both Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz 
are largely stocked with sheep. Small schooners owned by the pro- 
prietors are kept busy between the islands and the main land, and 
steamers also touch at the island wharves to carry the wool and mut- 
ton to the San Francisco market. 



AN ADDRESS 



Delivered by Hon. Chas. Fernald, Mayor of 
Santa Barbara, 



Before the Agricultural and Horticultural Societies of 
Santa Barbara, at Lobero's Theatre, 
October 11th, 1883. 



Mr. President, Ladies and Gentlemen of the Santa Barbara Agri- 
cultural and Horticultural Societies : I "believe I ought first to con- 
gratulate you upon the success of your fair. This display of the 
varied and rich products of our' home farms and orchards is most sat- 
isfactory and encouraging. The bounteous profusion which we see 
around ua must fill our hearts with gratitude to the ''Lord of the 
Harvest," and strengthen our attachment to this greatly favored land. 
Nor can it fail to increase our interest in the development of our agri- 
cultural, horticultural and pastoral resources. 

Great changes have, indeed, taken place in the employment and 
pursuits of the people of this county during my residence here. This 
rare exhibition is, perhaps, for that reason, more interesting to me in 
many ways than to most of you who belong to the period of the re- 
naissance, so to speak; while I may be classed with the pioneers, a 
very select few who came a little in advance to gain the pleasure of 
welcoming you on your arrival to this land of fulfillment. We knew 
all the time that you would follow, although some of us were well- 
nigh out of patience at your delay. 

The principal pursuit of the people of this county, as well as of 
all this part of our State from the year 1852 till 1863 (as it had been 
long before), was the raising of neat cattle, horses and sheep. At 
all, or nearly all of the Missions there were flourishing orchards and 
vineyards, with acqueducts and ample water supply for irrigation. 
There were a few vineyards and some orchards in sheltered places here 
and there on some of the great ranchos, as these estates were 
called, where, some good wine was made and olives of excellent qual- 



SANTA EABBAKA COTXNTV. 



ity were preserved. Almost every rancho had also its fenced field 
where a little wheat, barley, corn, squashes and melons were raised 
for home use. 

In the town here, from the time I came till about 1869 or 1870, the 
vegetables consumed, for the most part, came to us by steamer once a 
week from San Francisco. 

The business of raising cattle in large herds in Southern Califor- 
nia may be said to have come to an end by the great drouth in the 
year 1864. Nearly all of the live stock perished in that year. Land 
without cattle was worthless, and many of the principal land owners 
were impoverished. 

Farmers, what few came in those early times, met with obstacles 
and difficulties which no longer exist. You can hardly realize how 
great they were. In a country over run by wild cattle and horses, no 
farming could be done without fences to protect the growing crops. 
Fencing was very expensive by reason of scarcity of material and cost 
of transportation. And then if more of a crop was raised than was 
wanted to supply the home demand, a loss was suffered by the exper- 
imental farmer; for the expense and difficulties of transportation cut 
off competition in other markets. And again, if the crop were grain, 
as soon as ripe in the field, a controversy would arise between the 
farmer and the squirrels to determine which party could get posses- 
sion of the most of it. In these contests the farmer generally got the 
worst of it, for he would spend about as much money and time in 
efforts to destroy the vermin, as his share of the crop was worth. 
Profitable crops and fruits could only be determined by continual 
and expensive experiments in this new land. 

Despite all these obstacles and difficulties it may be said that 
from about the year 1870 the farming and fruit interests began to 
develope and to merit recognition as a source of wealth; and notwith- 
standing some failures and discouragements, have continued to in- 
crease stealily till the present time. We see around us to-day the 
most assuring evidence of permanent success. 

The farming interest in this county now predominates over all 
others. 

I am enabled by the painstaking labor of a friend, to present a 

statement of farm products for the present year, based upon estimates 

of the year 1881, which may be accepted as approximately correct : 

Wheat, bushels, 950,000; acreage, 40,000 
Barley, " 67 " 25,000 

Oats, " 1200; " 75 

Corn, " 95,000; " 25,000 

Buckwheat, " 1,200; " n 

Peas, " 200; « 5 



Beans, bushels, 


100,000: 


acreage, 8,500 


Potatoes, tons.... 




450 


Sweet " " .... 


. 150; 


20 


Onions, bushels 


.. 175; 


% 


Hay, tons 


.. 2,000: 


" 5,500 


Flax, pounds 


275,000; 


300 



Our grain producing district lies in the northern part of the 
county, embracing the great valleys of Santa Ynez, Los Alamos, 
Lonrpoc, Santa Maria and Guadalupe. 



96 



SANTA BAKBAEA COUNTY. 



The wool, cattle and dairy interests stand next in rank in point 
of value, the sheep numbering about one hundred and fifty thousand, 
and the neat cattle not falling short of twenty thousand head, mostly 
in small bands and of approved breeds. 

Fruit and nut bearing trees may be fairly estimated to cover three 
thousand acres. Our rich and sheltered valleys afford ample space 
for fruit culture. The cannery and the fruit dryer assure large profits 
to the producer by reducing bulk and cost of transportation to other 
markets. • 

The cultivation of the walnut promises large returns to those 
who can afford to wait the growth and maturity of this valuable tree. 
In the very fertile and deep soil of the valley of "La Carpinteria," at 
"La Goleta," the "Dos Pueblos" and many parts of Montecito this 
nut tree, the olive, and many other fruit trees yield abundantly, and 
of the best quality, without irrigation. Indeed those valleys pro- 
duce a greater variety of excellent fruits than any locality with which 
I am acquainted; due, perhaps in part, to the adjacent protecting 
range of mountains. These places being almost exempt from frosts, 
many varieties of trees, the olive and citrus especially, are liable to 
be injured by insects and fruit pests of other and warmer climes. 
This impending danger must be warded off by the combined action 
and honest work of all fruit raisers; for all are equally interested. 
Some provision ought to be made for condemning and destroying, if 
need be, a neglected and hopelessly infected orchard, for the com- 
mon good, as all other nuisances are dealt with. The insect-devour- 
ing birds should be protected at all hazards, as they are the most con- 
stant and serviceable auxiliaries of the fruit raiser. 

I must claim the privilege of suggesting to those who are fortu- 
nate enough to possess a few acres of surplus land, the policy of 
planting out in angles and corners, and along the borders of your 
farms valuable timber trees, such for instance as the black walnut 
and hickory, which appear to thrive in our deep soils as well as in 
the lands east of the Mississippi. The hillsides, ravines and parcels 
of what seem waste land afford room for many valuable varieties of 
pine and other forest trees, giving beauty and value alike to the 
farm. 

With the coming of good farmers and fruit raisers, of course 
there came into existence these twin societies, so necessary to pro- 
mote these great industries in our own county, and by comparison 
and competition to advance the sarpe interests elsewhere in our 
State. In this way the experience of one farmer or fruit raiser in the 
choice of land, methods of cultivation, selection of crops and of fruit 
trees, comes to be multiplied indefinitely. And it seems to me that 
the collection of authentic statistics by your societies, of the products 
of our farms and orchards and vineyards, would prove of very great 
value. 



SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 97 

These annual competitive expositions create pride in and respect 
for the farm and for its varied employments. Agriculture and horti- 
culture do not admit of monopoly; and the competition, of the farmer 
is about the only one that does not engender strife or bitterness. 
Success of one does not imply defeat of some other competitor for the 
best products of the field. In other vocations men try to out- wit and 
get ahead of each other. The farmer must of course exercise good 
judgment in buying his land. Soils must be examined, exposures 
considered, means of transportation, and sanitary questions not over- 
looked. Poor land means a life of labor and a constant struggle with 
poverty. 

Quality rather than quantity of crop makes the successful 
farmer, in the long run. All must see how far these competitive ex- 
positions go to prove this proposition. All now look for the best of 
everything. The work of producing and harvesting a crop of bad, is 
as expensive as one of good quality; aud a prudent and wise farmer 
will content himself with being a producer, selling his crops season- 
ably, and never tempted to speculate in his own products, nor to 
compete with the grain merchants with whom he must always be at 
a disadvantage. He might as well try to control the rainfall as to at- 
tempt to fix the price of commodities in the great markets of the 
world. 

In this part of our State where the annual rainfall is often scanty, 
a stream of pure water, or some copious water supply is an element of 
great value to the farm and to the orchard. A field of alfalfa or mil- 
let is a mine of wealth to the farmer in a rainless year. By it he is 
enabled to keep in good condition farm stock that would perish with- 
out it. No farmer should be without a few head of very choice stock. 
It is the truest economy. The cost of raising a fine animal is no 
greater than an inferior one. The exhibit of well-bred stock here, 
shows that you appreciate this important fact. 

The manufacturing interests are great; the combined transporta- 
tion enterprises by land and sea are great; but the farming interests are 
yet greater than all, for all rest upon them. With what feverish anxiety 
does the world await the first reports from the harvest fields in this 
country. A few wet days, more or less, before harvest in England 
affect the price of grain all over the world. For if the crop is short 
there, it is known that English grain merchants must be in the market 
to buy enough to make up the deficiency. Indeed, of late years, 
England has relied upon us for her yearly supply of grain. Little 
did they think when the "May Flower" set her sails, that the history of 
Joseph and his brethren might again be repeated and gain a national 
significance. Much of our wheat finds its way to France and Ger- . 
many also. Our agricultural resources excite the greatest interest 
everywhere. As an evidence of this we have seen that in 1879 the 
British government sent a commission to this countrv to examine the 



08 



SANTA BAEBAEA COt'XTI', 



grain producing area, extent of supply and methods of production. 

The work has been accomplished and the report of the commis- 
sion is soon to be made public. It cannot fail to be as advantageous 
to us as to our customers across the sea. While with us it is a question 
what to do with our surplus, in England, and not infrequently in 
France and Germany, it is a more serious matter where to look for a 
supply. England and Germany have not land enough for the people. 
In England there is coal and iron in abundance, and multitudes of 
skilled workmen who must work day in and day out for bread. They 
can build ships cheaper than any other people, and have well nigh 
monopolized the carrying trade. The largest part of our surplus grain 
is taken yearly in their ships to foreign markets. 

We see that the British Isles, with their thirty-three millions of 
people, have but two and one-third acres of land to each inhabitant. 
It is not surprising that the ownership of land in that country should 
give social rank and influence. How best to cultivate these few acres, 
(exclusive of the great parks and forests of the. noblemen) to furnish 
the largest supply of bread and meat from year to year, is the vital 
question there. Hence agriculture is studied by some of the ablest 
men. It is there a question of chemistry, engineering and drainage, 
as well as of economy and finance. It is not of so much importance 
what the present crop is to be (as with us,) but the next and for future 
years. Our soils are rich and we do not heed the future. There they 
must restore annually — -pay back — something to make good the waste 
and restore the equilibrium of productive power. Some years ago it 
was stated upon undoubted authority, that the value of the animal 
manure yearly applied to the crops in England, at current prices, 
surpassed the whole amount of its foreign commerce. The land in 
that country is in the hands of a few persons, hence the rates of rent 
assume very much the same importance that the transportation ques- 
tion does in this country. 

The whole Jand of France is suffcient only to give its thirty-seven 
millions of people three and a half acres; while Germany, with for- 
ty-three millions, has but three acres to each person. All these coun- 
tries do not make up the area of the Mississippi valley, and their total 
populations might be thrust into that valley and Texas, and yet there 
would be room for more. The people cannot buy land in those coun- 
tries and hence they come to our new territories where lands can be 
had at low prices. And there can be no doubt that immigration to 
this country is favored by the English and German governments, as a 
temporary means of postponing and escaping the difficulties of the 
labor and land questions. The titled classes, controlling the State with 
a standing army, will not surrender to husbandry their parks and 
manors. 

Our population in 1880, was a little more than fifty millions. 
We had land enough then to afford fifty-eight acres to each inhabitant. 



SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 99 



Compare the aggregate wealth of those great nations with our 
own and the result is very much in our favor. In our country the 
total amount reaches forty-nine thousand seven hundred and seventy 
millions of dollars. 

Great Britain comes next with forty thousand millions. France 
and Germany follow, each with about ten per cent, less. 

In the United States there would be $995 to each person. In 
Great Britain 81,160 to each. 

The remuneration of labor in all these countries cannot be with- 
out interest to us. In this country, assuming the product of labor 
to be 100, seventy-two parts go to the laborer, twenty-three to capital 
and five to the Government in various forms. 

In Great Britain, fifty-six parts go to the laborer, twenty-one to 
capita! and twenty-three to the Government. 

In France, forty-one to the laborer, thirty-six to capital and 
twenty-three to the Government. In Germany the result is nearly 
the same. Sixteen per cent, more of the produce of labor goes to 
the laborer in this country than in England, and thirty-one more 
than in France and Germany. 

Everything that relates to the public lands, the common inheri- 
tance of all, and its disposition by Government, must be of great inter- 
est to farmers. And all must see that our national legislation, tend- 
ing to create monopolies in land, is a serious blunder. The grants by 
Congress to railroad corporations within the last twenty years, more 
than equal in area all of the New England States. And under the 
so-called "timber act" passed ostensibly to promote the growth of 
timber, nearly all of the accessible and valuable timber lands of our 
northwest coast have passed into the possession of a few mill owners 
by a scandalous abuse and perversion of the law, bad as it un- 
doubtedly is. 

This fine timber, the growth of ages, will shortly disappear by 
the steam saw mill, by waste and by fires. 

In the nature of things eveiy wrong and error, individual and na- 
tional, exact a penalty. As our population increases the demand for 
land will increase and it is certain we shall repent of the folly, al- 
though to avert the consequences may not be so easy. It is true that 
our laws of succession tend to favor the division of estates, offering a 
slow but peaceable remedy for the accumulation of land in individual 
cases, but they do not affect land-holding by corporations under con- 
gressional grants. 

It may be said that it is the purpose of the corporations to sell 
these lands; but it rarely happens that patents are applied for till set- 
tlement and improvement of adjoining sections sold by the govern- 
ment to farmers have created a demand for them, which the corporations 
take advantage of in fixing prices. And it is understood that no taxes 
are paid on these vast grants listed to the corporations till patents are 



100 



SANTA BAKBAEA CUtTNTT. 



issued by the Interior Department. These grants were and are feu- 
dalistic in tendency and productive of evils which the wisest Englisk 
statesmen are seeking to abate in Great Britain without a revolution. 

Our government is founded upon the theory of the greatest good 
of the greatest number, or to speak more accurately, the greatest good 
of all. "We have seen what has been accomplished bv it — obstructed 
as it has been in some of our great cities by what may not be inaptly 
called, untimely crowding from below. The remedy for this evil is to 
broaden the republic at the base by increasing the number of farm- 
ers who own the lands they cultivate and not by any system of agri- 
cultural serfdom, which is but a substitute for slavery. 

The owners of the lands of a country will ultimately shape its 
legislation and control its policy and destiny, and it is one of the hope- 
ful signs of the present day to see so many educated business men r 
and especially young men, buying lands to become farmers and fruit 
raisers. Tenure must be fixed and not subject to change. 

Ownership of land increases industry and desire to improve it, 
I suppose there never was a tenant who did not desire, in his heart, 
to acquire his landlord's title in some way. Ownership of lands in 
reasonably small parcels, by the farmers who have worked their acres 
is the secret of the marvelous growth of New York, Ohio, Illinois and 
the northwestern States. 

"Slavery," it is said, "has its lash," but no inducement to labor 
other than the ownership of property, has yet been devised by the 
wit of man. In commercial pursuits but few attain permanent suc- 
cess, even at the cost of life-long efforts. A large percentage fail 
outright. In manufacturing, laborers must be more or less a depen- 
dent class. Peace or war, the state of trade and commerce, public 
disaster, high or low tariff, business panics and the like, affect employ- 
ment, and make them necessarily dependent upon others for the 
means of support. And in cases of failure of employment the suffer- 
ing and want will be great in proportion to the numbers affected. The 
farmer, on the other hand, made secure by his own labor — the highest 
form of title — in the possession of the product of his own acres, must 
be regarded as the most fortunate and independent. 

In all ages there have been theorists and dreamers who have 
planned to put an end to poverty. But the farmer alone is the posses- 
sor of the secret. His own instructed labor, with the rains, the dews 
and the sunshine, have given it into his possession and-committed it 
to his keeping as long as he will. He has yet more. As a compensa- 
tion for his toil he has the infinite and pure pleasure of witnessing 
the mysterious birth and development of plants and trees in all their 
varied and beauteous forms. "The wild roses of the wood" breathe 
upon him, the apple blossoms and the- new-mown hay give him their 
matchless perfume, and the ripe fruits in their season furnish forth 
his table. 



SANTA BAKBARA COUNTY. 101 



Anions: the products of the soil, 
The fruits of free and honest toil. 
St. Barbara's wheat and wine and oil, 

What sliall a landless poet bring, 
Who has but heaps of heathen spoil 
For harvesting? 

The artist's dream of woodland grace 
Or memory of a lovely face; 
The maiden's web of filmy lace; 

The housewife's skill, the mysteries 
Of modern art, are all in place 
And safe tj please. 

The flower and fruit of every zone 
St. Barbara welcomes its her own. 
And her enthusiast sons have shown 

A courage in them lurk 
For greater victories to be won 
Through honest work. 

But we, who have no tenancies 

In golden grain or olive trees; 

No bouse norland; instead of these, 

In airy towers of fairy gold, 
We weave lint phantom tapestries 
Against the cold. 

< ) then, while farmers bring the spoil 

They gather from a fertile soil, 

si. Barbara's wheat and wine and oil; 

A landless poet can but bring 
A simple rhyme, not worth the toil 

Of harvesting! 

„ nn , Mary C. F. Hall- Wood. 

Nov. 9, 1881. 



X 



mi 



. _ n x •? r. i- 
o oo eo «o eo <n © 
ro i>^ cn cn co 



4 
I 
I 
4 

ft 



00 ID N M O ll 



:8 



IS 



(MONO • 
r-i i-i i-5 CO ; 



I 5 






9* 


99 


S9 


• • • U138K 


fffi 


89 


09 


• • • • oaa 


m 


99 


19 


■■■■aom 


85 


«q 


89 


V>o 


.59 


09 


99 


• • • ^das 


02, I 09 


99 


••••Sny 


99 09 


*9 


• • • •A'pif 


W> 


sq 


E9 


• • • aimf 


??9 


w 


T9 


aH»k 


8* 


£9 


19 


• • • \udy 


W 


89 


19 


• ' qD jtjh 


r-s 


89 


T9 


■■••■q^a 




S9 


09 


.. . • u13 f 


I « 




- 




PS 


N 






















g 




°» . 








w "-: 




£ 
















53 


ca 






■MVSJIfcMS J° 


oatn«a8dut9ji ba 


t;«a«ttmoo 



«+ CO CO iil • 

SO ia -r_ O ; 

' O " I 

,-.i- » iH JO 



C "M 71 C-l I- 



LT. C-! 30 X ~ 



O 3 3 ™ — » « 3 - S £ - 



• -69- • "OTtqo 'uo^u*o 

• "09 ' " ^1 'su'eai-io *^ a H 

'Zf' ok 'smuq-is 

■■eg .cmi'9tt l °a 

• :i% — uoujv 'sJ8t8[y 

■ -i)g • uoSaio '"Buo^sy 
„ I ■ • • ^luuung 
„ i •• ■■xBjioo 

„ ir-jpioqumH 
■ • •oospmujuus 
,, gzoiuannuoiss 

„ niw^wg^S 

, , f • • A*8.l3^UOK 

„ 6 *' aovpxnS 
„ f •••asof ores 
,,02" oSaia crag 

,, g 9J«[ni 

,. gx - "Branjt ,, 

99-3 s.iA' OT OAvqojO j[ 

ssqoui 

■ -n«jBwa , 

i jrtuiuv 3AiVB«amoo 



6lT-f 

- 

;9r«T 
IK' II 
6Z"9I 
SS'81 
It- 01 
09*6 

90*8 



u t* u C s* 
<b o a> <u « 

oo ooo 
o o o a o 
Niam^o 

1O00NMH 

* t-^ <jq CO CO 

Sh S-, !h £; « 

O O O O O 

lO CO OO <-j >£2 

O O "^ CO CO CO 
ifl O lO lO LO -# 



2 5 



.- ■ c5 >-. O 

|.2 5 * g 

| ffl o s ^ 
cj S P- 1 c aT es 

2 +3 00 § <B .S 

05 Q i-3 02 S Sq 




^ a I 



2 J 

i 3 

E - 

0) ^= 



-_ o % ^ 





n r ^ >. >j 






" 


° a -a S g 


t>. 


c 


|=lll 




3 f ^ o o 




c ^=-^ -^ 




- 








- 


"^ "^ =« i > 

c3o.S .E 


i 






d *» "j js. S 




5 »- t>-^3 




': "j a ■_,. . 
% % ? = £. c ' 







a 


* 53 . g C 


S 


S3 >,^ ^ t» 




Q ^P i" >» 




^ Q --«Q 




Ifm 



fc5«^ 



Q ,3 



5 


O O CO oo 
O 00 CO CO 


q 


-* iO vft «N 
O CO CO CO 




moo-* 

O CO CO CO 


S 


t~ t- ai co 


o 
-J2 


CO CM -* IT2 
J^ CO 00 CO 


i'c 

53 


(M H ■* l^ 
t~ 00 CO 00 


i-s 


COt- 0<N 

NNO0 0O 


S3 

5 


CO 00 CD rH 
CH>CC 00 




o r- oo oo 


-sj 


1 u'j 6 in « 

©NOOCO 

! 


- 





111! 



eS c3' 

BSoa 

■Sr=:2 * 



rt 


^r 


-'. 


j 


^ 








7J 




c 


i 


z 


3 


" 












- 




rt 


S 




^ 


V 


H 


£> 


A 




- 




^ 


'M 


.e 




■^ 


:- 

























W2 


; 


-= 




+^ 


3 




5 




> 


= 


5 


2 


48 



Latitude, 31° 26'; Longitude, 119° 43'. Height above the Sea, 30 feet. 
From. Ja nuary 1, 1883 to January 1, 1884, By Greo. P. TeTobetts. 



eo. [ 



April. 

ill 



May. 



Aug. 



OOOOlS!) 
02 15100 

63 79 61 



04 70,01 

0.572I01 

047261 



Sept.] 



57, 



i? <0 5i 
4o'7o5i 

50,08 54 



Nov. 



45:704 

55 74 5 

55 51.15 



Dec. 

Ill 



!'"' 50 

43;70|4S 

40 To 48 
4:i07 40 



Comparative Tempera 


triro. 


At Various Celebra 


e,l Health Hesorts, and 


otlier PI 


ices of Note: 






Win- 


Sp ,„. 


sun, 


Au- 


Dif. 








mel. 




Win. 


Fumhal, Madeira.... 


■ 


.14:55 





711 10 


8:10 


St. Michael, Azores. . . 




01:17 


il 5 


!;?■:« 


10:50 


.SantaOiuz,('an;iries... 


65 


IH:H1 


70-08 


74-17 


12:03 


STA. BARBARA.... 


J ■: 


50:45 


ii n 




13:42 


Nassau, Bahama Is. .. . 


70'07 


77-07 


16:00 


80:33 


15:33 


Han Diego, Cahf'rma.. 


54:00 


00:14 




14:03 


15:58 


I5if:l, on, Portugal.. .. 






71:00 




I8:mi 


Malta 


57:40 






Tie: 


20:74 


Algiers 


55:00 


86:00 


,,-m- 


10-00 


22:00 


St. Augustine, Fl'a. .. 
Rome, Italy 


58:25 


0S:00 


80:30 


n 90 


22:11 


18210 


5/-05 


,:': 10 


1: H. 


2.3:20 


Sacramento, Cal 


47 ■<>■> 


50.17 


,1:10 


0T7-> 


23:27 


Mentone 


40:50 


60:00 


73:00 


ifi:60 


25:50 


Nice, Italy 


47:88 


50:23 


,2:20 


01-03 


21:41 


New Orleans, La 


50:00 


00:37 


81:08 


ifl !() 


25:08 


Cairo, ligypt 


5S:52 


73:58 


80-10 


i 1 5 


20:58 


Jacks,, nville, Fl'da... 


55:0" 


68:8! 


8i-o:; 




20:01 


Pau, France 


tl:S(l 


54:00 








Florence, Italy 












San Antonio, Texas.. 




70:48 








Aiken. S. Carolina. . . 


15 '■. 


01 :32 


77:30 


61 96 


31 :54 


Fort Yuma, California 




7:1:41 


92-07 


75:00 


34:11 


Visalia, " 


(ft Si! 


59:41 




00-34 




Santa Fe, New Mexico 


10: ! 


,0:01 


70:50 


51 :34 


40 :22 


Boston, Mass 




45:01 


6 |j 


51:04 


40:00 


New York, N. Y 


31:9: 


1 !l 




1 :5i 


Hi:00 


Albuquerque, N.Mex. 


34:7! 


50:::i 


,0:25 


50:33 


41:40 


Denver, Colorado .... 


H7:nl 


5i .:. 


1 HI 


: II 


44:00 


St. Paul, Minnesota.... 


15-0! 


41 -2! 


,: !■()! 


:,.., 


52:04 


Minneapolis, Minn 


'•:•■ fi 


10:1 


68 1 


-: •: 


55:1!, 





;nest and Lowest Temperature, 
Jan. !. 1871, to Jan. 1, 1884. 



It 



tfl &|s| § 



1872 I 72 I 73 I 74 | 75 | 94 | 100 j 



1873 I 70 I 07 I 76 I 80 I ', 



'J__80J_72 I 10P 
I 81 I 79~ 



80 I 86 I 82 I 



74 I 70 I 00 I 70 I 78 I 78 I 82 | 



72 I 78 I 69 I 



,4 | 80JS0| 84 I 84 I 83 ; 



77 I 82 I 74 I 102 



76 I 80 I 84 I 94 I 84 | 



'I 75 I 

I 87 
I 80 I 



85 I 81 I 77 I 70 I 



|_52 |_r,0 I 
J 50 I 57 I 



60 I 54 I 48 j 40 I 40 I 40 



00 I 00 I 58 I 49 I 51 I 41 



58 1 61 I 50 I 50 I 46 I 40 



57 I 52 I 48 I 43 



5 4 I 58 I 59 1 
.50 I 59 I 60 I 



? 


"" ! 4 - 1 "' 1 4 " 1 ■>" 1 :, 2 1 58 | 61 | 58 


58 


40 j 49 [ 40 | 40 


~ 


18,8 |38 [ 41 140 ! 40 | 52 | 57 | 58 j 57 


50 


52 | 41 | 37 | 37 




1879 | 5s ! 39 | l-o | 50 | 52 | 54 [ 58 | 59 


!,:, 


50 | 42 | 33 | 33 




1880 | 35 | 50 [ :;:> | 40 j 51 | 52 , 53 | 54 


51 


41 [ 30 | 41 | 33 




1881 | 40 | 13 i 43 [ 40 | 52 | 55 j 57 | 55 


53 


45 | 30 | 30 | 30 




1 ! | £5 | 42 | J; j SO j i>,5 | 52 | riO 


50 


47 j 38 [ 58 - :;:.! 


_ 


1883 1 33 1 31 | 4, 1 44 | 50 | 52 | 50 | 55 1 


58 


47 | 41 | 40 | 31 


\v 


rage for January, 55.25. Average for July, 
01.43. Differenee between JHily and Jai 


08.15 


Yearly Average, 
15 degrees. 



jSTo. of Days the Temperature got .below 42° ox' above 83°. 



hays below 42 degree. 



Days above 82 degrees. 



v; 



s 74 



§75 



RAINFALL AT SANTA BARBARA, From Records of Dr. Shaw and G. P. Tebbetts. 



Year. 


08-09 


00-70 


70-71 


71-72 


72-73 


73-74 


74-75 


75-70 


70-77 


77-78 


78-7! 


79.80 


80 81 


S1-S2 


82-83 


55-84 


Mean 


Oct.. 




.30 


1.04 


.09 






1.01 








.35 


.44 


.17 


1 09 


87 


1.35; 


.48 


Nov. 


1.25 
4.26 


.05 
.57 


.27 
1.41 


1.83 

0.50 






1.30 


0.53 
.31 




1.41 

3.5a 


6.89 


1.93 
5.01 


.26 
9.5/4 


.40 
.90 


.10 






Dec. 


4.34 


.5.21 


3.25 


Jan.. 


3.2( 


.25 


.86 


2.53 


.58 


4 54 


14.84 


7.50 


3.04 


7.57 


1 88 


1 4" 


3 0" 


1 511 


" 18 




4.06 


Feb.. 


2.42 


5.87 


2.02 


1.81 


5.48 


3.17 


.18 


5.07 




1 55- 


.72 


11.51 


.3(1 


2 85 


:> 05 


10 07 


4 30 


Mar.. 




.83 


.02 


.18 


.05 




.38 


2.73 


.61 


" O.s 


,34 


1 :■> 


1 55 


6 85 


3. "7 






April 


.46 


.99 


2.02 


1.80 




.28 


.1(1 


.27 


.3!) 


3.34 


1.8C 


6.25 


.63 


2.8" 


33 


■'-02 


1.51 




. .2(1 


.74 


.37 






.14 






.45 




.3(1 








2,65 


.40; 




June 




.07 




.14 












.05 


.11 










1.75 


.15 


July 
























.07 




,0fi 






■01 


Aug. 





































Sept. 
























.11 








.... 


.01 


Total 


15.77 


LO 57 


8 91 


U 94 


LO 15 


14.44 


is. n 




1.49 


31. ■.' 


1! . 


55a, 




'.;..>.:. 


12517 


15.53' 


18.32 



Average annual rainfall for fifteen years, 17.31 inches. 



: " - " g g fe c3 : 2^« 

3 .« I '" so 2 .5! § S "S ^ *> 



{888 |: 



l« 



H«<!g>ih<!KO?lQ 



u'ny Da 


Reno i 
s, conflni 


•a n>. 

igthe 


one Ye: 

valid could b 

n!,y of which 

ovalid to the 

ivalid to the 


out of dc 

valid cm! 
louse all 


L>. Bradley, of Aui 

us five or six hours, with safe 
1 be out of doors an hour at' a 

ay:::...:.::.:.v...:.i.:::.:.::::::: 


ora, 111. 

ty and comf 


an Invalid. 

time? in each day.. . 


... 310 

.. 29 

'. '. 10 
.. 5 


Comparative Mean Temperature of the Sir Coldes 
Months. 

So >iia Barbara 56.55 

City of Mexico 50.03 Or .52 colder. 

Lisbon, Portugal 54.70 or 1.85 colder. 

San Remo, Italy, 53.80 or 2.75 colder. 

Mentone, France 53.21 or 5.31 colder. 

Nice, Italy 48.45 or 8.10 colder. 



Comparative Relative Humidity- Saturation being lOO. 



irbara f Philadelphia. 

men- I Oakland, Cal. 

j New Orleans. 



March 


April. 


May. 


June. 


July. 


Aug. 


Sept. 


Oct. 


Nov. 


Dee. 


Year 


76 


65 


61 


68 


73 


72 


76 


75 


65 


64 


69.V 


78 


70',- 


75* 


78 


77 


81* 


82 


79J 


80* 


85 




m 


85 


81 


80 


86 


84 


84 


86 


80 


m 


83* 


83 


83 


84 


81 


82 


87 


85 


80 


84 


82 


83* 



I 




Goodall, Perkins & Co., 

San Francisco, Cal. 



Distances South of San Francisco : 



San Francisco (82 

7!4I'oint LODOS 174% 

19 "Point Pedro lii'i " 

26 Pillar Point 156 

in Pigeon Point 138 

51 Point New Year in 

70 Santa Cruz 112 

85 Monterey 897 

ss Point Cypress 394 

i"l Point sui' 

180 Cape San Martin :{4l> 

154 Piedras Blancaa 328 

nil) San Simeon 822 

166 Lefflngwells 816 

180 Cayucos :!<>•-> 

l sr, Mon-o 2!t: 

193 Point P.ouchon 289 



201 Port Harford 281 

217 Poinl sal i.M;r, 

236 Point Arguello 246 

248 Point Concepcion 234 

280 Gaviota 222 

- \NTA BARBARA 194 

296 Carpinteria 1st; 

.'ill Ventura 1.1 

3tl Hueneme nil 

344 Point Duma 138 

::iil Santa Monica 121 

:;77 Point Vincent 105 

- .11 Pedro 95 

396 Anaheim Si! 

17.") Point Loniil 7 

isj San Diego u 



FARE : 

San Francisco to Santa Barbara ; Cabin, $10; Steerage, $7.50 



steamers Eureka and Los Angeles, sailing every five days, alternately, will 
go as far South as Ventura, returning on schedule time for San Francisco, call- 
ing at Gaviota, Porl Harford, San Simeon. Cayucoa. Monterey and Banta Cruz. 
When sufficient freight is offered, freight steamers will call at Goleta and Car- 
pinteria. Steamers Orizaba and Santa Rosa, Bailing every five days, alternate- 
ly, will go as far south as san Diego and return on schedule lime. Freight 
steamers carrying combustibles, etc., leave San Francisco every week for the 
Southern Coast. For tickets and staterooms apply at the( >fflce /Telegraph Build- 
ing, State St., Santa Barbara, Cal. Plan of Steamers at Agent's Office. 

J. A. XORCKOSS. Ticket Ageujt. 

JOHN P. STEARNS, Local Freight Ag't, 

Stearns' Wharf. 



X 

o 

H 

q 

z 

■ r 

■ r 

lo 

D 




